Engine build ponders

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Chalkie

Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

Evening chaps

Sending my engine for an overbore next week

now I have a few questions about it

should I get the block drilled and tapped out to 5/16ths?

Get them to fit cam bearings or do it myself

also its using an A+ Block as my a series is sleeved and no good for performance use
should i run megajolt or run a swiftune dizzy?

thanks
Steve
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by wantafaster1 »

I'm told that the 5/16 conversion isn't necessary with a thick flange block.

I've just done cam bearings myself and it really wasn't a problem, but I did make top hats to go inside the new bearings. I have to say that I did give them a bit of a tap to get them started square but they pulled in easily with some stud bar.
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Nick W »

I'd get your engine shop to do the cam bearings , I screwed up trying to fit mine! .
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rich@minispares.com
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by rich@minispares.com »

Drilling it 5/16 is a waste of time unless your building some huge stroke 1460 that's really going to tug the block around. Its also a huge pain to bolt a 5/16 block to a gearbox unless you use caphead screws as you can only get about half a turn of a flat each time so it takes forever to do the nuts/bolts up (if you use normal ones)

Verdict:- pain in the arse!
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by LarryLebel »

There's more to it than just installing the cam bearings. They also have to be reamed to size which I'm guessing you can't do.
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by CooperTune »

I install my own cam bearings but did go to the trouble of making a kit from 1/2 inch all thread and alloy plugs. I can either tap them in or pull with the threaded rod. Not since 1969 have I seen a cam bearing that needed reaming to size after install. They are all sized now. I use 5/16 allen caps grade 8 for race units that turn big revs. For street I use 1/4 grade 8 allen caps with high collar locs and SAE flats. If you do go 5/16 you will need to drill the tranny case to clear. Steve (CTR)
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

Thanks so ill take off doing 5/16th convertsion then

but gonna be running around 50-60bhp depends what clutch plate would you lot reakoment as having everything balanced aswell

thanks
Steve
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by mk1 »

should I get the block drilled and tapped out to 5/16ths?
NO, Total waste of time & a pain in the arse too.

Get them to fit cam bearings or do it myself
Get them fitted by your engine shop then they can hone them to size.

also its using an A+ Block as my a series is sleeved and no good for performance use
should i run megajolt or run a swiftune dizzy?
Don't know. I have no experience of either.

gonna be running around 50-60bhp depends what clutch plate would you lot reakoment
Use a "Rally" Orange diaphragm, a good all rounder. A standard plate should be fine.

as having everything balanced aswell
Definately get the whole lot balanced.
Chalkie

Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

Orange rally plate isn't gonna make my thrust bearings shit them selfs is it?

thanks mark Ive been looking at the CSI dizzy my a series dizzy got nicked and never had an A plus one
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Spider »

Personally, I only ever like to run with the diaphragm that will get the job done and no more.

Given your anticipated HPs, a stock Blue Cooper S one I'd say would be fine.
Chalkie

Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

Nice one thanks

Last question then having everything balanced will they need my pressure plate and clutch plate or can I get away with sending fly wheel backing plate crank and that?
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by rich@minispares.com »

best to send it all

they certainly need the pressure plate as it bolts to the crank

the clutch disc isn't that important as it moves independently, so doesn't affect anything
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by mk1 »

A Blue would probably be fine, but an Orange one will certainly not have any detrimental effect. It's only marginally stiffer than the standard one.
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

ill order an orange as I can't find a Blue on Minispares

and then send it all in as one lot


just pulley now to sort i got 4 of em just witch one to use
Chalkie

Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

what about pulleys


getting it all balanced whats rekonmaneded ?

I will be superchargering after ive ran the engine in

thanks
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Dave Osborne »

Hi need some help new to engine builds
Just purchased a block
Bored and new pistons plus 60
1330
But the camshaft marking is one raised ring
Is the cam ok for good performance

Also looking at carbs single hif 44

Cheers
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Vegard »

I agree. I've used blue diaphragms on 1400, 286 engines. That did almost work :lol:

No small bore should ever be fitted with an orange diaphragm. Sorry Mark 8-)
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by mk1 »

But the camshaft marking is one raised ring
Is the cam ok for good performance.

NO, its probably a standard A+ cam

Must disagree re the orange Diaphragm on a 998, I know that the thrusts are a bit narrower than on an S or 1300, but particularly if Chalkie is thinking about supercharging it will be better than a standard one.

Wil Ker uses a GREY on on his Turbo 998 & has not had issues with thrusts collapsing.
Chalkie

Re: Engine build ponders

Post by Chalkie »

mk1 wrote:But the camshaft marking is one raised ring
Is the cam ok for good performance.

NO, its probably a standard A+ cam

Must disagree re the orange Diaphragm on a 998, I know that the thrusts are a bit narrower than on an S or 1300, but particularly if Chalkie is thinking about supercharging it will be better than a standard one.

Wil Ker uses a GREY on on his Turbo 998 & has not had issues with thrusts collapsing.

Cause he has a lighter flywheel set up on it

dropped the block off at the shop so hopefully it be ready to rock and roll soon need to get ordering up bits to get everything balanced
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Re: Engine build ponders

Post by mk1 »

The weight of the flywheel will have no effect whatsoever. The issue is the clamping force placed on the thrust bearings by the clutch diaphragm spring this is unaltered regardless of the flywheel weight.
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