Bumpers and fixings
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
Not sure if best, but I used a stainless spring washer and stainless nut. Seems ok so far, if your hole is bigger you could use a larger washer and either nylon nut or a spring washer with nut,
- Peter Laidler
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
I did what Daz did....., sort of! Stainless steel washer each side of the lip and then a nylock nut. I used a stainless washer between the bumper and the lip to slightly lift the bumper away from the lip/car body and to allow 1mm or so of drainage. Did exactly the same to my brand new RCSport-5 the day I got it too
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
Bumpers are usually tight to hinges on the back, especially repro ones so a washer on top may be an issue, not tried it though.
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
Not OE .. i cut a thin bit of rubber type material to become thin flexable washer ( cut up bike inner tube )..slosh some body wax in the area and squash this extra item in-between the upper body bumper flange & the underside face of the Bumper.. located in the area of each clamp bolt contact .. my reason is to protect the paint from damage with the Bumper bolted down .. works for me. 

- snoopy64
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
Thanks for the tips, I’ve got a set of NOS bumpers so I’m going to give the rubber washer a go... will let you know how it goes and if I can get a drainage gap in then that would be ideal!
Cheers
Kevin
Kevin
- Nick W
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
Before paint it's best to bend the bumper mounting panel down slightly, as otherwise the boot hinge often catches the bumper. I noticed unrestored minis with the ledge bent down cause of this. Also don't think a washer on top is an option.
Up North in Sheffield
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Bumpers and fixings
I also find that if you have repro 3 bolt bumpers drilling them to put the extra two bolts in allows them to be pulled down better, I have some used 5 bolt original bumpers on mine but the lip is bent slightly down as mentioned.