Mk1 restoration-race car to road car

[Matty]

Here's the start of my MK1 rebiuld. The plan is to put it back on the road with an 850 engine completely standard spec.

It has been patched from top to bottom, nearly every panel need replacing but it will be a challenge and be completely rot free when im finished with it.

Plans are to:
finish fixing bulkhead
Replace roof
replace complete floor
Replace quarters
replace boot floor,rear arches, rear bulkhead
replace inner wings/ inner A panels
Replace front end

Its pretty much a DIY heritage shell. lol Any way pics...

[Matty]

What lies beneath the stuck on roof skin.





LOTS of grinding later!











I welded it every 15-20mm in the end. Im having a nightmare trying to find somewhere local that sells tiger seal to seal it all up though!

[Matty]

Next job is to replace the floor. Ive knocked together some brackets to locate the new boot floor, when its ready to go in. Im going to make some similar brackets up for the heel board to help locate the new floor. Has anyone changed a floor, and got any tips that could save things from going horribly wrong?

[nunecos]

Well done. It is much more common to see the opposite resto: From road car to race... Unfortunately have no idea how to help you with the floors...

[Mini4Ever]

Has anyone changed a floor, and got any tips that could save things from going horribly wrong?

It can be done, even without any temporal brackets: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=81&start=0

[Matty]

Nice build!

Did you brace the car at all when you removed the floor?

How did you go about lining it up? Did you just go with what looks right/fits?

[InimiaD]

I used SOUDAFLEX Polyurethane sealer instead of Tiger Seal to re-skin my doors.
Works a treat.

[JC T ONE]

Hi

Nice project, its the first time I see some one that will "detune" a Cooper.

Most people upgrade them, but you will go for some thing different

Good that you save it, and good luck with the rebuilt.


Jens Christian

[Matty]

Thanks for all the comments.
My floor should be arriving tomorrow, so I can get cutting.

JC T ONE - What makes you think it was originally a cooper? The whole reason im building this one is to keep it 'reliable', my other mini has pretty much had everything done on it in the tuning front. I spend the majority of my time replacing broken parts!

[Matty]

A bit more progress today...Added the drip rail to the roof and etch primer inside and out.





Made a frame up to jig where the rear subby goes and to support the shell whilst I remove the floor.











Out with the old in with the new! Now comes the boring grinding back of welds.

[GTEm]

Matty.. you are probably the crazyest man I never saw.... but sometimes the madness has something good

Good luck !!!!

[medwaybeat]

Nice work Matty! So is that the complete M-Machine floor? What’s your take on it and is it coated in anything to stop it rusting? It’s the job I’ve been putting off for the last 5 years.

[JC T ONE]

JC T ONE - What makes you think it was originally a cooper?

Hi Matty,

Thou shall not think - thou shall know
your car is atleast a Cooper, as it has genuine boot board brackets, sitting on the rear firewall,
its clear on your photos, to see the original spot welds on the cabin side.
So dont touch those, as these welds are hard to dublicate.
full remarks on your resto project from me


Jens Christian

[Matty]

Nice work Matty! So is that the complete M-Machine floor? What’s your take on it and is it coated in anything to stop it rusting? It’s the job I’ve been putting off for the last 5 years.

Yeah its a complete M-Machine floor, and the quality looks really good. I'll let you know what the fitment is like in a couple of weeks (hopefully). Its just in plain metal as it was 10% cheaper, im going to etch prime and prime in 2k myself.

JC T ONE - What makes you think it was originally a cooper?

Hi Matty,

Thou shall not think - thou shall know
your car is atleast a Cooper, as it has genuine boot board brackets, sitting on the rear firewall,
its clear on your photos, to see the original spot welds on the cabin side.
So dont touch those, as these welds are hard to dublicate.
full remarks on your resto project from me


Jens Christian

The only thing is, it doesn't have twin tanks? Im guessing they are to do with holding the tanks in aren't they? Did they fit the brackets without having twin tanks?

[JC T ONE]

The only thing is, it doesn't have twin tanks? Im guessing they are to do with holding the tanks in aren't they? Did they fit the brackets without having twin tanks?

Hello again, these are the brackets for the "upper" carpet covered boot floor, that was a Cooper / S / 1275GT(MK I) item only.
I cant say if your car is a S or not? as the S came with, or without RH tank upto 1966.
but its atleast a Cooper

Jens Christian

[Matty]

Ah that makes sense, thanks for clearing that up...sorry im new to all the differnces in mk1's.

Looks like the rear brackets are still available, so I may have to add some on with the new boot floor. Im guessing the boot boards them selves are like hens teeth to get hold of?

[JC T ONE]

Ah that makes sense, thanks for clearing that up...sorry im new to all the differnces in mk1's.

Looks like the rear brackets are still available, so I may have to add some on with the new boot floor. Im guessing the boot boards them selves are like hens teeth to get hold of?

No no, you can get the complete kit from Newton, incl a new board, in all colours
I have one, and its very nice, and well made they make both sizes, one tank or two fueltanks

keep posting pics.

J C

[Mike]

Matty,

That shell belonged to me, was an original 1966 Cooper but had been turned into a Mighty Minis racer when I bought it. I was offered, ironicaly, a Cooper S shell that was in far better condition so re-built the car into that (the shell went to Guru's brother and I saw it on eBay sometime later). It is now the 8 port we race and carries the Cooper registration number originally on your shell.

PM me with a contact number.

Mike

[Matty]

Ive made some progress with the floor. The bulkhead is repaired, all welds ground back, offered it up and all was good until i looked at the last side!















Here's the problem!!!!!!!!!!

The step looks original, but at some point the A panel has been repaired (using 12mm worth of filler). Where's the best place to cut to bring the step back in line? The inner and outer A's will be replaced just not to sure where/how they join the step panel?

Ive measure my other shells and they measure 1270mm from lip to lip width ways and this shell measures 1280mm (so 10mm out).

EDIT: it is only 10mm out at the front and taper back in about 12" to the right width.





This looks like a previous repair?

[IAIN]

I think you said that the new floor is a M machine made part. I would trust it as correct. The outer sill lip that joins the door step will give you a referance to the width. The new inner sill could well have been pushed about and not be correct.
The inner sill will run in at the front slightly.
If you are fitting new inner and outer A panels and door step that will sort out the old bad repair ?