Driveshaft outputs

[rolesyboy]

I’ve got boxes of driveshaft outputs and a good number of them have corroded/pitted machined surfaces. Some are reasonable. I will need a few sets for my cars. Are they salvageable or simply scrap?
Wondered if you can skim the machined surface up or will it become too baggy on the seal. Is there an acceptable tolerance ?
Thanks.

[imack]

Never tried them, but Speedi Sleeves get good reviews.

[Peter Laidler]

It all depends on how badly corroded the oil seal bearing part of the output really is. Any corrosion MIGHT cause an oil drip but being pliable rubber, generally a decent oil seal will cater for slight imperfections. Depending on what I saw and being all in favour of saving the old/original bearing surface area rather than spending on new I might grind a gnats knacker of material at the oil seal That'll cure the problem.

But there's more than that. What's the surface like where it enter the bearing. That could be a problem

Would appreciate others views here as it'd be a shame to bin otherwise good drive outputs, especially S/automatic types. Any views 1071Bob?

[rolesyboy]

Thanks folks. Peter I guessed there would be some wiggle room in reducing the diameter slightly. I guess the question is by how much? I have several sets of Hardy spicers too.

[Peter Laidler]

Interesting question that I thought long and hard about yesterday..... My guess Roly would be that the spring loaded rubber flange on modern oil seals would easily cater for/cope with a .010" reduction in that surface. It's not as if the oil is under any sort of pressure - beyond gravity and maybe a bit of surge! Like I said, this is a question that the true machine maestros like Bob and Spider Chris could answer fully.

The saving grace is that the absolute accurate concentricity of any grinding of the oil seal surface area is guaranteed right from the word go.

Bob, Spider....., other machine maestros?

On the other hand, others, where money is no object, might say to just bin them and buy new!

[Rusty old S]

I have with success turned down knackered S out puts to fit smaller 850 type alloy seal holders. Push a new bearing, turn output to size.

[rolesyboy]

Thanks Rusty. Sorry but I don't follow you. When you say alloy seal holders do you mean 850 diff side covers?
Cheers. Mark

[CooperTune]

I spent the time to paint strip, remove seals and bushings, glass bead, press in bushings and align hone all my yoke and pot joint diff side covers. I don't have nearly as many HS side covers but have a bucket of them waiting for me to find the time and need. I also have a set of HS posi output shafts that are turned to work with yoke and pot type side covers. My std HS output flanges are worn, setting up in crank grinder is and option but not sure how much meat there is in new HS bushings once installed yet. Whether or not these solutions are cost effective depend on if you are paying or doing yourself. Steve (CTR)

[Rusty old S]

Yes Mark, the 850 type side covers it works as I have done it ample meat on output. If you buy the converters from Swiftune for ATB diff you use 850 side overs anyway

[Spider]

I've been giving this some thought since I saw the thread the other day.

I think as suggested by imack, a Speedi-Sleave or similar would be the most economical fix / best result here, but be sure to seal the sleeve to the shaft or it will likely leak. Press fitting alone is unlikely enough to get a good seal here.