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I have a '64 mk1 with a pre verto clutch on a 1275a+. I currently have the engine out of the car- due to having one of the puller holes stripped of threads.

I've drilled and helicoiled all three of the puller holes, as the threads were all... somewhat messed up.

I'm using this puller.


I have sprayed the flywheel center with penetrating oil, and had it under pressure, tried tapping the center bolt... applied a little more pressure... one of the bolts pulled loose again. Ugh.

I've tried everything.

What's my last resort gentlemen?

Barring getting it to pull- is cutting it off my next move? If so- how to proceed?

Puller on and done up and then heat it up.

Exactly as above. Playing the torch in a circle about 1" - 1.5" from the crank = heat distributed equally on the flywheel.

Don't forget that contrary to you might think in situations like this, the flywheel can only expand OUTWARDS, away from the crank

Even a kettle full of boiling water dumped over the flywheel can do the trick if the tension is wound up. I’ve used this trick when the engine is still in the car. Take the diaphragm spring off first so you can get the heat to the flywheel.

D

That's not the best puller. I have an old Sykes Pickavant which has a much larger and finer thread in the centre. I can also fit an hydraulic puller if needed. Here's one on ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275299684464 ... R_qn9KHhYA

This is a similar heavy duty unit and are usually available.
http://www.guess-works.com/Shop/Parts/d ... htm?id=501
f you were nearer I'd happily let you use it. If all else fails, people have taken an angle grinder to the flywheel.

This thread from TMF might help. It's suggested by Spider to not helicoil the stripped threads but re-drill and tap new threads.
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... %20removal

My method is to apply the full amount of available Pull with the Pulling Kit .. Then take a Drift and Lump Hammer & give a Solid Hit direct onto the back of Flywheel through the Starter Motor Hole .. the Drift needs to be of a material that will not damage the Starter Ring .. i have never had to resort to applying any Heat or take a grinder to the many engines i have had to treat in this way.

I had a similar problem years ago. I eventually got it off by using a hydraulic puller (from KAD). I put the puller on and had it at its max, then I took the starter off and by using two sledge hammers and by turning the engine over, I hit the hammer in situ with the other hammer. Took a lot of hammering, but eventually it came off, actually it came off and flew 6 feet across the garage, so be careful! Good luck.

Oneball wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 4:21 pm Puller on and done up and then heat it up.

+1

Appreciate the responses.
I'll update as it goes.

Wish me luck.

Another plus 1 for the heat, though in one of my cases it was only later that night it actually popped off. I had an old duvet there to catch it, which caused a few laughs as I said I didn't wish to wake anyone.

6ft is not an exaggeration. Put a chain across the front of the flywheel just in case.

Or just refit 3 or 4 of the wok bolts with large washers on them

Another for watching out. I took one off outside the car and was standing in front of it. Only some fancy footwork in the nick of time saved me from a cracked shin!

Got it off!
I left it over nite after applying some heat to it.
Went out this afternoon and it was still in place.
Tapped the center bolt several times, and went around the flywheel with a hammer- just giving it some taps to... "shock" it.

It popped loose nicely, moving about an inch or so? Much to my delight.

I have no image hosting... or I'd post pictures of the crank taper- with a little bit of metal galling on it. I plan to polish it some, and lap the surfaces before going back together.

Question- would it be a wise idea to coat the taper with some anti-sieze compound before re-assembly?

No, lap it and clean it completely. Heat will use it as a bonding agent.

Thank you sir!
Was a worry, and a thought.

Joel Welsh 4769VU wrote: ↑Mon Sep 05, 2022 8:41 pm ,,,,, I'd post pictures of the crank taper- with a little bit of metal galling on it. I plan to polish it some, and lap the surfaces before going back together.

Question- would it be a wise idea to coat the taper with some anti-sieze compound before re-assembly?

The 'secret' I found to getting flywheels off is to fit them tight in the first place.

As you've found here, when they aren't on tight, they fret on the crank, then they are very hard to get off, often resulting in some damage to the crank taper.

I found the best way to get them on tight is to lap them together with a fine grinding paste. On some flywheels, I'll put them up in the lathe and the very end of the small end, I'll relieve as after they have been lapped a few times, they will get a step here that will stop the flywheel going on properly. I just turn that last 4 - 5 mm of the taper, parallel.

When it comes time to fit them on, I put a very light lick of 3-in-1 oil to the taper, then heave down on the bolt as hard as I can, it would be around 200 ft /lb. The Oil helps the flywheel slip down the taper, but then under the extreme pressure that developed, the oil film breaks down and they lock together on the taper. I wouldn't suggest using anything 'heavy' to lubricate here or there'll just be next to no locking occurring. It's the locking of the flywheel on that taper, and nothing else, that gets the drive from the Crank to the Clutch (and in to the Gearbox).

I do have a Hydraulic Puller for removing them, none of the screw types can make the power needed.

So, just an update!

Thanks all for the advice and help with my clutch.
Today I've re-installed the driveshafts and suspension components.

She's supporting her own weight, and since the motor turns when I move the car in gear- the clutch is engaging!

I have to rebuild the carbs and get a proper fuel pump yet- so it's as good as it gets til she's running.

Please ignore my messy garage. Lol...

Joel Welsh 4769VU wrote: ↑Mon Sep 05, 2022 8:41 pm
I have no image hosting... or I'd post pictures of the crank taper- with a little bit of metal galling on it. I plan to polish it some, and lap the surfaces before going back together.

This website hosts pictures. Keep them under 500K.