Brakes needs to pump
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- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 281
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- Location: Mexico City
Brakes needs to pump
Hello everyone
I’m having a little problem with the brakes. In order to make them work properly I have to pump the pedal twice everytime to build some pressure and the make the car brake.
Earlier today I tried to take the air out by using the valves on each wheel but this process didnt work
Any sugestions please?
I’m having a little problem with the brakes. In order to make them work properly I have to pump the pedal twice everytime to build some pressure and the make the car brake.
Earlier today I tried to take the air out by using the valves on each wheel but this process didnt work
Any sugestions please?
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
A couple of things to check
rear brake adjustment and have you got the correct bore rear cylinders and master cylinder for your set up,
rear brake adjustment and have you got the correct bore rear cylinders and master cylinder for your set up,
Re: Brakes needs to pump
Also check your rubber hoses, especially the front ones. Get someone to pump the brake pedal as you wrap your hand around a hose, if it throbs, its expanding and needs replacing. The front one under the rad is the worst to change! Good luck!
- Joel Welsh 4769VU
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Without knowing anything about your mechanical experience-
Exactly how did you take the air out?
There is a process, and without a... special tool, it is impossible to do by yourself.
Just opening the "valves" or bleeder screws as they're called, won't work. Yes, you can "gravity bleed" certain cars. But newer models- not so much.
Have you bled brakes before?
Are your brakes disc front/drum rear, all disc's, all drums?
It makes a difference in the process, and adjustment requirements before bleeding.
Are the shoes/pads in good shape? Thick, not worn down?
Exactly how did you take the air out?
There is a process, and without a... special tool, it is impossible to do by yourself.
Just opening the "valves" or bleeder screws as they're called, won't work. Yes, you can "gravity bleed" certain cars. But newer models- not so much.
Have you bled brakes before?
Are your brakes disc front/drum rear, all disc's, all drums?
It makes a difference in the process, and adjustment requirements before bleeding.
Are the shoes/pads in good shape? Thick, not worn down?
Wauseon, Ohio- United States
1964 mk1 Austin Cooper "Dianna"
Tartan red and black
I can't take credit for what others built- all I can do is try to put her back on the road.
You just can't fix stupid... you can hide it sometimes though...
1964 mk1 Austin Cooper "Dianna"
Tartan red and black
I can't take credit for what others built- all I can do is try to put her back on the road.

You just can't fix stupid... you can hide it sometimes though...

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- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:31 am
- Location: Mexico City
Re: Brakes needs to pump
Thanx for all the answers, the brakes actually were in need of a major service, mainly they were pretty worn out.
thanx
thanx
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- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:31 am
- Location: Mexico City
Re: Brakes needs to pump
So I took the mini to a shop for a bleeding, and things just got worst. Iniatially the car could brake fairly well it just needed a premptetive pump everytime, so I tried to bleed it myself but It just remian the same. In my pontless attempt the fluid came out form all 4 wheels.
Now I just got back from the shop and they say that when they tried to bleed it with proper tools the fluid never came out of the front wheels (thou they it did when I did it myself) and now the brake is just non existance, the pedal has no pressure at all and they say It probably need a new brake pump, I guess they mean the servo, but wonder if in the meantime there is anything I could do to make it work like before again because otherwise it is just undriveable.
Is there any kit to repair a mk1 servo?
thanx
Now I just got back from the shop and they say that when they tried to bleed it with proper tools the fluid never came out of the front wheels (thou they it did when I did it myself) and now the brake is just non existance, the pedal has no pressure at all and they say It probably need a new brake pump, I guess they mean the servo, but wonder if in the meantime there is anything I could do to make it work like before again because otherwise it is just undriveable.
Is there any kit to repair a mk1 servo?
thanx
- johnv
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Is it a remote servo? If so just take it out of the system for now ( you need to make up 1 brake pipe) and get it reconditioned
Mk2 1968 Cooper 998 TPL555F
Mk1 1965 Cooper 1275 BFC110C
Moke out of boxes and built NDV100F
Mk1 1965 Cooper 1275 BFC110C
Moke out of boxes and built NDV100F
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- Basic 850
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... a0JjQLRNQL
This video on you tube is not perfect but does show how to bleed the brakes on a classic mini with front disc brakes but no servo.
You need 2 people. One in the car , usually the wife , following the up and down commands from the person with the bleeding spanner who opens and closes the nipples.
Top up the fluid every 6 pumps. Do 12 pumps for each wheel.
Having the back of the car jacked up really high helps.
Clearly the garage you went to did not know what they were doing.
But I guess minis are rare in Mexico.
This video on you tube is not perfect but does show how to bleed the brakes on a classic mini with front disc brakes but no servo.
You need 2 people. One in the car , usually the wife , following the up and down commands from the person with the bleeding spanner who opens and closes the nipples.
Top up the fluid every 6 pumps. Do 12 pumps for each wheel.
Having the back of the car jacked up really high helps.
Clearly the garage you went to did not know what they were doing.
But I guess minis are rare in Mexico.
- Pete
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Some very iffy servos going around, I’d take it off unless you really need one. I faffed around for ages bleeding the brakes from every orifice before taking mine off (reconditioned one) and problem solved solved instantly.
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- Basic 850
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Post up some photos of the brake system in engine bay please. Have you got front discs ?
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- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 281
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Ok, well i guess the brakes system is the original one for a mk1, they could not find any brake pump so I guess no servo, if it had one where should it be and could you see it in the engine bay?
- johnv
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
That bit
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Mk2 1968 Cooper 998 TPL555F
Mk1 1965 Cooper 1275 BFC110C
Moke out of boxes and built NDV100F
Mk1 1965 Cooper 1275 BFC110C
Moke out of boxes and built NDV100F
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- Site Admin
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
It sounds to me that someone has messed up Royally!
If you car has a "standard" single line system & there is no fluid coming out when it is bled then it needs some fluid adding first!
Use the Youtube clip above to get some idea & take it from there.
There is a slim possibility that the master cylinder is faulty, but I bet it just needs some fluid.
Start from the basics, get all the brakes, including the handbrake adjusted up correctly, use the workshop manual here to help. It covers all the major models & systems.
https://mk1-performance-conversions.co. ... _lists.htm
Once you know that everything is adjusted correctly, then add fluid to the master cylinder, this is on the front bulkhead under the bonnet, then start bleeding. Do them one at a time, with one person pumping the pedal & one person opening & closing the bleed nipple. You'll get the "Down, back" rhythm going pretty quick. Once clear un bubbly fluid is coming out of the first bleed nipple, move on to the second, repeat the process, then onto the 3rd, then the 4th. Once there is no more air coming out of the bleed nipples the system should be working normally. Remember to keep topping the master cylinder up with brake fluid every 10 or so pumps of the pedal. It usually takes about 1 litre of fluid to clear a system with air in it.
If you fail to get fluid at the bleed nipple then you have a more serious problem like a broken pipe or faulty master cylinder.
Hope this helps.
M
If you car has a "standard" single line system & there is no fluid coming out when it is bled then it needs some fluid adding first!
Use the Youtube clip above to get some idea & take it from there.
There is a slim possibility that the master cylinder is faulty, but I bet it just needs some fluid.
Start from the basics, get all the brakes, including the handbrake adjusted up correctly, use the workshop manual here to help. It covers all the major models & systems.
https://mk1-performance-conversions.co. ... _lists.htm
Once you know that everything is adjusted correctly, then add fluid to the master cylinder, this is on the front bulkhead under the bonnet, then start bleeding. Do them one at a time, with one person pumping the pedal & one person opening & closing the bleed nipple. You'll get the "Down, back" rhythm going pretty quick. Once clear un bubbly fluid is coming out of the first bleed nipple, move on to the second, repeat the process, then onto the 3rd, then the 4th. Once there is no more air coming out of the bleed nipples the system should be working normally. Remember to keep topping the master cylinder up with brake fluid every 10 or so pumps of the pedal. It usually takes about 1 litre of fluid to clear a system with air in it.
If you fail to get fluid at the bleed nipple then you have a more serious problem like a broken pipe or faulty master cylinder.
Hope this helps.
M
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- Basic 850
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
If you post up a picture of what you have we can tell you.
In this picture the servo is on the left behind the big air hose.
In this picture the servo is on the left behind the big air hose.
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Thanx for the pic, based on them I can confirm there is no servo fitted, I will take a look to the vídeo and take it from there, Many thanx
- Joel Welsh 4769VU
- 850 Super
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
To bleed the air from a "standard" brake system on any car in general-
Have a helper.
They pump the brake pedal.
Check the brake shoes, pads for proper thickness... not worn out. Check for proper adjuster- adjustment. Lol.
Top up/off the master cylinder with fluid.
The helper pumps the brake pedal several times, until, or if the pedal starts to get hard. Or, it may not at all-
THEN THEY HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN not letting it up.
You then- starting at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder... open the bleeder screw. The brake pedal should go to the floor. Fluid should come out, with air sputtering- if there is air... or no fluid at all.
The helper still holds the pedal down- DO NOT LET IT UP, YOU WILL SUCK IN AIR.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Check fluid in master cylinder- re fill as needed...
And repeat until just fluid comes out, no air.
Move to next farthest wheel- and repeat.
Pedal should get harder, faster... every wheel done... until you have a good, firm brake pedal.
If this doesn't work- you have a problem in the system.
For example:
Improperly adjusted drum brake setup.
Bad master cylinder.
Broken/leaking line.
Leaking/bypassing caliper, or wheel cylinder.
The last two would be obvious due to the now existing puddle of brake fluid on the floor.
Have a helper.
They pump the brake pedal.
Check the brake shoes, pads for proper thickness... not worn out. Check for proper adjuster- adjustment. Lol.
Top up/off the master cylinder with fluid.
The helper pumps the brake pedal several times, until, or if the pedal starts to get hard. Or, it may not at all-
THEN THEY HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN not letting it up.
You then- starting at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder... open the bleeder screw. The brake pedal should go to the floor. Fluid should come out, with air sputtering- if there is air... or no fluid at all.
The helper still holds the pedal down- DO NOT LET IT UP, YOU WILL SUCK IN AIR.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Check fluid in master cylinder- re fill as needed...
And repeat until just fluid comes out, no air.
Move to next farthest wheel- and repeat.
Pedal should get harder, faster... every wheel done... until you have a good, firm brake pedal.
If this doesn't work- you have a problem in the system.
For example:
Improperly adjusted drum brake setup.
Bad master cylinder.
Broken/leaking line.
Leaking/bypassing caliper, or wheel cylinder.
The last two would be obvious due to the now existing puddle of brake fluid on the floor.
Wauseon, Ohio- United States
1964 mk1 Austin Cooper "Dianna"
Tartan red and black
I can't take credit for what others built- all I can do is try to put her back on the road.
You just can't fix stupid... you can hide it sometimes though...
1964 mk1 Austin Cooper "Dianna"
Tartan red and black
I can't take credit for what others built- all I can do is try to put her back on the road.

You just can't fix stupid... you can hide it sometimes though...

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- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:31 am
- Location: Mexico City
Re: Brakes needs to pump
thank you ALL for the suggestions, they've been pretty helpful. I call a guy that actually knows about classic minis and he took the master cylinder out for a checking, hopefully he can refurbish it back to normal.
- Joel Welsh 4769VU
- 850 Super
- Posts: 217
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Re: Brakes needs to pump
Good luck with it! Hope it works out sir.
Wauseon, Ohio- United States
1964 mk1 Austin Cooper "Dianna"
Tartan red and black
I can't take credit for what others built- all I can do is try to put her back on the road.
You just can't fix stupid... you can hide it sometimes though...
1964 mk1 Austin Cooper "Dianna"
Tartan red and black
I can't take credit for what others built- all I can do is try to put her back on the road.

You just can't fix stupid... you can hide it sometimes though...
