Brake Line Leak

[rogerotto66s]

Need assistance re: isolating and correcting a brake line leak.

This is the first time I am dealing with brakes during the restoration on ‘66 S.

Leak is coming from right front area where multiple connections reside.

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As you know space is extremely tight for hands let alone tools.

What options might I have?

[Andrew1967]

Roger,

Have you got an NPT threaded brake light switch ?

There are parallel threaded switches .... that will leak. Been there, done that.

[rogerotto66s]

Thanks Andrew

Have you got an NPT threaded brake light switch ?
There are parallel threaded switches .... that will leak. Been there, done that.

The brake light switch, banjo bolt and 2-way 90-degree union are original to the car.
So I assume the threads match.

How can one access these joints to at least try to tighten?
What tools?
What needs to be removed?

[Andrew1967]

The only thing I can think is a cranked (if standard spanner won't fit) spanner to get onto the bolt and hopefully can get access from under clutch housing .

Deep socket and wobble extensions to check brake light switch is tight.

[rogerotto66s]

Thanks Andrew

I will check available wrenches, sockets, etc

[rogerotto66s]

Does anyone know the wrench/spanner size for the brake light switch and the banjo bolt?

Is their a reference anywhere for thread size and spanner size for various mini bolts?

[OGW 1082]

Hello Roger,
I get 1" AF for the brake light switch and 5/8 AF for the banjo bolt.
Regards,
Glen

[rogerotto66s]

Thanks Glen

The largest socket I had was 15/16” and that was too small.
I will purchase/borrow a 1” deep socket to remove the brake switch.
I do have a 5/8” socket for the banjo bolt.

[cmiller]

Verify that both copper washers are in place. Number 15 and 17 in the picture. I have seen the bottom one accidently forgotten on a car.

Chris Miller

[Peter Laidler]

I had a very small leak - weeping of fluid - from the switch part. Where the main steel body part is rolled over and sealed (or not in this case) the switch part. The brake light still worked but..... The small leak there allowed the fluid to run down to the sub frame. So with brake fluid all over the show, it made detection difficult. Luckily I had silicon fluid so no other problems

[surfblue63]

For tight spaces you might find crowfoot wrenches useful

[rogerotto66s]

For tight spaces you might find crowfoot wrenches useful

I have always wanted to try these ... this might be the time!

[kit of bits]

Have you fitted new flexys?

[rogerotto66s]

Have you fitted new flexys?

Brake flex hoses have NOT been replaced.

[Peter Laidler]

New copper washers or anneal the original ones? I always anneal the new ones to!

[kit of bits]

Check the thread depth where the union goes into the flexy theres sometimes a different O/S to N/S the union can bottom out you will think it’s tight but it’s not..
There’s only about 2 threads different..
D

[AndyPen]

I posted on this somewhere, turned out that the recess in the brake pipe wasn't deep enough, as posted above. Had to replace the flexi pipe in the end.

[Andrew1967]

I guess the first thing and due to access might not be easy is to try to ascertain exactly where the leak is coming from in that group of potential leak spots .

Maybe dry it all out with degreaser and then have someone carefully apply light pressure to the pedal whilst looking .

[Fanfaniracing]

What Brake Pipes did you use?

I find that the new Braided front Brake hose from Goodridge are not identical.

One hole is deeper.

If you use the wrong hose, you are not able to turn part nr. 18 deep enough in so it will leak

[rogerotto66s]

Upon closer inspection I found the brake light switch was not tight and the 2 copper washers were “not good”!
I disassembled all parts, cleaned then, replaced the washers and put all back together.
I used the original parts (flex hose, banjo, brake switch) so I do not anticipate any problems with compatibility.
I will bleed brakes this week and see if the leak was been fixed.


I used these wrenches/sockets on the various nuts
- 15/16” wrench on the bottom hose bolt
- 5/8” socket/wrench on the banjo bolt
- 1” deep socket on the brake light switch


A local hydraulics shop suggested using a “Dowty bonded washer” in place of the copper washer.
Does anyone have experience with these washers?

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