Pre-install U-joints which side first

[65MK1S]

I'll be installing my engine very soon and can't remember
which side of the U-joint (inboard or outboard) to install before I put
the engine in. It's been too long since I last did it I seem to remember,
usually after installing the wrong side first, that one side is much harder
after engine installation.

ujoints2.jpg

[bwaminispeed]

I find that style to be just as easy either side, putting both in with engine installed....
The rubber ones are more difficult, but, I always do them with the engine installed (but, with the engine mounts and steady bar undone so you can shift the motor around a bit)

In 60 years, I have never pre-installed one, and, really never found them that difficult to do......

[Peter Laidler]

Agree with BWA but would like to add that you stick rigidly to the 8x clamping nut torque figure given with the kit. Like the rubbers, it might seem stupidly low, but it is all about the mechanics of opposing tapers

[65MK1S]

Agree with BWA but would like to add that you stick rigidly to the 8x clamping nut torque figure given with the kit. Like the rubbers, it might seem stupidly low, but it is all about the mechanics of opposing tapers

Hi Peter, since these are steel instead of nylon or rubber I think I can get
away with a little more torque. As is I usually hand tighten till it feels proper.
I also use the all metal lock nuts as they are smaller height wise but whole
heartily agree with the nylon or rubber.

[Dr S]

Give the u bolts a squeeze in the vice so they slide right in. Don’t need much torque it’ll crack the plastics

[65MK1S]

Give the u bolts a squeeze in the vice so they slide right in. Don’t need much torque it’ll crack the plastics

That's great advice about squeezing the bolts a leetle to fit well
although the U-joints are steel not plastic

[iain1967s]

Personally I find it easier to attach the crucifix joint to the diff output yokes first. The driveshaft yoke is on a sliding spline, so it’s easier to jiggle into that side position after the crucifix is already in place.

Be aware that there are reports that those solid metal ‘competition’ [rather than nylon QL5000 type] are trickier to align correctly without binding up. I’ve never used them, but see this discussion: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... rsal-joint

There are some brief details here: http://www.heritagegarage.com/parts_hg5 ... g_set.html

[65MK1S]

Personally I find it easier to attach the crucifix joint to the diff output yokes first. The driveshaft yoke is on a sliding spline, so it’s easier to jiggle into that side position after the crucifix is already in place.

Be aware that there are reports that those solid metal ‘competition’ [rather than nylon QL5000 type] are trickier to align correctly without binding up. I’ve never used them, but see this discussion: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... rsal-joint

There are some brief details here: http://www.heritagegarage.com/parts_hg5 ... g_set.html

Thanks for the heads up on the Heritage parts it took a lot of very precise measuring with parts out of
the car to get the correct u-joint replacement. More time than it took to install them. They didn't cost anywhere
near the Heritage price when I first purchased these. Ah well, everything is more expensive now