Screwing down the stainless channel for sliding windows

[btetley]

Instructions I've seen say screw through the rubber channel first then through the stainless channel into the door frame. Won't the glass slide on the top of the screw? Have any of you used rivets instead of screws?

[woodypup no 2]

You screw through the other channel. Ie the front pane is in the outer channel so screw through the inner channel. Ergo at the back, screw through the outer channel.

[Peter Laidler]

I seem to recall doing exactly what Woody says (above) but I used some long brass BA threaded instrument screws, nuts and washers instead of self tappers

[btetley]

Of course! That makes perfect sense. Thanks

[Nick W]

Instructions I've seen say screw through the rubber channel first then through the stainless channel into the door frame. Won't the glass slide on the top of the screw? Have any of you used rivets instead of screws?

I use small countersink stainless screws, they should then sink in the the runner material deep enough to miss the glass.

[Polarsilver]

i also use some body seal squashed under & up the vertical to door= stop water ingress

[mk1]

My method is the same as Nicks above. I use stainless screws & don't have any issues. I do also put sealing gunk under the metal channel too.

Would be interested to hear how Peter's long BA screw method works? I can't imagine how you get to the nuts?

[Peter Laidler]

That got me thinking. Got the torch out and they're still there.... 1.25" long countersunk head brass instrument screws (as used on non magnetic instruments and readily available in model making circles). exactly as the others suggest, drill right through with nuts and washers from underneath

[Lakeland997]

That got me thinking. Got the torch out and they're still there.... 1.25" long countersunk head brass instrument screws (as used on non magnetic instruments and readily available in model making circles). exactly as the others suggest, drill right through with nuts and washers from underneath

Do you mean drilling right through the top and bottom of the channel - right through to the inside of the door?
If so, that would create a water ingress risk, unless of course, like many of us, you use your car mainly in the dry.

[Peter Laidler]

You're right Andy! But well sealed and sat on a bed of sealant on new BL doors.

But this thread has got me thinking that it's time to undo one of the brass bolts and use the hole to insert a long 'straw' from a can of Supertrol 001 in and along to inject a dose of Supertrol grease front to back and vice-verca. That's another rust prone area that gets missed once the car is assembled. Time for another '...how I dun it' article....