Front Twin Leading Shoe drums pulling in all directions.

[Skeete]

I have a 62 Austin Deluxe that I am refurbishing,
It has never braked straight since I got it, and I have now changed many things
Most recently I have recently replaced all of the suspension components upon which one of the Twin leading edge cylinders decided to fail, so I moved on to replace all the brake components from hoses to drums. Brakes are correctly adjusted and are free from any contaminants.

I took it for a test drive and it pulls fairly hard to the right, but once it got warm it started to pull to the left.
I am able to lock the brakes up at around 10mph if I mash the peddle which I think sounds about right.

Any thoughts on what could be causing the pull in different directions?

I have replaced all rubber bushing, tie rods, tracking, shocks, bump stops, ball joints, control arms etc..

Thanks for any advice on what to check.

[surfblue63]

Could be just bedding in. Readjust the brakes and do a few more miles.

[Herbert]

A farfethced one, but does it pull to a side when accelerating or decelerating, without hitting the brakes? I ask because it could be the diff not shimmed up correctly. Other than that, if it pulls to the right, slacken the adjuster off on the o/s drum. Vice versa if it pulls to the left...Good luck!

[Skeete]

A farfethced one, but does it pull to a side when accelerating or decelerating, without hitting the brakes? I ask because it could be the diff not shimmed up correctly. Other than that, if it pulls to the right, slacken the adjuster off on the o/s drum. Vice versa if it pulls to the left...Good luck!

It initially did before I replaced all of the suspension components. Now it drives dead straight under load and coasting, the problem is only under braking.

Will try to do some more miles and re-adjust as is being recommended.
I think my adjustment is not tight enough, I adjusted to tight then backed off until it spins, but I heard from a youtube video that they should drag, so I will try to do that as well.

Appreciate the responses.

[Peter Laidler]

I would take a test drive and ask someone to make note of the comments you make regarding the brakes. Then change the wheels over. Short test drive again with comments. Then change the drums around, then drums and wheels followed by shoes in pairs and so on and on. From that you will soon ascertain exactly what is causing the pulling or poor brake operation.

You get someone to take notes so that you avoid confusion about WHAT happened, WHEN

[surfblue63]

Or voice record with a Dictaphone.

[bwaminispeed]

This is very common on brake drums, single or twin leading shoe.......

It takes a while for them to bed in evenly, just keep driving, and adjusting, driving and adjusting.....

Another thing to check, is, the off end steering rack bushing (farthest away from the pinion), when it gets badly worn, the wheel on that end of the rack steers outwards under braking, pulling you in that direction (right on a left hand steer, and, left on a right hand steer).....

Miss adjusted rear brakes will also pull left or right.....Tight right rear will pull right, tight left will pull left.....

Just going through all this myself with a newly acquired 61 Morris Woody, with all new brakes front and rear......down to a bad rack bush now, will probably put a later rack in it....

[Skeete]

This is very common on brake drums, single or twin leading shoe.......

It takes a while for them to bed in evenly, just keep driving, and adjusting, driving and adjusting
.............

Thanks very much.
I will take it for an extended drive and see if things settle down after a few adjustments.

I am moving on the rear next, adjustable camber brackets, new suspension components etc... Would be great to get the fronts sound before I introduce yet another variable to the mix.

[Peter Laidler]

Are you saying that you're leaving the front TL-shoe and suspension standard (after you've got it all correct of course) but fitting adjustable camber brackets to the rear? Strange choice

[woodypup59]

Make sure the chamfer on the shoes is in the correct orientation.

[Polarsilver]

If this was my problem, i would take off the Brake Drums & Shoes to .. Q Have i got the correct type of Brake Shoe fitted & are the Leading edge of the Brake Shoes positioned to be the correct way around ? .. then look at the friction surface to Question .. just how old are these brake linings maybe decades old ??? with brittle friction material so perhaps i should have worn a mask as these Linings may contain asbestos .. All ok so Look see is there even surface wear apparent and if not try to establish why maybe the brake drum inner surface itself is not circular or perhaps it is over worn with a lip outside the friction surface ?.. whatever i would take a rough-ish sandpaper type material & then roughen / even up the shoes friction surface to help with bedding in & also use the sandpaper to clean off the inner brake drum surface before rebuild make sure the adjusters are working + pull off springs do they look to be correct fitted ..look see that the brake cylinders are not leaking or incorrect type & fitted correctly ..then a through Clean Up using a Brake Clean spray type or whatever applicable brake cleaner.
Make sure that i know that the shoes are correctly adjusted so i can then brake with confidence ..no point in any car that you have no confidence in its brakes .. run car for a bit & strip down again to check & see how the Friction Surface is bedding in .. the issue here is classic cars do not travel sufficient mileage so bedding in brakes can take some time ..Brakes need regular maintenance.

[gs.davies]

From memory the instruction was to adjust the brakes to lock and then back off a quarter turn regardless of if they still drag, or something like that.

Apparently TLS are the answer to most braking problems short of S brakes, but having read this I’m only reminded of my 1975 850 which braked in whichever direction it fancied at the time of my bothering of the pedal.

It’s a pretty tricky set up from memory and probably worth replacing with discs

[Skeete]

Are you saying that you're leaving the front TL-shoe and suspension standard (after you've got it all correct of course) but fitting adjustable camber brackets to the rear? Strange choice

I have adjustable lower arms and tie rods on the front. Set to standard right now.

[Skeete]

Make sure the chamfer on the shoes is in the correct orientation.

Yes. The leading edge is set correctly and chamfered off with a file.

['S'-type]

Had this problem once and having tried all the adjustment stuff with no joy it turned out to be a partially blocked flexipipe on one side. You have replaced yours with new so it is unlikely I guess.

[woodypup59]

Make sure the shoes have the gap at the leading edge (red line).

I've seen some shoes with friction materials all the way across the curve, which can lead to grabbing.

LHS front shown.

[JohnA]

Are you turning the adjusters correctly, tighten the same way as the wheel rotates when travelling forwards ?

[Skeete]

Are you turning the adjusters correctly, tighten the same way as the wheel rotates when travelling forwards ?

Yes doing that correctly,
I have not had a chance to take it out for a drive again, will try once the weather picks up later this week.

[Simon776]

Have you checked that the rear brakes are working correctly?

[Skeete]

Have you checked that the rear brakes are working correctly?

No, but its on the list of things to do. I didnt want to fiddle with the rears until I know the front are good.