Engine stabilising with magic wand gearbox

[Peter1071]

My Elf build is coming along. It has occurred to me that having Cooperised the engine, 206 head, Cooper cam, twin carbs etc. It might rock around a bit sitting on the original magic wand gearbox. I can add an extra top engine steady but should I consider making some brackets to secure the gearbox at the back? I know such a kit was available back in the day. I'm used to the extra stability provided by the remote housing but want to retain the magic wand.

Has anyone tackled this issue?

Thanks,


Peter

[gs.davies]

Following this with interest. I’ve also built a warmed up engine atop a wand box.

[jayare]

Minispares do the lower rearward facing gearbox steadies:

https://minispares.com/product/Classic/ ... /MSSK.aspx?

https://minispares.com/product/Classic/ ... SK001.aspx?

I've had both of these fitted on a 1380 with rod change box (which also lacks the stabilising effect of the remote) along with the standard top steady and the engine was rock-solid.

JR

[timmy201]

I did both the lower steadies on my magic wand. I wanted to do the top one on the thermostat end, but the breather canister and heater hoses all wanted to take up the same space

[Peter Laidler]

In terms of the simple mechanics of the thing, the engine wants to rotate fore and aft about the axis of the final drive/diff/output shafts. (Some say it wants to rotate about the flexible engine mounts.......) To take advantage of leverage, the higher (or lower) you can get away from that final drive axis, the better. The optimum in terms of height is already the top engine steady bar. An equal steady on BOTH sides as Timmy says (above) would be even better. But, alas, an engine steady bar fitted close to the drive train axis isn't an engineers answer - although it seems to have been a Rover engineers answer

[whistler]

I have an additional problem as my 66 has hydrolastic suspension which restricts the fitting of the thermostat plate type. I'm hoping one of these water pump steady bars will fit mine. I have already fitted one to my wife's 83 mini which has a rod change and it seems quite good.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/the-ultim ... br024.html

[Maddog]

My Morris 850 with hot rodded 1100 engine similar to Timmy's has both the additional lower rear stabilisers fitted off the gearbox, with rubber bushes. I used the Minispares kits. The original top engine steady has hard urethane bushes fitted. This combination, with new engine mounts feels solid as a rock. No problems.
Maddog

[LuisM]

SPQR did a Kit for the Magic wand box that bolted underneath to the diff casing ...
I have one of those , not sure how effective as its not fitted , can take more detailed pics over the WE .

Cheers
Luis

[Peter Laidler]

It's all about rotational leverage AND ratio Luis. The closer you put the steady arms to the axis of the rotational forces, the less effective they are. I would suggest that a well maintained standard top arm with solidly attached brackets at either end with good quality bushes are a BIG way to solving the problem, The same at the other side will be a good addition.

My 2001 RCS5 rod change has additional gearbox to sub frame based anti rotation fittings and bushes. I change the bushes and the clonking goes - for a few months. So I change them again and guess what..........

[Charlynsane]

SPQR did a Kit for the Magic wand box that bolted underneath to the diff casing ...
I have one of those , not sure how effective as its not fitted , can take more detailed pics over the WE .

Cheers
Luis

Very nice period item! They also make a version for the Cooper a little different, I have a NOS set if anyone interested

[mk1]

The rear facing ones sold by Minispares mentioned well above this post work admirably. I use them on my Rod change 999 & they hold firm under even the most arduous conditions.