Dismantle boot lock?

[gs.davies]

Working through the ever growing list of broken and not fit for purpose parts on my car and it seems that my boot handle has had it. It’s missing one of the studs and the hole for the stud is equally wrecked, and so I got a replacement hoping to swap the escutcheon from this handle (for which I don’t have a key) onto my old boot lock.

How do I get the shank out of the assembly so I can release the part circled?

I’ve toyed with just using this lock but of course there’s no key and despite a good clean up, no key number on the shank..

As ever this car fights every single inch of the way

Any bright ideas?

48837FD8-3C93-448A-9B14-9210B9227018.jpeg

[Peter Laidler]

See that little silver collar thinggy, sat between the two threads..... got it.....? That is retained in place on the square shaft by the squared shaft being peened outwards to prevent the collar thinggy sliding off, aided be the spring behind it. With me so far?

Gently swage the squared metal bar back into its original shape and this will allow the lock to come apart. To re-assemble, reverse the procedure and gently re-peen - or swage - the squared shaft back to oprevent it coming apart again.

When it's apart you can fiddle with the tumblers and make the lock/tumblers fit your original car key.

[gs.davies]

Thanks Peter, I’ll have a crack at that now.

[Polarsilver]

Peter forgot to say with the covering & spring already removed ..there will also be a Small Pin to drift out & only then will the Lock slide out of the Handle.

[mk1]

When i have done these, I have ground the original peening off & have drilled & tapped the area where the peening was originally so the cup can be retained by a small screw when I re assemble.

Much easier than Peter's method.

[GraemeC]

I've done similar Mark, only I drilled before removing the peening and then used roll pins on reassembly (I can't remember exactly, but I think I drilled right through the shaft and used a roll pin long enough that it stuck out both sides).

[Peter Laidler]

But just DE-peening the small swage punch and then RE-peening it afterwards saves a lot of drilling surely? In reality, there very little loading behind the cup to fret about and once you've cleaned it all up, swopped the bits, fitted a new key barrel, there's very little chance that you'll need to take it apart again!

[GraemeC]

I'd rather clamp a square shaft in a machine vice and drill ONE hole on a pillar drill (not exactly a lot of drilling) then tickle it with the grinder than mess about trying to hold the thing, and hold the silver cup out of the way, whilst attacking it with hammers (TWICE).

[mk1]

Good call Graeme,

A roll pin is better.