Rear Wheel Bearings - thoughts?

[AndyPen]

I inherited new rear wheel hubs complete with taper bearings that I think were supplied by Mini Sport originally. With all the Chinese imports etc. that's a warning bell and there's plenty of info on the net on those to look out for. So that's my next job.

So assuming these are OK, I have seen online examples from just nipping them up whilst spinning the wheel, to fully torque them up to the original spec.What's the thoughts on tightening the rear hubs (with roller bearings not ball) on here?

[Peter Laidler]

Ah, bearings......., one of my forte's. Well, I like to think so ayway.

I wrote a tech article on rear wheel hubs and bearings some to ago Andy, with the assistance from one of my old Uni pals who was a big something at a little place called TIMKEN, who sponsored the article with the aid of 'several' sets. I think that it's still current on the how-I-did-it tech part of this forum. Have a read and come back to me.

But before you do, a word of advice from those wot knows. NEVER, not never ever accept that a bearing kit with spacer is dead right for your hub. Always, as told to me by the bearing inspection bay fitters, fit, torque, spin and test (for play, tightness and end float)

[AndyPen]

...and I was the first one to comment on its usefulness too - thanks for the reminder Peter.

Well I've just returned from shed and discovered they are bearings that have been given a real slagging off online and mini spares weren't even prepared stock them, so there you go. Another expense and another delay to follow!

FYI here's a pic, just so that the rest of you can avoid them too. On the rather rough surface, when you hold it to the light at just the right angle, you'll read FHBC KOR NP880810. It sounds as if some suppliers may still stock them.

KOR-rear-wheel-bearing.jpg

[Peter Laidler]

To be honest Andy and others, I wouldn't bin a new set of crap bearings just on the reputation alone. It depends on the application I say. If you've got a 850 or 998 everyday car that's never going to get flogged to death then use them. But always be aware of what you've got. Keep them serviced and If they last 5 or 8 or 10 thousand miles and you hear them grumbling then's the time to bin them and replace. But get your money's worth from then first I say.

We had a bearing inspection bay at one of our big Armour/AFV/tank workshops. All the VM's and fitters took a month or so in their perfecting their knowledge under the care of one of the pro's. The specialised tech knowledge these blokes had was amazing. Certainly taught me plenty.

[AndyPen]

I started to lightly nip them up Peter, by that I mean about 10lb or so of gentle torque. They felt like they were tightening up already when I went to spin them.

The engine going in is a fair way off going in so I'll fit these with no more torque than that, so that I can at least be on my way to getting it off the spit and rolling.

Timken are out of stock everywhere I look, otherwise I'f fit them on the bench and feel a little more reassured. It's my old Rally S and I want to feel its right.

Annoying, but at least I know what I am dealing with now.

[kit of bits]

I’ve fitted minimine specials to the moke on the theory that I won’t do many miles and they will be ok!
Ones good, ones er er.. coming back out..
D

[Dearg1275]

Try Googling SKF bearings GHK1140. I have found that they use Timkin bearings in their kits. Not cheap but available. Even if they are not Timkin, SKF are good bearings and have a reputation to uphold.

D

[Spider]

Those KOR Branded Bearings are bad news. They are not only showing up in our wheel bearings, but also gearbox and clutch thrusts.

[Peter Laidler]

SKF's = GOOD news

[colonel mustard]

Hi Andy
Are bearings you are after TIMKEN 07087X / 07210X? (I can not remember if the second pat of the number is correct?)
If so:
https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/ ... 11mm/23654
These are showing stock.

[Peter Laidler]

The trouble with buying taper roller bearings separately is that you have to calculate the exact width of the spacer you need, then machine it up. If you've already got an old spacer - or a box of old spacers that's fine. Just get the nearest oversize and turn it down to suit. Buying a kit of taper rollers and spacer is at best, a good average. Very loose to loose on/in some hubs, tight or VERY tight on others.

Some, unwise souls, suggest that the spacer is an unnecessary frill within a taper roller set. Just leave it out and let the hub-nut take up the slack, then lock the hub nut. NEVER not never ever do this because if you do, then the cup part of the taper rollers are not locked in place on the shaft. And guess what? They WILL rotate.

[AndyPen]

It appears that whatever mini sport fitted - it did not include the spacer

I think The SKF suggestion does from my research

[AndyPen]

Hi Andy
Are bearings you are after TIMKEN 07087X / 07210X? (I can not remember if the second pat of the number is correct?)
If so:
https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/ ... 11mm/23654
These are showing stock.

Thanks for that - have just ordered skf as they appear to include a spacer - fingers crossed!!!

[Peter Laidler]

No spacer is a quick-fix from some suppliers that suggest you just use the old one. The SKF and Timken people who supplied Unipart with pre-packed 'KIT, bearing and spacer' had outworkers called packers with accurate measuring kit to insert the exact bearing with the bearings to cater for the specified drawing thickness of the inbuilt hub spacer.

Alas, whoever did my RCS500 was a bit of a tosser because the rear left was as tight as a ducks ars......, er....., bottom. So much so that it scorched the grease. And the front left was a loose as buggery, so much so that it almost failed its first MoT at 4,000 miles!

[timmy201]

I bought some tapered rear bearings (from memory they were powertune brand) and the spacer was built into the inner races.

It’s been on for years and many miles and no issues. I recently stripped and regreased them and they looked fine. Your experience may differ

[Spider]

I bought some tapered rear bearings (from memory they were powertune brand) and the spacer was built into the inner races.

Timkens for the Rear have been like that for 20+ years now.

[AndyPen]

As I will be binning the crap bearings I tightened one side a little more just to see, and they really drag. Goodness knows what would happen if I torqued them up!

[Peter Laidler]

That illustrates the reason for accurately calculating the EXACT thickness of the spacer required. Although our bearing manufacturer differed, on my brand new RCSport5, I had to increase the spacer thickness (with an appropriate .005" shim to get the wheel to spin freely.

[CMC]

A search for SKF VKBA730 helps to find genuine items, although most sites are either out of stock, very expensive or offer cheap aftermarket bearings.

This is a good example of a genuine set:
https://www.ebay.it/itm/265129429080

[251 ENG]

I may have some new old stock unipart timken kits left

Email me at orx77@yahoo.co.uk