1071 cam?

[kit of bits]

I’m just sorting out a few parts, what cam would be recommended for a sporty 1071 road engine?
Thanks D

[CooperTune]

Interesting you should ask. I'm in the process of specing out 1071 build. Using a two pc. MSC balancer, 1071 crank, Ultra light flywheel
and back plate. A good quality clutch disc and I'm wondering weather a blue or orange spring. I have a NOS ST 643 which I have always
thought would be a part of this build. Looking a cam numbers I can't help but wonder if it will be over the top. I have just about every
way to put fuel in a 5 port. Thinking very hard about tricking out a set of 1 1/4s and using a mildly but beautifully ported 940 casting.
Looking at the numbers a Kent 286 is not far off a ST 643 I wonder if a Kent 276 might not be very close to right one. Steve (CTR)

[jay weinstein]

I had a 1071 with a 648 and 3.9's for street ...It was really sporty.

[miniac1071]

544 Always works well in a 1071.

[bmcman.ie]

544 Always works well in a 1071.

i agree, if you can find one!

[CooperTune]

Being an old man offers choices not there at 19. Being a MK1 a remote is the only option. Of course the 1128 is my choice having
std ratio, S/GT close ratio, Clubman SC/CR synchro, JKD multi spline standing start dog gears. Diff choices STD with tab thrust,
gears and HD pin, MSC cross pin diff, Evo trannex posi and gears for all 3.44, 3.9, 4.13, 4.20. Thinking simple S/GT close ratio s
STD diff ( not expecting a lot of torque ) 3.9 H/S drives. 544/643 different pump drive. Steve (CTR)

[NicholasUpton]

Depends on the final use and build of the car, if doing a high end resto seems like most owners want something that is true to the original, smooth idle and wide power band.

[CooperTune]

I understand the importance of correct restoration practice. That is the reason I'm not using anything from
my 64 1071 in this build. Not being a fan of Almond green, RHD, three synchro, or 3.5 wheels I'm building a
boy racer. Doing things I wanted to do 51 years ago finishing high school and working two jobs to build an 850.
Steve (CTR)

[ivor badger 3]

For a road car, the 997 cooper cam the number of which I can't remember. Good enough to rev to 7500 and torquey enough to tow a trailer.

[OzOAP]

For a road car, the 997 cooper cam the number of which I can't remember. Good enough to rev to 7500 and torquey enough to tow a trailer.

567. A good road cam.

[CooperTune]

The 997 cam was an autocross cam of choice for years. I have used the MG Metro cam in 850s with good results. It's a cross between the 997 and the 731 with the correct figures for intake and exhaust. I think that's right. There is no magic cam so I'll stick with the NOS ST643 until something better comes along. Steve (CTR)

[DougR]

Hi, I've just joined this excellent forum as I'm building a 1071 +20. FYI I built a 1275 +40 and put in a Kent 276 and city driving is difficult. It doesn't tick over very well (reguires repeated application of the pedal) and power comes on suddenly and frighteningly once a particular point in the revs is reached. It's a bit like having a turbo.
So I've decided on a 266 for the 1071. However would I be correct in saying that the Kent 266 would be regarded as old technology today? I am aware of newer cam profiles from MiniSport et al. What is your view?

[MrNoo]

The 997 cam was an autocross cam of choice for years. I have used the MG Metro cam in 850s with good results. It's a cross between the 997 and the 731 with the correct figures for intake and exhaust. I think that's right. There is no magic cam so I'll stick with the NOS ST643 until something better comes along. Steve (CTR)

Yes we used the Metro cam in the Mini Se7ens, used to go well, smooth, not cammy at all and pulled well up to 7,500, some used to go to 8k. A very underrated cam in my opinion. Not sure what they use now as been out of it for a long while

[MiNiKiN]

Hi, I've just joined this excellent forum as I'm building a 1071 +20. FYI I built a 1275 +40 and put in a Kent 276 and city driving is difficult. It doesn't tick over very well (reguires repeated application of the pedal) and power comes on suddenly and frighteningly once a particular point in the revs is reached. It's a bit like having a turbo.
So I've decided on a 266 for the 1071. However would I be correct in saying that the Kent 266 would be regarded as old technology today? I am aware of newer cam profiles from MiniSport et al. What is your view?

Whilst I myself lack the personal experience yet, I used the cam-chart and experience from others to decide which cam to buy for my fast road 1275.
This resulted in buying the Minispares EVO cam, the other option was the Swiftune SW5.

Mini_Camshaftsdata_comparison.xlsx

[Supersonic]

Hi, I've just joined this excellent forum as I'm building a 1071 +20. FYI I built a 1275 +40 and put in a Kent 276 and city driving is difficult. It doesn't tick over very well (reguires repeated application of the pedal) and power comes on suddenly and frighteningly once a particular point in the revs is reached. It's a bit like having a turbo.
So I've decided on a 266 for the 1071. However would I be correct in saying that the Kent 266 would be regarded as old technology today? I am aware of newer cam profiles from MiniSport et al. What is your view?

Doug,

I’ve no first hand knowledge with 1071cc fast road engines but can advise what camshafts work in 1293cc motors. I’ve four 1293cc motors all with different camshafts and this is how I rate them.

Kent 266 – my favourite - great all-round road camshaft
MED HT – Piper camshaft - my second favourite with smooth idle.
Kent 256 – nice camshaft – very smooth idle but not as good top end as the two above
Swiftune SW5 – very like the Kent 256 but seems to run out of steam before the Kent 256 does.

The above are in similar specification engines and forgetting about technical figures, its how they feel on the road. If I ever rebuild my Mk3 Cooper S again the SW5 will be removed as it feels like a bog standard cam. Many say the SW5 needs 1.5 ratio rockers to work. I run my car with 1.4 ratio rocker assembly.

Alan

[DougR]

Hi Alan, thanks for that information. Based on your experience I think I will carry on with my original plan and install the 266 that I have here on the shelf. I appreciate your advice. Regards Doug.

[DougR]

@MINIKIN
Hi, thanks for the spreadsheet. It's brilliant. I'll have to spend some time going through it. Best regards, Doug.

[CooperTune]

A little off topic but not bad, I have a 64 1071 S before I bought the car it was stored for years in a semi local shop. Over time some parts went missing. The 190 gear box and the cyl head. I'm not sure I'll ever find a 190 box, I have located and bought a 163 cyl head. The head came from an old time racer. I have crack checked and pressure tested and it is good with cast guides and high seats. Now back on point, the guide bosses and bowls are very nicely done and the ports intake and exhaust are well done and appear aggressive street or mild race. You can't roll a golf ball down them but they are large. The block is currently .030 O/S and will clean up at .040. I have a NOS ST643 I have planned to use. I have never had a running 1071 but I love revs just concerned about low end torque. My last ST 643 was in a 1330 with 13 to 1 CR Weber 3into 1 4.35 CWP would not wake up till 1850/1900. Tried extended rockers and lost a couple hundred on the bottom end. Any thoughts or experince with these? Steve (CTR)

[mk1]

I ran a 544 in my best ever mini for about 15 years. It was certainly "sporty" but was still easy to drive & great, great fun.

I have used other cams in a 1071 & none of them ever gave as good a performance as a good old 544.

I'd never use anything else.

Bottom end was a little fluffy but would pull pretty cleanly from maybe 1800rpm. HOWEVER! The head was mildly modified with just a bit of a scale & polish, no BIG ports. These kill the small displacement engines at low revs & could be a problem. I don't know as my ports were relatively small.

[Chewie Baker]

544 in mine, a tad lumpy on tick-over, which sounds great, but i like it