Problems bolting up remote shift

[Coalhod]

Hello; Replaced engine mounts with Mini Spares 21a1902 type as the old mounts were probably 40+ years old and on examination the rubber had separated from the mount. Also replaced the rubber mount at the tail of the remote.

Where the remote shift mounts to the differential housing had shown rounded off threads and when I tried to bolt up stripped one of the threads. Heli-coiled what looked bad and now the bolts closest to the engine thread are in ok but the longer rear bolts are on a bind and I managed to strip one of the longer bolts.

Seems like it would be better to assemble the remote to the differential housing prior to installing it to the rear remote bracket.

Andrew

[AndyPen]

That is the way I have always done it - what a pain you are having ;-(

[bwaminispeed]

Would never even have thought to do the back first, always bolt to the tranny first, and, leave the dog bone undone......

So, Tranny, dogbone, rear mount is the way I do it........

[Dr S]

I’ve always done it front to back. Remote on a trolley jack. Plenty of waggle to make sure it’s engaged the rods. Then ease them in all together to draw it home.

[Dr S]

Possibly a long bolt in the short hole job for alignment

[mk1]

I put the front on first, then the rear. Never had any issues at all.

[Herbert]

My advice would be to take the bolt on the clutch side off where the steady rod is. This allows the engine to "rock"
Then just put the long bolts on first but only 2 threads, then the short bolts, again only 2 threads. Now just nip them all up but not shit tight, let them back one thread.
Now re-bolt the steady roll
Now tighten up the remote boltsto 16lbs
Good luck!

R

[ivor badger 3]

Used to have this as a major problem when working on a friends Cooper S rally cross car many years ago. It was a major operation to fit the remote and then it would break the diff housing ar some point over the weekend. He finished one event with no remote with the car in 2nd gear, at least it stopped him changing up at 4500 rpm. So we got a bit fed up with all this fixing and I bolted the engine remote up without the top steady bar. I then took the steady bar and cut it in 2, put the bits alongside each other and worked out where to cut it to make it the right length. Welded it back together and we never broke the remote again. So try assembling the remote minus the steady bar.