Mk1 Door seals

[Van13]

Evening all need door seals last time I purchased some they were a nightmare and fit was terrible door refused to shut and bulged out in places probably the car was put together poorly ,so was wondering what options are out there if the door apature is slightly out

[Highnumbers]

Phoenix Trim do a range of different shaped seals, to fit all sorts of ill-fitting doors: https://phoenixtrim.co.uk/

I also recently bought a set of original Mk1 type from Minispares and was pleasantly surprised at how supple the material is. I'll be fitting it to my doors this week and will report back.

The main issue is that everyone's doors fit differently, and that's only compounded with varying levels of welding/bodywork done to each car. Makes it hard to recommend one seal that works for everybody.

[Van13]

Thanks for reply Phoenix seem to be the best option just had a look

[Daz1968]

I used new mini spares ones, but I did fit them while doing the repairs in that area so they fit perfect, but I do know Phoenix do different thickness ones to help difficult to fit doors.

[Andrew1967]

I used the MiniSpares ones, purchased about 6 months or so ago.

They fit very well with minimal on one side to no alteration on the other side lip at all. Also look correct as well.

I have used Phoenix in the past with mixed results but as has been said, they do do different sized seals so are probably the best to go with.

[Herbert]

I found a BMC Factory work sheet that explained how to fit the door and seals on the production line.

Fit the door without any rubbers just the Nylon buffer (14A6833) and the striker plate (14A6835).
Close the door and hold it so its aligned. Tighten the buffer and striker plate
Put your head in the window opening (no glass yet inserted) and check the gap all around the window frame.
Mark where the opening is less and more than 1/2".
Open the door and with a soft mallet and a piece of wood tap the frame so that the gap is even all around the top.
Then do the same for the bottom but you need to get in the car from the other side to mark and check.
Now fit the rubber, starting from half way across the bottom lip. You may need to put one or two drops of glue on the top section to hold it in place.

Now fit the door lock(without the handle) and striker plate (but just softly tighen it).
Slowly close the door so that its on the first tooth. Align it so that it is square with the lock.
Now push the striker plate 1/8" into the car and that will give you the starting point.

I am still looking for the work sheet, cant find it anywhere, Hope this post helps.

Good luck!

[Van13]

Received my door seals today they have changed them since I last bought some in the 90s and are a lot more forgiving

[Highnumbers]

Follow-up to this old thread.

I'm now fitting the doors back on my freshly painted Mk1. No major welding to any body panels, original doors... Minispares Mk1 rubber seal, and the fit is terrible. The doors fit great without rubbers, but with the seals mounted there is serious Sailor's Leg AND a big gap between the top of the frame and the seal.

Does anybody have a scan of the factory worksheet pages that include this illustration? There are letters referenced, and I'd like to get the text that goes along with it.

[jay weinstein]

I'd look into trying different door seals before I bent the crap out of doors that
fit well without seals.

[Highnumbers]

Thanks Jay, that's definitely a reasonable approach!

I even bought two other completely different version door seals from Phoenix Trims just in case the normal Mk1 were giving me trouble, yet both of those are poor-fitting as well! Some worse than the Mk1.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

[Nick W]

I'd use the mini spares seals, they are very accurately made, and look correct. I think Roland's work sheet just about sums up the procedure. But the seals will need "preloading" to sort the sailors leg, some info here

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=21682

[Gareth Brandt]

have the paperwork, but in Swedish

[Gareth Brandt]

With door seals in situ (phoenix)

[Gareth Brandt]

more

[mk1]

The truth of the great door seal mystery is that it doesn't matter which seals you buy, it's how they are fitted that makes all the difference. As has already been pointed out much earlier in this thread even the factory had a hell of a job getting the doors to fit correctly with the seals actually sealing.

Read the instructions earlier in this thread, take your time & DON'T expect them to just go on and be perfect, wherever you bought them from.

[Nick W]

Nice gaps!...I have 2 untouched original minis and all 4 doors stick out a bit at the back, so a car shouldn't be marked down for a slight bit sticking out, this fact also helps when trying to get the doors flush.

[Pandora]

It definitely seems to be a case of making the car fit the seals - whether through adjusting the lips onto which the seals sit, or twisting the shape of the door itself, but most likely both!

My A40 was the same, a lot of dressing the inner aperture so it sat parallel with the closed door and it was pretty simple from then forward

Al

[Highnumbers]

Excellent, thanks Gareth!

I've asked a friend in Sweden to help translate that page, which should help. Did you have to fabricate that hold bracket yourself? I assume that's not available anywhere.

I'm going to try a lot of patient adjustment with the Minispares Mk1 seal first, and try to get it to fit better without the serious adjustment illustrated above, but keeping that in mind.

[Gareth Brandt]

Yes, a friend of mine here in Sweden fabricated the tool. It's made of stainless steel. Works a treat! Didn't think it would work (thought it would bend) but it works! So easy to fix the door alignment and get them flush. Think the real problem has to do with how the a panel has been welded in place but as in my case the doors and body are quite untouched and still I had sailors leg so it has to do with the rubbers. Took me about 3 minutes per side to fix I use phoenix rubbers as their seals are more like the originals.The other tool ADO/15/A/3 I didn't use, don't know if this tool is available or if one has to make it, but it has a number so possibly it has been available at some point

[Highnumbers]

Thanks Gareth, I'll find somebody locally who can fabricate this for me.

I spent more time last night getting the panel gaps as perfect as I can, and the door fits slightly better, but still protrudes with slight sailor's leg as well. Like yours, my car was not extensively welded (original A-panels, doors and shell), so it has to be the rubber.

Unfortunately I didn't test fit enough WITH the rubber during the build and the car is fully painted now. So I hope that tool will not marr the paint, if I need to use it to correct the fitting issue.

Will use the ideas in the link above first.