O HAPPY DAYS ! Engine and refurbed box back in. Wand shift connected. Tried the gearbox with engine running and got no gears
Could be down to air in system still or adjustment - i hope. (new clutch also)
Engine off and can get 1 3 4 and R . No 2nd. The wand shift falls over to the left if slightly pushed like from 12 oclock to 9 oclock ? Could this be the problem with no 2nd gear ?
Is it ball on wand shift into socket and retaining plate tightened or have i missed something along the line ??
Its 1 step forward and 2 back at the moment.
Regards Gary
Not sure if this helps but I had gear selection problems (ie on 2, 4 and Rev) because the engine mounts had sagged, preventing the stick going fully down.
But that does, at least partly, sound like the clutch not dis-engaging properly.
This is exactly why I always run my new rebuilds on the floor before installing in the car........
What exactly happens when you try to engage any gear with the engine running........
What happens when you depress the clutch pedal, can you feel any pressure, as in, the clutch disengaging...
Not engaging 2nd gear with the engine off may just be that those gears are not lined up for engagement, try pushing the car a few inches, and, see if that helps.....
Gears tight to go in - didn't force them. Car still on axle stands with no wheels on front. Have removed wand from box. I can feel a 10mm ish groove on the rear ball of the wand stick. Is the small bolt on the side of the casing supposed to fit in this slot and stop trhe stick falling to one side or does the large ball at the back slot onto something inside the casing. If so , at what position is it - 3-6-9- or 12o clock ?
Yes the groove in the big ball keeps the stick in a certain position - IIRC the bolt that locks it is in the side of the gear housing so that would be 3 or 9 o'clock.
Another thing to look out for is the length of the engine steady on the side of the block. The original standard length can be critical with a magic wand box as it controls the tilting of the engine. Jumping out of second used to be often attributed to steady arm bushes worn, so allowing the engine to rock and knock it out of gear.
The pin on the side of the casing. What sort of torque we looking at or is it a "good" hand tighten. Tried it tight first time round and wand was tight to move - is this normal ? Loosened the bolt off a little and the wand flops to the left ? Any advice please
Major problems sorted. Thanks gents for info.
Just an observation, The clutch is bled and adjusted but the clutch pedal is real easy to push down - or am i just used to modern car clutch pedal feel and travel ?
The fix was to remove the wand from the box with the side casing retainer bolt nearly out. Screw the bolt in slowly checking the movement of the wand from in the car . Eventually, could feel the bolt was in the groove on the outer ball by putting slight pressure on the gear knob and trying to turn the wand towards the 9 o'clock position. When happy with this, i tightened the bolt in reasonably tight, probally just enough to compress the lock washer.
Re bled the clutch to be on the safe side and adjusted the clutch in the TWO places as required. Its a refurbed hybrid 4 syncro box so things a "little " tight but was able to select all gears.
