Selector fork position problems

[btetley]

I bought a replacement 3rd/4th gear selector fork for for an early 4 synchro gear box (remote gear change) from minispares.
When it arrived it was very tight on the synchro ring. With some grinding paste I was able to get it to turn nicely and perhaps there is 1-2 thou clearance.

During assembly of the gearbox the problem is that the complete syncro hub seems to sit too close to 3rd gear so that the new baulk ring binds on the cone during neutral. It makes reverse, 1st or 2nd gear selection very tight to turn the whole gear assembly because the 3rd gear baulk ring is "catching"

I pulled apart the gearbox to inspect (by comparing with other forks I have) the placement of the bolt that locates the selector fork on its rod and it looks ok, though I didn't do thorough measurements with a micometer etc.

It has been said that 15 thou is the maximum wear before replacing a selector fork and the 4 other forks I have are outside this tolerance. One could be close, perhaps 17 thou or so. Ive got a press so I could squeeze it tighter?

Has anyone experienced this before?

Do I just need to make the clearance bigger to , say, 10 thou so the synchro can move away from 3rd gear? Are the selctor forks from minispares rubbish?

I'd send it back to minispares if I wasn;t in NZ, and theyve just sent me a replacement fork for one they sent me incorrectly for my other gearbox - at their expense. So I dont want to ask.

I'd like some advice. The attached picture shows the synchro sitting closer to 3rd than it is to 4th,
I dont really know what to do now.

Cheers.

Bruce

[Spider]

Crimping the forks up isn't ideal as the fork then 'runs' on its tips instead of a wide surface, however, being 3 / 4 you could get away with it.

I've been rather disappointed with new selector forks, there's been very few that have been on sepc.

[indigo]

Have you tried it with the main shaft nuts tightened up?
This will pull the shaft assemblies into the correct running position.

[btetley]

Have you tried it with the main shaft nuts tightened up?
This will pull the shaft assemblies into the correct running position.

Yes it was all torqued up. I put the old selector in and made marks inside the box then put the new one back in. There was an alignment difference of about 1mm - enough for the baulk ring to lockup third gear. Today I re-engineered a new hole for the bolt. Now I'm figuring out a way to increase the clearance on the fork so it fits the synchro with more clearance. Not impressed with the quality of the fork. Its nowhere near the quality of the original