Converting from Wet to dry

[mk1rally]

Hello all, looking at building up a shell I have and it was previously wet. I don't have a problem with wet cars but prefer dry TBH. I know the subframe is different (I'm only looking at converting the rear, I have a complete dry front) and that I need to replace the displacers with cones and trumpets, but what about the rest of the componants. Can i still use the original radius arms? brakes and the like?

[InimiaD]

You'll need dry radius arms, dry handbrake quadrants, dry handbrake cables.
The rest of the brakes, backplate etc are compatible.
Without having a crawl under my wet Mini for a look, the position of the flexible brake hose is also different on wets versus dry's.

[littler]

with wet front top arms you will get a harder ride, good thing though if its a fast road/ competition car, but you will need to fit a shock mounting pin and a top shock mount

with the actual subframes i think its just a case of bending the locateing tabs for the displacers out of the way for the cones.

my 65 cooper was originaly wet, i just did a swap with the rear wet backend for a built up rear dry subframe from a crash damaged car from a scrap yard that looked like new! . and had a dry front one and swapped the lot over hence why i know about wet front arms giving more rate.

i wonder if anyone has ever looked at pressing dry stub axles into wet arms?

[InimiaD]

i wonder if anyone has ever looked at pressing dry stub axles into wet arms

Somewhere in the depths of my quickly declining grey matter I recall reading something about the wet trailing arms and the position of the Knuckle Joint boss which is different to dry arms.
To look at both examples of arms together it is plain to see. Something to do with springing ratio or swing ratio, I think.