Moving the regulator when fitting a servo

[Jamie]

Hi there
My car was originally an 850 on drums, i have converted to the 7.5 cooper s disc setup and i was planning to fit a lockheed servo also.

I have just realised that the regulator is in a different position on an S and i guess i need to move mine so it isnt in the way of the servo. From the picture i have seen the regulator on the S is where my fuse box currently is, now i'm not sure if my loom is going to reach back that far enough? and i dont seem to have much slack to move the fuse box?

Has anyone had to move their regulator due to fitting a servo? Or any advice on how i get round this?

Thanks
Jamie

[Andrew1967]

When I built my S replica, I had this problem.

I mounted the regulator on top of the crossmember where the early dry cars had their regulators mounted, leaving the fuse box in the correct place for dry S's and all other Mini's.

I used a NOS gen BMC Mk1 SDL/Cooper loom and had the problem of the wires being too short. In the end, I decided to get some wire and terminals from Autosparks and made up a small extension loom. The extra connections are tucked away under the air intake tube so cannot be seen very easily.

[Jamie]

thanks for that Andrew.

that might be what i have to do i, i guess my other options are to cut the outer braiding on the loom and pull the regulator wires out further up the loom by the T piece section it looks like they would then reach from there...then i need to get some outer braiding to wrap round where i cut, or run it without the servo!

[vulcanbb18]

or run it without the servo!

I was gonna say "you don't need one!". I've found I prefer the 7.5"s with 10" wheels without a servo, pedal pressure is not excessive and I really like the pedal feedback

cheers

Jacob

[mk1]

Unless you are wanting to build an S replica I would suggest the S servo is a waste of time. Save your money & don't use it.

[Ronnie]

If you do want a servo, but don"t need it to look like factory fitment is it not possible to turn the servo around?

[mk1rally]

Or fit it under the dash on the passenger side? if your not bothered with creating a S look.

[Jamie]

Hi
thanks for the replies.
yeah its not going to be an S replica...so i am going to leave the servo off.
thanks for the advice!

I am a bit stuck on something else...
I ditched the 850 engine for a 1300gt engine. I swapped the timing chain cover from the 850s engine over so i dont have the breather on the timing chain cover anymore but i have left on the breather on the gearbox casing.
I was going to use the 850s rocker cover with the vent pipe as the other breather.
I have the twin HS2's from the 1300gt which have KN cone filters on them on the original inlet manifold.

I dont really know how to connect the breathers up or where to....the breather pipes on the 1300gt lump were disconnected when i bought it, so i have nothing to go on.

Any advice appreciated!

thanks for your help again!

Jamie

I can get a picture of the engine if it helps.

[Andrew1967]

Whilst I'd agree it's certainly OK to run without a servo, from owning a 998 Cooper with non-servo'd S brakes and the 1275 S replica with a servo, I personally think the servo'd brakes are far better.

I'm not saying that the servo makes the brakes better as we all know that they don't, it just takes much less effort to brake.

On the downside, it would obviously cost more to fit a servo and work in the clutch area is much more restricted.

The choice, as they say, is yours

[mk1rally]

Sup to you about the sevo. If the car is heavier I'd run a servo as it makes braking easier on your foot. There is less feel to the pedal but I got used to that and wouldn't go back now. A light weight car with decent pads (I can recommend Green Stuff, not to much money either) they will be fine without.

As said, the servo does not improve the physical braking, but does allow you to apply more pressure easier so it's less hard work if you are pressing on a bit.

Breathers - you can feed them back into the filter housing but blowing oil mist through them for reburn in the mixture does have the effect of lowering the RON rating of your chosen fuel, less bang for your buck!!

You can use these little breathers you can buy from a motor factors or K&N that allow them to breath but do have a tendancy to deposit a fine mist around the engine bay or you can plumb them all into a catch tank. These can also have a small filter fitted to the top but the idea is that the oil mist collects in the bottom and you empty it once in a while. You can build or buy one of these. It's not hard to make.

[Jamie]

thanks for that...so for making a catch tank - do i just take a pipe from the crankcase breather and one from the rocker cover to say an air tight can? and then maybe fit a small filter to the top?

i have seen a few old oil cans mounted in peoples engine bays before.....its only now you realise you should have taken photos!

[mk1rally]

Yes thats the idea.

I've seen people use expansion tanks too.

You can get 3/8 hose fittings from VW heritage, a filter and some sort of alloy can with a lid on it. A nice retro touch, I've seen people make proper jobs out of a old Castrol top up can. The green steels ones you sometime see at auto jumbles.

[Jamie]

i remembered where i saw one on here before, it was when a member was selling his car....just found the link on the old forum - hope he doesnt mind me putting the link up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44645707@N ... 668652684/

it doesnt look like it is air tight though...but that looks the same way i will need to pipe mine

[Ronnie]

i remembered where i saw one on here before, it was when a member was selling his car....just found the link on the old forum - hope he doesnt mind me putting the link up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44645707@N ... 668652684/

it doesnt look like it is air tight though...but that looks the same way i will need to pipe mine

If it is airtight it will not fill up!! it must be vented.