Initial start up, and oil gallery plug leak

[mini_surfari]

Hi guys,

I suppose a somewhat successful bank holiday weekend on the mini,

I managed to get it Started, after a full engine rebuild, however I'm aware that I'm supposed to run the car at 2k Rpm for 20mins to knock the cam in, it must of been running at this for 3-5 mins before I notice oil pouring out of the oil gallery plug by the timing case, (just behind the alternator tensioner).

Now my first question is will I be able to replace this plug institue?

And also, I'm worried by stopping and starting the engine without knocking the cam in I'm going to be doing some damage, especially as the fuelling and timing aren't set up?

Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers, Oli

[rich@minispares.com]

to replace it you have to remove all the radiator, timing gear and the backplate

I had to do this on one of my engines years ago, after it had been built by a 'marque expert' who had fitted the plugs using a tool that had punched a tiny hole into it.

it can be done with the engine in situ, but its a tedious job - it took hours as its just so difficult to get the access to pull the damaged plug out

[mini_surfari]

This was my fear, hoped I may be a able to take the rad etc off drill a pilot hole in the plug and pull it out ....

I won't say which engine builds put my plugs in but with such a good rep I'm a little dissapointed, but these things do happen

[LarryLebel]

If you have an A+ motor and use a A gasket on the front plate it will leak in about the same place as that oil gallery plug. There's no prize for figuring out how I know this.

[woodypup59]

Not sure if you'll be able to drill the plug - they can be chuffing hard.

[rich@minispares.com]

Not sure if you'll be able to drill the plug - they can be chuffing hard.

they are just tin caps - which is why they leak if people bash them in wrong

I bet the proper brass ones never did!

[mini_surfari]

Using my right angle drill adaptor and a screw I've mananged to pull the plug out, but it seems to be stuck against the timing back plate, so out comes the engine....

So much to do to have it ready for beaulieu

[woodypup59]

they are just tin caps - which is why they leak if people bash them in wrong.
I bet the proper brass ones never did!

Glad to hear that - IIRC some are grub screws and/or steel balls.

[mk1]

From what I remember, it is only obscured by a small amount of the front plate, can't you make clearance to remove the plug using a dremmel of other small die type grinder? I am sure this could be done without removing everything as Rich suggested.

[66S]

From what I remember, it is only obscured by a small amount of the front plate, can't you make clearance to remove the plug using a dremmel of other small die type grinder? I am sure this could be done without removing everything as Rich suggested.

Yup, done it that way !! Not too difficult but took the radiator out to gain better access.

Al

[mini_surfari]

i cant get my die grinder in at a good enough angle to make a neat job of it, so ill lift the engine out tonight and see what i can do,

has anyone got any basic settings for twin hs4 carbs, on its initial start up? 1293, 286 cam etc. just a starting point so i can knock the cam in without it being too rich or too lean?

[mk1]

With the carb jet level with the bottom of the carb mouth, wind about 8 flats down & that will be fine for initial run in, pretty much regardless of what needle is in there.

M

[mini_surfari]

With the carb jet level with the bottom of the carb mouth, wind about 8 flats down & that will be fine for initial run in, pretty much regardless of what needle is in there.

M

By level with the bottom, do you mean wind the nut all the way in, and then loosen off 8 flats so to speak?

[ianh1968]

Fully lean, ie fully "anti-clockwise-when-viewed-from-the-top",
then wind the jet down (clockwise) 8 flats.

Or just take off the suction chamber and set the top of the jet
to about 50 thou down from the bridge level.

Ian

[ianh1968]

From what I remember,
it is only obscured by a small amount of the front plate,<SNIP>

Yup, done it that way !! Not too difficult but took the radiator out to gain better access.
Al

If the engine builder was really smart, he'd have sorted this out with a file,
BEFORE he screwed the frontplate to the engine...


An idea for the next rebuild, perhaps?
(Guess who's had a similar problem before now?)


Ian

[Spider]

Screwed Plugs perhaps?

[mini_surfari]

With a careful bit of grinding, managed to remove that plug, now all I need to do is whip the oil pump out (as there been a lot of horror stories about said pump) and drop the lump back in!

[swifty]

From what I remember,
it is only obscured by a small amount of the front plate,<SNIP>

Yup, done it that way !! Not too difficult but took the radiator out to gain better access.
Al

If the engine builder was really smart, he'd have sorted this out with a file,
BEFORE he screwed the frontplate to the engine...


An idea for the next rebuild, perhaps?
(Guess who's had a similar problem before now?)


Ian

That's exactly what I did . The larger black bolt is the plug . You can see the front plate with the metal cut to shape . This is one reason why I build my engines myself . . There's a few engine builders around who have a great reputation , but that only comes from people who haven't got the ability to do it themselves ...... Ken

[mk1]

I ahve never felt the need to relieve the front plate, but on the other hand I have never had a gallery plug leak.

[Spider]

I ahve never felt the need to relieve the front plate, but on the other hand I have never had a gallery plug leak.

I can see with what Ken's done, it appears he's fitted a copper washer under the bolt, not a bad idea and that's probably why the need to relieve the plate? I'm of no doubt that works a treat.

I prefer to fit In-hex Plugs, they they do require some care when tapping the Block for them as they really do need to be quite square to get them to seal, none the less, there's no need to relieve the plate;-