ST bumpstops

[wantafaster1]

Or, the hydrolastic ones used on a dry car if you prefer.

Has anyone found a good method of shortening them? I assume that trying to buff them will only melt the rubber and clog up the grinder.

Have had to raise my car away from the bump rubbers to suit the local terrain (!) but have lost a bit of the negative camber. It was at a reasonable height to start with, can now get 4 fingers between the tyre and front arch, I've not got fat fingers lol!

The way it was originally the bumpstops were touching as it sat there on a level concrete floor.

Thanks in advance for any advice offered folks.

[Spider]

A Hachsaw with a course blade would be the best way of cutting them.

You'll ideally want a V block to sit the bump stop in to hold it, then put a single layer of PVC Tape around it where you'd like to cut it, then you'll have a guide to follow, so at least it has a chance of ending up square. Rotate the bump stop a little as you started cutting and start again, just working your way around it.

[davidnutland]

I always thought the whole idea of the progressive St Bumpstop was that the car sat at a ride height where the stop was in contact with the body. I have used them on a dry car and the handling was poor and on a hydrolastic car where the handling was greatly improved.

[ivor badger 2]

Hacksaw or Stanley knife, but wet it first and keep the cut wet.

[rich@minispares.com]

and fit them the right way round

like plastic fans and upside down brake calipers, people nearly always fit these the wrong way round!

[Pete]

I always thought the whole idea of the progressive St Bumpstop was that the car sat at a ride height where the stop was in contact with the body. I have used them on a dry car and the handling was poor and on a hydrolastic car where the handling was greatly improved.

I agree, you don't want them on a dry car and you could get snap oversteer at speed. I fitted shortened ST 'barrels' on a car many years ago and everytime I went down a pothole or hit a drain cover the bump stop would suddenly hit and the battery used to fly up in the air.

(yes it should hav been clamped, and hey we were all young once!! )

[pad4]

I think the main factor is what are you using the car for - lowered circuit car or road car probably not as you will be running around on already primed bump stops - on a raised ride height rally car then I know umpteen people that swear by them - My 8 port runs them and the ride is superb , even on a circuit , on rough lanes they can help even out the choppiness of std dry suspension , cushion the blow of a heavy landing

Bandsaw works as does a hacksaw

pad

[wantafaster1]

Yeah, bumpy roads and rough lanes is the intention. When it was touching the bumpstops originally it felt like it was just bouncing on the tyres. The ride is far far better now, probably just how I like it but then its 15 years since my last competition car.

I don't think I will need all the ground clearance it has, I'm just trying to gain back the camber I've lost. Unless I only need to lower it again but make the tyre pressures much harder than 28psi?

[Spider]

I run them in stock size with dry suspension, however I do ride a tad higher than stock and have a larger flanged Hi-lo than what seem to be generally available. The vehicle they are on does see some god awful roads and track. I swear by the ST Bump Stop for this kind of use / set up.

[gr4h4m]

I run them on a hydro car, IMO it also give a little insurance incase a bag fails in anger.