mk1-forum.net

GraemeC wrote:Rich, do you know where does the proper font in stick on plates?
I was struggling when I last looked.

my sticker man tweeked a font to look period by rounding the edges off

see the photos of my gtm and the 'er' for evidence.

unfortunately he wont make them for retail customers


they look the business though and certainly don't offend the eyes like the Charles wright 2 does...

I decided to take the engine back out after a few short runs due to the problem with the idle speed dropping when the clutch was depressed (see another thread on that). Tight clearances on the primary gear rear bush seems to have been the likely cause but I decided to take the engine back to the short block and re-check various other clearances and settings including the cam-timing. The problem with the bush has made me ultra-cautious. I tweaked and improved a few other things I'd thought of since the first engine build up in the summer. Then back in and the long job of re-connecting begins...

That looks a fantastic car that has been put together really well. I'm sure you will get to the bottom of the problem, and I do admire your thoroughness and commitment. It's so easy to get dis-heartened......we've all been there ( and will probably be there again ! ) with minis. Keep up the good work, see you at Blyton.
Dave

rich@minispares.com wrote:

GraemeC wrote:Rich, do you know where does the proper font in stick on plates?
I was struggling when I last looked.

my sticker man tweeked a font to look period by rounding the edges off

see the photos of my gtm and the 'er' for evidence.

unfortunately he wont make them for retail customers


they look the business though and certainly don't offend the eyes like the Charles wright 2 does...

ive just had a word with my sticker man


he uses the stock number plate font 'Charles wright 2' and rounds the corners of and tweeks it a little


he says its a huge pain in the arse to do!


does look good though!

rich@minispares.com wrote:

rich@minispares.com wrote:

GraemeC wrote:Rich, do you know where does the proper font in stick on plates?
I was struggling when I last looked.

my sticker man tweeked a font to look period by rounding the edges off

see the photos of my gtm and the 'er' for evidence.

unfortunately he wont make them for retail customers


they look the business though and certainly don't offend the eyes like the Charles wright 2 does...

ive just had a word with my sticker man


he uses the stock number plate font 'Charles wright 2' and rounds the corners of and tweeks it a little


he says its a huge pain in the arse to do!


does look good though!

sorry to Hi-Jack your thread, car looks awesome Andy, well impressed, looking forward to seeing the car at Blyton

How are these ?,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261528954851? ... EBIDX%3AIT

billycooper wrote:

sorry to Hi-Jack your thread, car looks awesome Andy, well impressed, looking forward to seeing the car at Blyton

How are these ?,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261528954851? ... EBIDX%3AIT

that looks like 'mandatory' which is a (illegal (on modern cars)) evolution of Charles wright 2

http://www.dafont.com/mandatory.font

still looks wrong for old cars

to me, its one of those hard to sort details that just makes a car

maybe this discussion needs a thread of its own

Very beautiful car you got there great attention to detail. I did notice your cage is bolted in on the rear arches and I noticed no strengthen plates under where the cage sits. Personally I'd strengthen plate either side and welded the cage in. But very nice car bet you can't wait to use it in angry

Thanks
Stephen

Thanks Stephen. I bought the shell ready prepared but I'm happy to report that the plates are welded to the underside of the arch.

I'm hoping to get the car to an MOT very soon (not far to travel as we're an MOT tester).

Andy

What's that from the fuel pump area? Am being dim or is that a breather or something else?

Lakeland997 wrote:Thanks Stephen. I bought the shell ready prepared but I'm happy to report that the plates are welded to the underside of the arch.

I'm hoping to get the car to an MOT very soon (not far to travel as we're an MOT tester).

Andy

Thats good then (y) and good luck with the MOT

bpirie1000 wrote:What's that from the fuel pump area? Am being dim or is that a breather or something else?

Here's another shot perhaps showing the fuel pump arrangement from a better angle.

This is a fantastic reference work and shows many details I have been looking for all in one place. I've just started assembling a Mk 2 cooper , the shell renovation and painting now being complete. I'm interested in your battery cable routing is it drivers side of the tunnel? Don't suppose theres any chance of a higher res view of your wiring diag?
best regards
Jeff

really interesting thread and some nice work going on, a credit to you sir, lovely

Healeyhooley wrote:This is a fantastic reference work and shows many details I have been looking for all in one place. I've just started assembling a Mk 2 cooper , the shell renovation and painting now being complete. I'm interested in your battery cable routing is it drivers side of the tunnel? Don't suppose theres any chance of a higher res view of your wiring diag?
best regards
Jeff

Jeff

The battery cable and the rear harness do indeed go down the RH side of the tunnel mainly because by the time the fuel line, brake line and fire extinguisher line go down the left there's not much room. They pass through the floor crossmember and I tried to use existing holes as much as possible to prevent weakening it.
After they pass the gear lever they both cross back over the tunnel to the left side to avoid the clutch pedal and the driver's footrest. The rear harness meets the front harness in the usual place above the heater and the battery cable passes through the bulkhead above the parcel shelf using a through-panel connector. This connector allows convenient power take-off at that point to feed the auxiliary lamps etc.

PM me with your email address and I'll send you the wiring diagram.

Andy

Lakeland997 wrote:

bpirie1000 wrote:What's that from the fuel pump area? Am being dim or is that a breather or something else?

Here's another shot perhaps showing the fuel pump arrangement from a better angle.

IMG_2344.jpg

why don't you run the filter king in the boot mounted into the rack with the pump?

it seams odd that you have the rack, yet have mounted the filter in the engine bay?

the idea of the filter / regulator in the boot is that you have a long 'bore' of regulated fuel that's not surging / bubbling and defeating the floats on the weber / s.us

also, if there is a problem with the filter, either through leaks or impact damage, there is no danger of it spraying fuel over a hot engine

sensible question (I hope!)

Very sensible question Rich thanks for asking.
I pondered this matter myself for some time and couldn't decide if the regulator would work better close to the carbs or further away. I guess I should have posed the question here for the usual good advice.
I thought that perhaps the further away the regulation then the less effective it may become although that may be more of an issue if the feed line was flexible hose.
It was a more pragmatic reason that caused me to take the front option in the end and that was it also acts as a line reducer from the 8mm feed to the 6mm carb hose.
I can easily move it to the back if you're sure its the best position.

Just saw your post on the gearbox build and upgrades. When building the ultimate 4 synchro remote box, I always use A+ gear kit. You then have to use A+ mainshaft and layshaft with the bigger bearings, you only have to modify the layshaft sligthly to get it in, and use the correct reverse gear.

e-type wrote:Just saw your post on the gearbox build and upgrades. When building the ultimate 4 synchro remote box, I always use A+ gear kit. You then have to use A+ mainshaft and layshaft with the bigger bearings, you only have to modify the layshaft sligthly to get it in, and use the correct reverse gear.

Thanks e-type, I used the A+ mainshaft with the 11/16" nose and the matching first motion shaft. The layshaft was I think a pre A+ but an upgraded one.

What an excellent job sir, your job is a reference for those who want to do something like that. My congratulations.

Time to bring this thread to a close with some finished images and comments (or as finished as something like this ever gets).

A rolling road session on the Friday at Minisport was followed by a first outing at Blyton on the Saturday.
It was a great day and I was relieved that CCC didn't embarrass me by failing to start or dropping anything on the track.
I was 'running in' but have to admit that the red mist descended and I had to make a conscious effort to keep the revs down on the new engine.
The combination of a 649 cam and 1.5 ration rockers was giving great top-end power but it was un-drivable under 3000 revs.
The 1.5 rockers were changed for 1.3 ones as soon as I got home bringing the 'drivable' point down by about 600 rpm.
The other problem that revealed itself was weak synchromesh on second gear so at some point the unit will need to come back out. I'll put some miles on and enjoy it for a while though.