I bought this 1966 Keith Bird rally prepared project from a fellow forum member a few months ago.
I'm intending to build it up to Historic rally spec trying to keep up the standard to match Mr Bird's workmanship.
I've never done a competition car so the learning curve will be steep.
1966 Historic Rally Car
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Lakeland997
- 1275 Cooper S
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1966 Historic Rally Car
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Last edited by Lakeland997 on Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Front and rear suspension started. Mostly standard as per Historic rules.
I think that the Gaz shock absorbers will have to change to something like Spax ('as used in period') according to recent information on the HRCT website. I've decided the rear arms will be coming back off to add bump stops and re-route the brake line underneath.
I think that the Gaz shock absorbers will have to change to something like Spax ('as used in period') according to recent information on the HRCT website. I've decided the rear arms will be coming back off to add bump stops and re-route the brake line underneath.
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Last edited by Lakeland997 on Fri Mar 07, 2014 3:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Gearbox build is underway.
I originally intended this box to go in my 997 but I've decided to stick to helical gears for the road car.
I found a NOS 1128 casing and it set me thinking... could you still build a completely new SC/CR remote box from new/NOS parts?
And so I set out on a foolish (and very expensive) course of action!
This lot took some finding... but then remote change boxes have been out of production for 40 years! Anyone else find that boxes like this are a kind of addiction? And labels like this... Installed. The Minimania videos on YouTube are very helpful in this area.
I originally intended this box to go in my 997 but I've decided to stick to helical gears for the road car.
I found a NOS 1128 casing and it set me thinking... could you still build a completely new SC/CR remote box from new/NOS parts?
And so I set out on a foolish (and very expensive) course of action!
This lot took some finding... but then remote change boxes have been out of production for 40 years! Anyone else find that boxes like this are a kind of addiction? And labels like this... Installed. The Minimania videos on YouTube are very helpful in this area.
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Last edited by Lakeland997 on Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sleep is my favourite thing in the world. It's what gets me out of bed in the morning.
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Yes, that is my blood on the inside of the casing.
If you've ever tried to get those selector shaft locking screws in you'll know...
If you've ever tried to get those selector shaft locking screws in you'll know...
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Richspec
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
very nice, when it was for sale I was thinking about it but umm'd and arrr'd too long!
Wanna see what I'm playing with? Youtube Channel
Caution
may contain 8 Ports, Xe's and VTec's, I don't do standard!
Caution
may contain 8 Ports, Xe's and VTec's, I don't do standard!-
rich@minispares.com
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
the best method of doing those blooming screws up is to buy some old spanners and heat them up and bend them to suit the 'angle of the dangle'
I always locktite them in as well, having once done an entire race stuck in 4th gear when the bolt fell out the 3rd/4th fork!
druids in 4th is not a strong look!
I always locktite them in as well, having once done an entire race stuck in 4th gear when the bolt fell out the 3rd/4th fork!
druids in 4th is not a strong look!
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Gearbox build is pretty much done. About 98% new parts including the remote shift (frustratingly, about four parts eluded me and I had to fit good used items)
Engine currently being machined at MED.
Since this picture was taken I've drilled the flange to take 5/8" fixings. I'm trying a quick-shift lever but have a NOS standard item in case I don't get on with it.
Engine currently being machined at MED.
Since this picture was taken I've drilled the flange to take 5/8" fixings. I'm trying a quick-shift lever but have a NOS standard item in case I don't get on with it.
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slowboy
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
very nice, did you use three sync selector forks [shortened] much stronger and don't open out ? which historic stuff are you looking at doing mate ?
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
No I didn't know about that. Do you mean the 1/2nd gear one (3rd/4th is the same for 3 and 4 synchro I think)?slowboy wrote:very nice, did you use three sync selector forks [shortened] much stronger and don't open out ? which historic stuff are you looking at doing mate ?
I've incorporated every other improvement I knew of but it goes to show you never stop learning even about a car as (relatively) simple as the Mini.
I'm not entirely sure what sort of events I'll be doing. I'm a complete novice to competing in motorsport so, although the car will be largely built to Historic spec, I'm likely to be starting at the bottom.
Advice always welcome.
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
It's been a while since I updated this.
We've been busy though and I'm determined to get this one running this year!
I took inspiration elsewhere on this forum and got on with the dash/A pillar trimming. I don't think my sons are taking this seriously enough Cage is in after a bit of pushing and pulling
We've been busy though and I'm determined to get this one running this year!
I took inspiration elsewhere on this forum and got on with the dash/A pillar trimming. I don't think my sons are taking this seriously enough Cage is in after a bit of pushing and pulling
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
I decided that I wanted to wire in a MK2 column switch to get rid of the dip switch on the floor.
This proved more difficult than I expected as I discovered that the MK2 column is not the same as the MK1.
I managed to get hold of a MK2 column but the inner was badly corroded.
However by drilling and tapping a new hole for the cancelling bolt I was able use my MK1 inner inside the MK2 outer
Image shows the MK1 outer at the top and the MK2 outer below with the modified MK1 inner shaft. .
This proved more difficult than I expected as I discovered that the MK2 column is not the same as the MK1.
I managed to get hold of a MK2 column but the inner was badly corroded.
However by drilling and tapping a new hole for the cancelling bolt I was able use my MK1 inner inside the MK2 outer
Image shows the MK1 outer at the top and the MK2 outer below with the modified MK1 inner shaft. .
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Engine build is taking longer than I expected but is well under way.
I'm afraid I was seduced by many of the lovely products that MED supply!
I'm using a 649+ cam, Minispares 1.5 forged rockers and the MED 37/31mm head.
I'm intending to run it on twin 1.5 SU's initially. It'll be interesting to see how it goes.
Steve and Lee at MED couldn't be more helpful. They prepared two engine kits for me to a very high standard in super quick time and have answered all my questions since. Like the gearbox, the engine is 95% new (not counting the block and head castings) but one re-used part I was particularly proud of was the front plate.
I zinc plated this myself using a Gateros kit.
I'm afraid I was seduced by many of the lovely products that MED supply!
I'm using a 649+ cam, Minispares 1.5 forged rockers and the MED 37/31mm head.
I'm intending to run it on twin 1.5 SU's initially. It'll be interesting to see how it goes.
Steve and Lee at MED couldn't be more helpful. They prepared two engine kits for me to a very high standard in super quick time and have answered all my questions since. Like the gearbox, the engine is 95% new (not counting the block and head castings) but one re-used part I was particularly proud of was the front plate.
I zinc plated this myself using a Gateros kit.
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
A spare Saturday last weekend so my son and I took the opportunity to get the engine in…
Engine bay prepared Ready to go Only five minutes to lower it in But about fifty minutes to attach the lower mounts All done
Engine bay prepared Ready to go Only five minutes to lower it in But about fifty minutes to attach the lower mounts All done
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JC T ONE
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and with some nice details. -
Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Time for an update...
Manifolds on. Hopefully an easy path for the air and fuel Cooling and wiping bits fitted - some work still to do on the wiring! My son's arty picture of the dual master cylinders
Manifolds on. Hopefully an easy path for the air and fuel Cooling and wiping bits fitted - some work still to do on the wiring! My son's arty picture of the dual master cylinders
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GraemeC
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
Looking good! As we chatted about a while age....Must get round have a proper look once work has calmed down
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
One of the reasons I haven't updated the post for a while is that I've been working on the electrics. I seriously underestimated the amount of time required to wire a rally car compared with the standard vehicle.
I decided that I would do this properly and fuse almost every circuit separately and relay all high consuming items.
I also wanted to incorporate a modern electronic battery isolator.
This all means a lot of space is needed that is hard to find on a Mini for relays and fuses - the works cars used the space under the passenger dash. I've done the same but in quite a different manner.
I wanted to work from a wiring diagram but my searches proved fruitless. It's well known that the works cars were wired individually and without diagrams.
So I spent about two months of spare time designing my own and drawing it up on the computer.
I then had it printed out in colour A0 size and pinned it to the workshop wall. Starting with a Mk1 S with alternator harness I unwrapped it. I then re-routed and added in the extra cables trying to keep to authentic colour codes as far as possible Here's the trial fit before taking it all out and wrapping it. Here's my fuse/relay board solution.
I decided that I would do this properly and fuse almost every circuit separately and relay all high consuming items.
I also wanted to incorporate a modern electronic battery isolator.
This all means a lot of space is needed that is hard to find on a Mini for relays and fuses - the works cars used the space under the passenger dash. I've done the same but in quite a different manner.
I wanted to work from a wiring diagram but my searches proved fruitless. It's well known that the works cars were wired individually and without diagrams.
So I spent about two months of spare time designing my own and drawing it up on the computer.
I then had it printed out in colour A0 size and pinned it to the workshop wall. Starting with a Mk1 S with alternator harness I unwrapped it. I then re-routed and added in the extra cables trying to keep to authentic colour codes as far as possible Here's the trial fit before taking it all out and wrapping it. Here's my fuse/relay board solution.
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Mudhen
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
At this point I'm sort of thinking it's not your first time working with electrics... 
Incredible stuff!!!
(love the picture of the kids helping out as well...mine came out to the garage two years ago, chipped a little undercoating off the floor, and I haven't seen them since! It's been nice, actually.
)
Incredible stuff!!!
(love the picture of the kids helping out as well...mine came out to the garage two years ago, chipped a little undercoating off the floor, and I haven't seen them since! It's been nice, actually.
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Lakeland997
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
My wife knows all the kids activities, their best friend's names, their teachers, their likes and dislikes, their hopes, their desires, their dreams.Mudhen wrote:(love the picture of the kids helping out as well...mine came out to the garage two years ago, chipped a little undercoating off the floor, and I haven't seen them since! It's been nice, actually.
She says I'm vaguely aware that some small people live in our house.
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Jono
- 998 Cooper
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Re: 1966 Historic Rally Car
...never mind it could have been worse
(Lotus dash)
(Lotus dash)
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