mk1-forum.net

Great stuff. Thanks for the info

The new A-post took a little bit of work at each end to get it fitting nicely but I got it welded on eventually.


The LH flitch only needed the MK3 wiper indent removing which sped things up a bit.




After a lot of fitting, removing, drilling, welding and grinding the flitches are on which is a nice sight.




I also salvaged the original radiator shroud and welded it on.


The new front panel is a generic pre '76 part needs modifying to MK1 spec.


A MK1 front panel should have separate end sections in the grill opening so I made a template and transferred it to the panel before trimming the MK3 air vent piece away.




I used an original end fillet as a template to make two shinny new ones.


A few plug welds and a little linishing and it's looking like the real deal.




Another piece that is incorrect on the new front panels is the size of the indicator plinth which was increased on the latter cars. Fortunately I kept the originals so that I could reinstate them.


After trimming the excess steel from the old plinth I lined it up on the new panel and marked the section that I need to cut.


I used an air hacksaw to cut the MK3 plinth off and sat the MK1 plinth in.


The surrounding steel needed a little work with a hammer and dolly but eventually I got it sat flush all the way around and tacked in.


Even more welding and linishing latter and the bulk of the MK1 conversion work is done.

Loving the attention to detail, keep up the good work

NotNormal wrote:Loving the attention to detail, keep up the good work

Thank you.

Today was slam panel day.
Being a generic panel the holes for the bonnet buffer on the LH side are a bit rough and there was one too many holes on the RH side.




After a bit of filing and welding they're back to how they should be.




I had a bit of a dilema when it came to the centre of the slam panel where the bonnet latch bolts on. The holes would work despite being ovaled but the shape of the raised section isn't nearly as well defined as the original MK1 panel is.


The centre of the original panel could have been cut out and welded into the new one but I thought I'd indulge in a but of fabrication and make a new piece starting with a card template.


Here's the new piece after a lot of fiddling.


A quick comparison between the three centre sections.


It's now welded in and I think it looks very close to the original.


Having removed the slam panel brace earlier and I noticed that it was a different shape to the original one so I cleaned it up and reshaped it before reinstating it.




Another flaw with the new panel was the lack of studs for mounting the horn so I made a new pair up using some 2BA screws and washers and brazed them on.




The final piece in the puzzle was to add a sliver of steel to the centre of the grill opening as the new panel was higher than the original.




Thanks for reading.

Incredible work and an enormous passion for details.

Wow

so long
the Doc

I could spend my main fortnights holiday working in your 'shop. I love the craftsmanship and incredible attention to detail you demonstrate. Cheers. Mark

Tupers,

I am constantly staggered by your attention to detail & the superb level of your craftsmanship!

I can't wait for the next installment.

M

Hi Tupers. I notice your FE number is 1068668, or thereabouts (can't quite read it). When was it built, because I know a December 1966 Super Deluxe(Austin) with an FE number 1071846, just 3000ish difference. However your title says 1967? Do these FE numbers follow any pattern?

Great work btw. Makes me wonder how far I need to go with my front end. It's a later replacement and I don't have original indicator holes to weld in, so will the later bigger ones work with the old lenses? Also how did you make the piece for the latch, did you just hammer it into shape? And did you do both ends behind the grill? Finally, what's the funny bulge you cut out at the bottom right of the end to be filled, is that how it is?

Many thanks and apologies for all the questions.

Dr.Mabo wrote:Incredible work and an enormous passion for details.

Wow

so long
the Doc

mk1 wrote:Tupers,

I am constantly staggered by your attention to detail & the superb level of your craftsmanship!

I can't wait for the next installment.

M

Thanks chaps. I used to do a lot of model making so I'm happy doing small intricate work, plus it's fun to see how close I can get to factory piece.
I do wonder if I'm going a bit far sometimes but when you're replacing so many panels it's easy to lose a lot of a MK1 features if you're not careful.

rolesyboy wrote:I could spend my main fortnights holiday working in your 'shop. I love the craftsmanship and incredible attention to detail you demonstrate. Cheers. Mark

Well if you're ever in Newton Abbot feel free to pop in, there always seems something interesting going on.

BLT wrote:Hi Tupers. I notice your FE number is 1068668, or thereabouts (can't quite read it). When was it built, because I know a December 1966 Super Deluxe(Austin) with an FE number 1071846, just 3000ish difference. However your title says 1967? Do these FE numbers follow any pattern?

Great work btw. Makes me wonder how far I need to go with my front end. It's a later replacement and I don't have original indicator holes to weld in, so will the later bigger ones work with the old lenses? Also how did you make the piece for the latch, did you just hammer it into shape? And did you do both ends behind the grill? Finally, what's the funny bulge you cut out at the bottom right of the end to be filled, is that how it is?

Many thanks and apologies for all the questions.

I'm not sure on the FE number to be honest, they've always been a bit of mystery to me. Maybe they were different between factories?

MK1 indicators will screw onto the later front panel fine but you end up with a flat ring around it because the MK1 lens has a smaller diameter. I think M-machine have started making the MK1 indictor plinths so it's not a problem if you haven't got the originals. I only used mine as I had them to hand.

With the latch piece I started out by folding the lip that's at the back of the panel. Then I clamped it in a vice and made the two bends that point up by gently hammering it over the vices jaws. The final two bends at the top were done by hammering the edge over on a miniature anvil although a block of steel or wood would also work.

Both ends behind the grill were replaced. You can see how both ends match on the original front panel that I repaired for James's Crayford.


I'm not sure what you mean by the bulge in the bottom right? Were you referring to the one in the bottom corner of the grill opening? That section is cut on the original MK1 panels presumably because the the tight bend in that corner could have rippled the steel.

Don't worry about asking questions, it's the best way of learning.

Chris

As many others here on the forum have mentioned your attention to detail is astounding.

Keep up the good work!!!!!!

Wow it's been a while since I've checked in! How about a little update?

The front panel and inner wings were done but before anything else could happen with the front end the doors needed repairing and the A-panels needed fitting.

I started with the rather gammy front corner of the drivers door frame.




The bottom of the frame was also pretty nasty so it got chopped out and I folded up a new section.




From there it was a bit of simple welding and linishing.




Now onto the full A-panels from M-Machine. They need a little tweaking around the edges but I got there in the end and they make for a much tidier job than the other panels available.




Fortunately the passengers door was in a bit better nick and only needed some small repair sections making and a few pin holes welding up.




More of the same for this side. The final door gapping wont happen until the rest of the front is on.




The inner A-paenls and scuttle panel were up next after plugging the two spare wiper holes.




So with the inner structure done it was finally time to get the front panel and wings fitted up. Not many pictures of this as I'm sure we all know what a Mini looks like.

The front's done but the rear panel still needed some love. The bumper rail had dissolved right the way across so it was time for more chopping.




When I replace the boot floor at the start of this thread I had to remove the old loom tabs so I took this opportunity to reinstate some new ones.




Then the new section of rear panel went in.


I made my own corner sections by folding up some sheet steel and then curving them using my shrinker/stretcher.




Once the shape was right the body was cut and the new corner sat in place.




Same again for the other side.


A little welding and linishing and they're on for good.






I also made a little repair section for the bottom of the LH rear quarter.




The final hole to fill was on the RH rear quarter so I cracked on with making a new section.


After making a template and transferring the shape onto steel I turned the edge with a hammer and few different shaped blocks and trimmed it to size.






Here it is after welding, linishing and DAing ready for some final finishing and then bodywork.

Last major piece in this Mini shaped puzzle is the boot lid. Both the bottom of the skin and frame of the original lid were badly rotten so something had to be done.




I didn't fancy forking out of a Heritage one that isn't the right shape and didn't want to risk buying another rotten lid so I decided to cut the bottom off a solid MK3 lid I had and splice it into the original panel.


The lower section of the old skin was used as a template on the MK3 lid before the whole bottom section was chopped off.




The big issue with the MK3 lid was the recess for the number plate that needed removing.



I slipped a thin spoon down between the skin and frame and then gently planished the fold at the bottom and sides of the recess until the skin had pulled put enough to match the MK1 lid.


Here's the result.


After trimming the frame to match on the inside I popped the two section together with some Clecos and bolted everything to the car to check the fit.


A little more trimming to the skin and the welding began.


The frame it 99% done as well and just needs a few more seams doing before it gets hit with the linishing stick.

That looks some great work.

Nice to see repair sections being made to fit rather than replace whole panels for the sake of small areas of rot.

Certainly has given me some ideas about how to rescue a Mk1 bootlid

Andrew

Awesome work as usual!

Genius

Tasty repairs Tupers

Bloody hell, I've never seen a bootlid repaired that way before! Very skillful, and creative ! (PS sent you a PM Tupers)

Wow that all I can say....Wow

astonishing work!!!


congratulations!