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So whats the best way to get it into the cross member? There is only a few access places from what I can see, and they are only at either end?

This evening I set about repairing my pedal box. I had to drill the nuts off to get the master cylinders off, subsequently I was left with this to repair!



Pedal box all fixed, and other odds and sods painted up.



A few more bits fitted up.



Master cylinder stripped, cleaned, and repainted. Im hoping the colour is somewhat close to what it should be (a kind of champagne colour?).

So whats the best way to get it into the cross member? There is only a few access places from what I can see, and they are only at either end?

you can get a wax oil spray gun which has a long flexible spray nozzle, its about 18" and it sprays a mist, at 360 degres. It can be fed in all the holes.

I tend to use wd 40 now in sills the idea being that the oil will run between the sill and floor joints, as wax oil won't. But it would need re doing more often.
If you fill the sills with wax oil first, it will probably stop any wd40 oil getting to the seam joints.

You could spray wd round the rear arches as well and it should get in to the wheel arch seams to.

Ah that doesn't sound too difficult to do then.

Whats the best way of removing waxoyl overspray without damaging paint, im guessing its not the cleanest of jobs to do?

The way I do the cross member is to use my very thin magic wand (Oh Err Mrs) that will squeeze down the flutes in the floor under the cross member, doing it this way means the whole thing gets a good covering.

In my experience Waxoyl isn't the best stuff to use, as it sort of cracks as it dries out I have however had very good results with Dinitrol, this is much thinner than wayoyl when its injected & seems to set harder when it goes off. Its still a good idea to do it every 2 years or so. (He says, I have never managed to get round to it though).

Name plug time I'm afraid.
Bilt Hamber do a cavity wax in a huge aerosol can which comes with a long lance / tube which has the 360 degree nozzle on one end.
The wax is very fine and even stabilises any rust that is present usually in the A and B posts.
Got a couple of cans ready for when the Woody comes home from the sprayshop.
Worth a look on their site to see all the other (rust related) products.

Cavity wax is what you want opposed to wax oil, cavity wax is very thin and will get absolutely everywhere within a box section.

Brown brother sell them with long lances, the lance is very thin and can get through most gaps flutes etc

very similar to this

That Dynax S50 seems like good stuff - I've emptied a few cans into the GT. It was still flowing (and dripping out of the sills) for days so I expect/hope it has done a good job of wicking into the nooks and crannies too. The flexi tubes are about 1m long so will get most places without drilling extra holes.

Thanks for all the advice/options. I'll have a look into them and see whats what.

Here's how its looking now, slowly but surely its getting there!

I bought some new bumpers today, as mine are beyond repair. I spent the best part of an hour drilling out the rusty bolts that hold the over riders on to find that the new bumpers are COMPLETELY different in profile and they don't fit. The new bumpers just look wrong, they seem to be too chunky compaired to the old ones.

I don't think there are any bumpers that fit which is why 5 stud ones sell for such stupid money when they come up for sale. I can't see why it's so difficult to make them to the original pattern but it seems that it is.

I have fitted over riders and corner bars on my bumpers they fit quite well. BUT the bumpers were nos rover ones, pre 1997 stainless type.

Hi guys, its been a while since I updated this. Not too much to take pictures of as ive mainly been working on the non visable stuff like wiring, getting the engine running and all the other time consuming jobs...

Here's what its looking like now. Im hoping to get the second door and bonnet it paint tomorrow, then thats all the painting done!

Bonnet and door colelcted from soda blasters. They are surprsingly solid which is a relief!









Boot lid all painted up and fitted.



Switch panel cleaned up and painted



Wheels collected from powder coaters, tyres being fitted tomorrow.





My seats needed a little TLC...I managed to get hold of some pirelli webbing and made up some new webbing.





I just need to make up some wire brackets for the last webb as these were missing.



Carpet now fitted, sorry for the rubbish pic, will upload some better ones when the seat are in.

Matt, looking awesome, you've got the skillz to pay da billz

Almost there!

Crikey. At first glance i saw a Pick Up. Must go see the opticians soon.
All that hard graft is finally bearing fruit. Looking great.

This has been an absolutely amazing read. To bring a car from the condition it was to the standard and spec you have it now is commendable - if there was a medal for car restoration you surely deserve it!
Can't wait to see the finished article.

Matty,
I am speechless !

Well ive managed to get the engine sorted after no compression on one of the cylinders. It turns out it was just a sticking valve that had burnt out. Im releived to say the least that the engine doesn't have to come out!

Engine is 99.9999% done, just need to source a carb elbow to fit the filter.

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg50 ... eo0012.mp4

Great rebuild thread this, what a transformation.

If you have any spare seat webbing left I'd be very grateful for any as mine are very poor.

Cheers

Pete

Cheers Pete.

I have a small offcut left, how much do you need?

I can get some more from a local upholsterer, I need to pick up some card to build my door cards anyway. Pirelli webbing isn't cheap mind, I think it was about £4 a meter. Took 7 meters to do both seats.

Matty wrote:Cheers Pete.

I have a small offcut left, how much do you need?

I'd say I need enough to do one seat , maybe less as some are still reasonable.

Cheers