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timmy201 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2024 5:51 am There’s a good cutout view here. Ideally the throw out bearing will be as close as possible to the clutch diaphragm, then the slave cylinder will be close to the start of it’s travel. This gives a longer service life accounting for future wear
https://www.moke.com.au/in-the-garage/g ... the-clutch
IMG_2586.jpeg

As mentioned above one good option is to put a washer on befor the throw out bearing. A few mm on the short side of the clutch arm makes a huge difference due to the leverage ratio (I also had a hardened sleeve pressed into the plunger so the arm would wear first as the arm is much easier to change

That is a great article - thanks for sharing

Thinking on my feet here, if that was me, I would make the ball end a horizontal round bar a slightly wider width. And make the hole in the plunger a square section from above to suit the new bar shaped lever end.

That way you would have a, say, 1/2" round area of the lever operating inside the suitably shaped plunger opening. A greater area and the full width of the bottom of the modified arm rolling within the plunger. Greater contact area = less wear.

Piss poor description there..... Maybe I should have drawn what I mean!

It'd be a whole different ball game but in the meantime, whenever my clutch arm is out I make sure that the ball and corresponding hole in the plunger are liberally packed with graphite. So much that it spreads is way along the working area of the plunger within the clutch cover. Worked well so far!

Peter, have a look on Minispares site where they have what you have described = Competition Clutch Arm at the cost of £97

Yep....., that's JUST what I was dreaming up! But in my head, mine was less that £100! A greater operating area across the whole of the flat instead of a ball.

Peter had mentioned a remote clutch bleeder valve set-up can anyone help me with that feed .
Thanks
John

I seem to recall that it was designed by one of the Scottish contingent. BRILLIANT idea too. I will sketch and/or photograph mine id necessary

These are pics that I kept from a post, which as a few people including Peter have suggested

Thanks Andy. Picture 2, blue car, is exactly how I have done mine. BEST mod that I have done

Maybe the blue picture ought to be put onto 'The Knack' page. I'm not sure about the stability of the first method. But if it works.......

Thanks again

Is the slave cylinder genuine or not?

I had a non gen and couldn't get enough travel so extended the pushrod, once replaced with a genuine slave I reverted back to a regular length.

mini_surfari wrote: ↑Tue Nov 19, 2024 12:48 pm Is the slave cylinder genuine or not?

I had a non gen and couldn't get enough travel so extended the pushrod, once replaced with a genuine slave I reverted back to a regular length.

Something else to check then, no it was a Minispares one but I do have a NOS one in my store for the 1071.

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Tue Nov 19, 2024 9:48 am Thanks Andy. Picture 2, blue car, is exactly how I have done mine. BEST mod that I have done

Maybe the blue picture ought to be put onto 'The Knack' page. I'm not sure about the stability of the first method. But if it works.......

Thanks again

The only thing that I wondered about was that the blue car hasn't got the solenoid fitted, whereas mine will have Peter.

Mine has the solenoid too. But there's plenty of space. Note the front end of the new bleeder is clamped to a clutch cover bolt. I silver soldered a flat bit of stainless to the nut thinggy

I had the same prob years ago. Turned out that the crank moved towards the radiator. Getsome one, your wife, to sit in the car, engine off and you underneath it with your hand on the bottom pulley. Now ask her go press the clutch pedal (the one on the left). If you can feel that the pulley is moving, that's your problem. Bigger problem is that the only way to cure it is to strip the engine down. The center thrusts need either replacing or fit +003 ones. The gap should be 2 thou. Good luck, hope I'm wrong and that this is not the prob for you. R

whistler wrote: ↑Sat Nov 16, 2024 11:47 am I had a similar problem with my 1098 build. Cured it with an adjustable slave pushrod. I follow a lot of AC Dodd's posts on FB and it seems a lot of the new clutch diaphragms need setting up on the flywheels as regard the height of the 3 spacers and the back plate horns.

This my thinking as well, the horns on new back plates are often wrong length and differing heights you have to be your own QA on new parts you buy these days…Does not explain issue with old parts, but as others have said a build up of small tolerance issues, on new parts may also be contributing.

Thanks Andy
I will be fitting mine using picture #2
Cheers
John