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1071 S wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 3:41 am I usually ignore these posts these days because I've posted the solution before an no one has ever come back with a positive reaction .... so I guess it just works for me.

I once complained of this condition to an Old and Bold ex BMC apprentice and he showed me a simple solution (after I'd gone down all the (expensive) new components./rebuild routes to no avail). A Morris Minor front trunnion bush (at least that's what he called what he sold me) shoved ridged edge upwards on the bottom of the gear lever. Re-install lever and relax in peace...

When I installed a QuikShift I found the trunnion bush doesn't work; its too short... you need a custom length of heater hose instead. This a slightly more complex operation as you have to determine the correct length of hose. Too short = vibration and too long = interferes with the actual shift... It needs to be juuuust right.

Its probably not acceptable to the originally crowd ... but no one will ever know if you don't take the shift boot off

Cheers, Ian

1071 S wrote: ↑Thu May 14, 2020 8:57 am If you're interested I could go and dig it out and measure the bush?

That one lasted 8 or 10 years and was only swapped out when I acquired a Quikshift..

The bit of hose on the Qshift has been there since the late 90s.

Cheers, Ian

1071bob wrote: ↑Tue May 12, 2020 8:43 pm
It's not a new modification, I've seen it done with knuckle pin rubber boots. The early gearsticks had a larger ball on the end which was a metal to metal contact with lower socket. You need to damp the movement between the two parts. I used the mini trackrod end boot because it had two grooves which enabled me to tywrap it tight to the 'stick and socket. Some heavy grease inside would help to.

IslandBlue wrote: ↑Thu May 14, 2020 3:24 pm

1071 S wrote: ↑Thu May 14, 2020 8:57 am If you're interested I could go and dig it out and measure the bush?

That one lasted 8 or 10 years and was only swapped out when I acquired a Quikshift..

The bit of hose on the Qshift has been there since the late 90s.

Cheers, Ian

Thanks, yes when you have a moment, would give an idea for the right length of hose as well. Is there space to secure the bush with a tie wrap or two if you slit the bush to fit it? I think forcing the bush over the ball end was an issue.
Cheers
Stewart

360gts wrote: ↑Sun May 10, 2020 2:30 pm First, nice 997....looks great.

The noise....there are a few things that can be done to help get rid of the annoying rattle.
You could do two of the three fixes...

The rattle is caused by vibration...this is transmitted down the remote housing and up through the gear lever.
The vibration is exaggerated by loose components (worn)

Attaching a couple of pictures showing what can be done to get rid of the vibration.

1. Most owners overlook the diff housing when rebuilding the unit....the two bronze bushings (# 3) end up with an oval wear pattern....these should be replaced on any rebuild...Unfortunately, you won't be able to replace these now.

The following can be done without removing the engine...just remove the remote housing.

2. The rubber washers on the bell crank shaft....these are quite important,.....they act like a damper......and the shaft should also be changed...
this is high wear area.

3. This is a mod we have always done...even on the later MK1 with the rubber damper gear lever.
We drill and tap the remote housing (at the arrow)
Then we add the same anti vibration bits (# 17, 18, 19 and 20)….Circled in orange....these parts are readily available from suppliers like Somerford.

Worth a try.