Verto flywheel will not budge...

[tomkidd]

How do Gents

We're having issues getting my verto flywheel off. I have a Sykes-Pickavant flywheel puller, and the amount of pressure used to turn the nut has just about stripped the threads in the puller.

We have tried tightening it up and then giving it a smack but it just won't budge.

Any other tricks of the trade?

Tom

[Ronnie]

Heat the flywheel boss! when you have the weight on.

[Austin Costin]

Tip a kettle full of boiling water over the nose whilst under pressure and shock it with a hammer and drift.

[mk1]

Which threads are in danger of stripping?

This is not a great state of affairs & could do to be addressed first!

Having said that. As has already been said, the thing to try next is to get good tension up on the flywheel & then add some heat to hopefully expand the flywheel a little, a blow lamp should be adequate, get it good & hot then clout it HARD!

This method has never failed me yet.

Of course the trick to getting a flywheel off OK is to make sure it goes on perfectly. If a flywheel is lapped in with fine grinding paste then brasso cleaned up perfectly & torqued up correctly there is very little danger of it welding itself to the crank. Funnily enough this is usually caused by the flywheel moving on the end of the taper!

[tomkidd]

Cheers guys.

Here are some pics. I've left the big bolt in the end of the crank so as to protext the end of the crank, but its not tightened up so the flywheel can move if it needs to.

Where should I be smacking it? I've tried smacking the dark grey part with a chisel when its under pressure and still nothing.
We tried a hydraulic puller lastnight but the triangular part of the puller doesn't line up with the verto clutch pattern.

Its even started to bend the main bolt of the puller...

[sclemow]

Get an aluminium drift and smack the flywheel through the starter motor hole from the engine side, as mentioned before, after heating it.

[mk1]

Or use a great big copper hammer or similar.

[tomkidd]

I have a masonary hammer... ?

[1071 S]

Here in Oz we use a nice piece of ironbark.....

Cheers, Ian

PS I second Mark's careful lapping of the flywheel onto the crank..but make sure that the flywheel bore and crank end are scrupulously cleaned afterwards..

[guru_1071]

Get an aluminium drift and smack the flywheel through the starter motor hole from the engine side, as mentioned before, after heating it.

thats a sure way to wreck a verto clutch - the only bit you can hit is the spring - so you will bend it and throw it all out of balance.

the only way to get a stuck verto off is a decent big puller, carefull aplication of heat / cold and a little bit of luck!

p.s, for insperation.....


http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... 0&nmt=Damn Flywheel&mid=38818

[tomkidd]

The flywheel and clutch are both being binned as the clutch has oil on it and I am going to pre-verto

[mk1]

Dont know about Verto's as I have never had or worked on one, but a single good hard tup from a soft faced hammer has never damaged any of my own "normal" flywheels so as I have noticed.

Although I can imagine that repeated whacking, particularly with a steel hammer will eventually damage same.

[JanWulf]

I've always had success with firmly tieing the engine to the ground. Heating up the flywheel hub and tighten the puller bolt with a veeeeerry long extension with a neat impulse (hope that's understandable; tigthening it with a short, powerfull impulse, rather than slowly applying loads of torque - if that makes sense!?).

[sclemow]

sorry poor advice then. I assumed you can get to the rest of the flywheel as with a non-verto clutch. Sorry!

[tomkidd]

The little bar steward has now budged!

I had to take the engine down to the local mini garage who had a bigger puller and an air chisel. We put ALOT of pressure using a big bar on the puller and then used the air chisel on the boss... ratta tat tat and it popped off! Hooray!

[guru_1071]

The little bar steward has now budged!

I had to take the engine down to the local mini garage who had a bigger puller and an air chisel. We put ALOT of pressure using a big bar on the puller and then used the air chisel on the boss... ratta tat tat and it popped off! Hooray!

the air chisel is a neat trick

[chris-pilling]

That hydrolic puller would have got it off if it was a pre verto but i didnt know there was a difference in spacings from verto to pre apart from the thread difference.. i had all my monkey strength on it with toms puller so much so it started to cross thread. id never been beaten before! ha! but you really need a proper puller with a locator in the crank! its not really great tightening them up on a bolt! pluss lapping them on first is advantageous. glad terry go it off for you tom, i was a bit worried it was going to take a bit away with it! was it ok? no damage i hope!