Solid Engine mounts

[tomkidd]

Gents

Is it worth using solid engine mounts on my hillclimber or would poly ones be ok? I've never been in a car with solid ones and have only ever used rover ones before...

Ta

Tom

[Spitz]

What would the advantage be??

I can see it putting a bunch of unnecessary stress on the mounting points on the engine, possibly cracking...maybe the subframe too?
Maybe poly and / or an "ultimate" engine steady on top and left/right steady bars on the bottom will get the stability you're after.

[graham in aus]

Sometimes used on racecars when an 'internal' rod change shift is used, engine movement could compromise gear selection?

[mk1]

Tom,

stick with standard engine mounts & an ultimate engine steady kit, solids are a real pain & poly ones are all rubbish.

[tomkidd]

Cheers guys.

The reason I was wondering was because the internal gear linkage I am running, I've been told that I need to eliminate any movement.

[guru_1071]

, I've been told

pub talk

[tomkidd]

Ha ha

[YMJ]

rubber on the bottom, solid or poly on the top (one only in the original place).
If you're using a remote as well, even better.
This is not set in stone but just has worked well for me in the past.
Where I have used a rod change or modified rod change (e.g. inside the car with UJs), I also use a rubber mounted bottom arm from the diff housing to the subframe

[wil_h]

I have solid mounts on my hillclimber, it makes it noisy and horrible. BUT, the gear change is the best I've ever had in a mini and when going on and off the throttle you don't get that lurching that you sometimes get.

You will need a solidy mounted engine with the selector that you have or the movement of the engine will just pull it out of gear. A rose-jointed top mount and decent lower mounts should be enough I'd have thought.

I should add that I used the MS solid mounts and they needed additional strenghtening. I also seam welded the subframe around the mounting points as it started pulling that to bits. But it's fine now.

[sandman]

If you're running an internal ("Miglia type") solid mounted gear-change - you must have a "solid" engine, otherwise you'll just end up mishifting, breaking the linkage or even worse have the engine popping outta gears...

And when using solid mounts - you must ensure that the engine is completely solid/dead... get a little flexing and you'll end up breaking a mount or two.

[guru_1071]

dont forget that Tom aims to use his car as a road car, to drive to events.

solid engine mounts may be ok in a race car, but on a road car...............

[tomkidd]

Yes as Rich says...

The rules don't allow me to seam weld the subframes either. I might try decent rubber bottom ones and solid/poly everywhere else first.

Thanks for your thoughts gents

[chris-pilling]

polly engine mounts, polly bush the two standard engine steadys, two rear gearbox steadys half rosejointed and half polly bushed (what i use), and one of those wood and pickett engine steadies that mounts to the water pump bolts, they look a lot more inkeeping with an old car as apposed to those minging ultimate engine steadys.. this is what i use and i have not harshness or movement from the engine even though its as tight as a drum skin.. use this setup tom and it will be fine for the road and track and you wont have movement that could pull it out of gear because your using a internal linkage. simples