Engine installation with Maniflow?

[Benny]

I'm perhaps a week away from installing the engine in my '61, and this will be the first time I've installed an engine in a Mini. Is it possible to install the unit with the Maniflow Cooper-style manifold installed?

Would this be the preferred way to go about it, or is it just easier to install the manifold after the fact?

[ricardo]

How are you going to install the engine? If from the top, I'd leave the manifold to be fitted later as the end of the pipe may get in the way. If you're going to drop the shell on the subframe/engine, I'd already have the manifold in place.

I've done it both ways with an original manifold. Fitting it after the engine is installed requires (in most cases) to remove the drive coupling and release the upper engine steady bar to pull the engine against the front of the car. In my case, also had to remove the rocker cover and a couple of manifold studs. It's tight but it's doable.

[Benny]

I'll be installing it from above. My main concern was how difficult it would be the get the manifold down-pipe down into position. My car has the later pot-joints, so I'm not sure if that makes the clearance any better/worse.

If the manifold isn't too difficult to install on its own, then I'll leave it off for ease of maneuverability with the engine and gearbox. However, if the manifold is difficult, it might be worth a try.

[ricardo]

I have no idea with the pot joints, but I can't see it being more difficult. Lets see what others have to say.

[Spider]

Fitting it after the engine is installed requires (in most cases) to remove the drive coupling and release the upper engine steady bar to pull the engine against the front of the car. In my case, also had to remove the rocker cover and a couple of manifold studs. It's tight but it's doable.

I've also sometimes had to let off the RH or both engine mounts and slide the engine forward a little, then again, that may have been because of the Inboard CVs (Pot Joints). Obviously, when fitting at the time of an engine installation, fit them up before bolting the engine down.

[CooperTune]

If running pot joints leave the RH one out till after the manifold is in place. Makes it much easier as pots are fat and get in the way. For sure get it in before attaching the dog bones upper , lower or both. If the pots and all the oil is in you can jack the RH side higher than left and pull the pot. Steve (CTR)

[ivor badger]

If its a 61, it will have the original gear change and you will find it hard enough to get the engine in from the top with no manifold. So leave it off and fit it on before bolting up the engine mounts.

[Benny]

If its a 61, it will have the original gear change and you will find it hard enough to get the engine in from the top with no manifold. So leave it off and fit it on before bolting up the engine mounts.

It's not the original gearbox....it's a late model, rod change gearbox.

[mk1]

I would definitely fit the engine first then slide the manifold in after. I have done this many times & have never had any real problems.

M

[1071 S]

Far be it from me to gainsay the experts, however......

I would be very careful. I haven't tried a M'flow freeflow but I can confirm that a M'flow LCB cannot be fitted (intact) once the engine is installed..... even with the subframe out of the car.

Similarly I have not been able to fit a standard S manifold with the engine in place. The "hook" at the end will not fit down between the engine and subframe with the manifold in its correct orientation - and you can't turn it side ways because the end downpipes get in the way before it can be lowered far enough for the bottom to clear the subframe...

I hang the manifold at against the fire wall (pretty much where it will end up when assembled) suspended from a loop of string passing around the wiper bosses. Once the engine is on the mounts you can wiggle it onto the studs and away you go.

Cheers, Ian

[Benny]

I hang the manifold at against the fire wall (pretty much where it will end up when assembled) suspended from a loop of string passing around the wiper bosses. Once the engine is on the mounts you can wiggle it onto the studs and away you go.

Thanks Ian,

That sounds like a good approach. I'll experiment with allof these ideas, and report back on my experiences.

[In the shed]

I've got a feeling that I remember having problems with this and getting very upset about it. I think it resulted in the manifold being held against the firewall and the engine lowered in front of it!.

In fact, now I remember how upset I was! Lots of swearing!

[Ollie78]

Ian's idea sounds like a good one, wish I had thought of that. I have had tantrums fitting and removing the maniflow freeflow manifold and scratched the paintwork. They are horrible to fit.

[In the shed]

You can almost almost do it, but you can't. You think you can and things get damaged. Then you have the trauma (if you are by yourself) of trying to work the engine crane, hold the manifold and direct the engine with 2 hands.

At the first opportunity, I drop the whole subframe and everything out. No mucking around, no ruined knuckles, no bent parts, no swearing, heartache and anger.

Build it all in the subframe, balance the subframe in the right place, get a mate and a wheelarch each and put the car on the subframe.

Done.

[Benny]

You can almost almost do it, but you can't. You think you can and things get damaged.

Sweet, I love stuff like that (rolls his eyes). I used to own an E-type, and nearly the entire car was that way....as if that was the way they WANTED it when it was on the drawing board.

Needless to say, I got pretty good at working through these issue with that car.

[1071 S]

"......At the first opportunity, I drop the whole subframe and everything out..."

Be careful.... as I said, I haven't tried with a freeflow but the LCB won't fit between the engine and subframe even with the s'frame removed from the car..

Maybe the shorter tail of the freeflow will allow juuuuusstt enough room.

Cheers, Ian

[CooperTune]

Nothing new for me. I'm confused as to which manifold you are using. The 1 pc. C-STR816 is for a small bore engine and is about 3/8 inches shorter than a 1275 manifold. I have not tried to fit one of these to a large bore engine. I'd suspect by now you have it all together. Steve (CTR)

[Benny]

I'm confused as to which manifold you are using. The 1 pc. C-STR816 is for a small bore engine and is about 3/8 inches shorter than a 1275 manifold.

Yes, I have the C-STR816.

I have seen them described as 'small bore' manifolds before, but then I often see them recommended for fairly mild big bore units up to about 85 hp (see Calver article below). They also get included in most of the so-called 'Stage-1 kits' that MiniSpares offers for the 1275.

Do people find that they need to cut, and extend these manifolds for 1275's, or do they fit as-is? Is there a big-bore version of this manifold offered?

http://www.minimania.com/part/C%2DSTR81 ... INI-COOPER

[Lord Croker]

I don't know whether this applies to the 3-branch manifold, but it may be something to check, I once refitted an engine & rod change box into a Mini with the LCB downpipes attached to the head, it was all very easy & before I had finished congratulating myself on the speed with which it all went together, I then removed the downpipes, inlet manifold, carbs etc, in order to fit the bolt that holds the gearchange steady bar to the diff case!