cooper s crank pulley bolts

[dgear1984]

Hello,

I am currently rebuilding my cooper s block and I have the two piece crank pulley and damper (12a367 & c-aeg454).

I see minispares sell a special lockwasher for these items c-aht146 which is used with the statndard bolt and also a uprated cap head c-aht147 to be used without the lock washer

Which way would you guys recommend fitting the crank pulley? with the special lock tab and standard bolt or with the cap head?

I spoke to minispares and they said all the racers use the cap head, so recommended that, although this is not being built as a race engine so I thought i would enquire before ordering.

Thanks Dave

[rich@minispares.com]

just use the normal bolt and the c-aht146 star washer, its all I ever used on my race car and its never been an issue as the bolt cannot come undone.


the cap head bolt has its uses as its so much longer, but on a normal s pulley its not an issue, you only tend to need it if your running a 36-1 or something like that that needs a bit more length to either hold it all together or take advantage of the smaller diameter of the head of the bolt.

[Vegard]

Lock washer= big no!
Loc-tite= big yes!

[CooperTune]

With the shortage of 1 pc. dampers I used the MSC two part S set up on everything. Using the loc plate I like to use Loc Tite and the proper torque followed by the plate then high grade flat washers, loc washers and grade 8 bolts also installed with proper torque and red loc tite. Do not be talked into over torqueing that fastener ( large center bolt ) or any others for that matter.

I have noticed some are using verto flywheel bolts with the loc tab machined off and shortened a bit to get more thread engagement. Make very sure it does not bottom out in crank if you go that way. While not rocket sicence there are forces at work many of us are unaware of till they bite us. Steve (CTR)

[Smiffy]

I've always used a cut down vert flywheel bolt, you need to take off about 3/8" of the threaded end to stop it bottoming out. Offers more thread engagement and fitted with loc-tite I've not had a problem since.

[ianh1968]

You could try this, the hex is 3/4":
http://www.minimania.com/part/C-12A283/ ... -BOLT-MINI
... expensive, but nice!


I have some of the MiniSpares allen screw type spare, if anyone is interested.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search

The "thread" has been discussed here before, but just as a reminder it is:
5/8" x 16 TPI Whitworth Form (55 Degrees)

[mk1]

I have always used the big star washer St part that slides over the bolt & is locked in place with the 4 fixing bolts. I have NEVER had any issues at all.

Personally I would never locktite a crank bolt in.

M

[dgear1984]

Thanks for the replys

Ill go with the lock washer as it will be a little more period

Block and cranks at the machine shop, hopefully minispares will do a decemeber discount, i can get the rest of the bits I need and get cracking

Thanks Dave