constant vellocity joint

[handy andy]

i need to change the c v joint on my 1961 mini
the joint clicks on left hand lock
never had cause to change this before
have been told there is a snap ring on the end of the shaft
does this need compressing before removal of the c v joint
advice please
thanks andy

[Lord Croker]

The snap ring is not accessible as it's located in a groove at the end of the shaft inside the joint, it is released by removing the rubber gaiter, holding the shaft & giving the outer part of the CV joint a sharp blow with a copper mallet. You really need 3 hands! If the joint is reluctant to let go, I clamp the shaft to the subframe where it passes through, that allows 2 hands to attack the joint. Another method I have used if it's very tight, is to release the small gaiter on the sliding spline where the shaft fits into the coupling yoke, pull out the shaft & do the job on the bench with the shaft clamped in the vice, allowing a solid blow from the mallet, which I have found never fails. I hope this is helpful to you.

[handy andy]

many thanks for that lord croker
most helpful
andy

[1071 S]

I would suggest trying to clamp the shaft in a vice would be quite dodgy.

Try this instead....

Remove the shaft from car (as suggested). Remove the boot.

Place something soft on the garage floor under the CV (I use a piece of high density foam).

Hold the shaft vertically in the left hand (if you're rt handed) with outer CV down; let gravity do the alignment.

Use a four pound hammer with a short handle to strike a decisive downward blow on the top of the CV flange. The joint will pop off and fall to the floor (hence the padding under).

Use a small heavy hammer so you can guide it; the hammer weight provides the necessary force. You don't want to have to take a big swing....

If at first you don't succeed (but you probably will) rotate the joint 180 deg and give it another whack...

There's no real effort involved just a short sharp shock.

Cheers, Ian

[Andrew1967]

I'd agree with the last post about removal.

To refit you will need to depress the snap ring into its groove before tapping the shaft onto the joint. Put the joint vertically in the vice and tap the shaft downwards onto it.

Fitting is really a two person operation as the snap ring needs to be pushed in from two sides.

[Lord Croker]

I would suggest trying to clamp the shaft in a vice would be quite dodgy.

In what way is clamping the shaft in the vice 'dodgy'? Bearing in mind, I clamp them along the length, avoiding any splines. I have done hundreds of CV joints in this way, over the past 40+ years, it's by far the safest way & the only way you'll get the right hand one on my Mini apart. Often, there is a lot of effort involved, which is why I devised this way of doing them. I await your replies very eagerly!

[1071 S]

You may have done them that way for years - and have the process well worked out...however, for the novice????

I assume along the length means they're mounted horizontally??? ...which means you swing the hammer sideways ..at chest height??? and hold onto the CV joint to stop it sailing off across the garage?? And if the shaft is not properly clamped and is dislodged by the hammer blow???

I would suggest that the handheld method involves much less risk to you and the hardware...

Good luck, Ian

[coop12g295]

Vertical dangle works for me!! BMC had a special tool if I remember that clamped to the shaft and could be used in situ

[bmcman.ie]

yes they did! i have one! ian.

[handy andy]

okay gents
all your advice much appreciated even if theres more than one way to skin a cat
andy

[Michael7]

A bit of caution. The early cars up to about 1961 used an 18 spline CV joint and matching drive shaft. That type is no longer available, all modern replacement CV joints will be 19 spline and will not fit on your shaft, so you will have to also replace the shaft, the drive flange and the inner yoke, if I remember correctly. The very early wheel bearings and drive flange shaft are 30mm (bearing I.D.).

Perhaps a NOS specialist like Nick at Min-E-Bitz can locate an original 18 spline CV joint to avoid changing so many parts.

Maybe some of the other early Mini gurus here will pipe in on this subject.

[handy andy]

no i wasnt aware of that although the joint i bought stated it was mark1
i think the best way is just to take off the large hub nut and count the splines before going any further
andy

[Michael7]

I checked the Somerford site and they say the early arrangement only went through 1960, so it may not affect your car. But I agree, remove the nut and measure the bearing shaft of the drive flange. If it is 30mm, it is the early one. If not, you're off the hook.

[handy andy]

i had no idea that my request would go WORLD WIDE
GREAT
thanks for your help
andy
bet your mini is quite unusual in u s
andy

[Lord Croker]

You may have done them that way for years - and have the process well worked out...however, for the novice????

I assume along the length means they're mounted horizontally??? ...which means you swing the hammer sideways ..at chest height??? and hold onto the CV joint to stop it sailing off across the garage?? And if the shaft is not properly clamped and is dislodged by the hammer blow???

I would suggest that the handheld method involves much less risk to you and the hardware...

Good luck, Ian

I can now understand why you might think my method to be unwise, but my vice is at waist height & I can assure you I have never suffered any discomfort from holding the joint horizontally while knocking the joint off. Personally, I would never use a vice at chest height for any purpose. I should have been more specific about that initially, but as I said, I only use that method on very tight joints. I am planning to make one of the special tools mentioned by coop12g295