Clutch master pushrod wear - 1st gear selection?

[KR200]

Gents,

I decided to rebuild the clutch master and slave on my Mk3S as the car was fully rebuilt perhaps 20 years ago and the fluids etc now didn’t look to pretty (the car has sat which has lead to all sorts of problems). I had minor gear selection problems so it was a no brainer for a few quid.

Anyway on removing the master I could see the bore was good so was happy to re-rubber it. What I did note was some very visible ovalisation of the pushrod holes where the pedal/clevis pin goes together. As I was unable to get a new part there and then I put it back together (much fun split pin) and bled the system.

It seemed better and I then adjusted the bolt on the clutch cover to give the required play plus the end travel nuts on the plunger. It is a lot better. The arm ball end,pin, plunger, slave + its pushrod are all fine. I've put in a new clutch etc. I know you don’t get much travel on a mini clutch and my last remote change was always a bit of a git to get into first when the oil was warm. Mine's OK but I'm thinking could it be touch better? The worn master pushrod might be robbing me of that last mil or two of travel at the slave end thus causing the awkwardness. Then again as I said I've never had a remote mini change that likes to simply drop into first to pull away.

I'm loathe to buy a new master for just the push rod. Has anyone got a decent pushrod going spare? in fact what are your thoughts? Will a decent pushrod make much difference? I'm thinking it may well do as the pedal is probably currently bottoming out early and every little helps! 1-3mm on the clevis pin would be quite a lot at the pedal rubber end. I will not be bending the arm.

Thx

[JC T ONE]

I would try to get a better one, with a round hole. It makes a big difference.

Why not "rob" one from a old brakemaster cylender ? they dont wear so badly.

[KR200]

A worn pushrod is not going to do me any favours so I will change it as soon as I can.

So are the clutch and brake pushrods the same? Did they change length when the set up altered? as in no remote S servo. I have access to a scrap 1981 car. It has the latter servo brake set up.

I may even take the gasket out under the master as that may give me a mm more..

[1071 S]

Be careful. There is a return port just above where the piston sits. If you drop the cylinder down (by removing the gasket under it) you can block this hole and the brakes will not release... and i don't think it would have any effect on piston travel anyway.

Maybe you could you get a dob of weld added the pushrod and then drill the hole round again???

Cheers, Ian

[KR200]

Be careful. There is a return port just above where the piston sits. If you drop the cylinder down (by removing the gasket under it) you can block this hole and the brakes will not release... and i don't think it would have any effect on piston travel anyway.

Maybe you could you get a dob of weld added the pushrod and then drill the hole round again???

Cheers, Ian

Ian,

If I leave out the gasket then the clutch master will drop by a minor amount. I can't remember if the clutch pedal has an upper stop. if it does then yes the cylinder will rise in the bore. If it doesn't then the pedal will be higher thus giving more throw.

I have no access to welding equipment so will have to replace the fork. The trouble with Mini's is the clutch pedal travel is miniscule. Add a thick carpet and underlay together with a worn pin/linkage and you're all out of kilter.


Thx