Clutch installation

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Jasonking
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Clutch installation

Post by Jasonking »

Hi all, is it at all possible to install a new clutch kit to hydrolastic minis with the engine in situ? :shock:
Polarsilver
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by Polarsilver »

Why not .. so long as you can get the Clutch Cover Bolts out ..the one at 20mins to..also the Bolt at the Half Past .. they can become a challenge but do able :roll:
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Peter Laidler
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by Peter Laidler »

Agree with Norman....... but! Undo the clutch side engine mount and lift that side of the engine an inch to make life a bit easier
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gs.davies
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by gs.davies »

You'll probably also need to remove the top rad shroud and bracket and the fan, as well as slacken off the lower rad shroud fixings to facilitate tilting the engine over enough. I recall doing this several times at the side of the road in the depths of winter many years ago when my car decided that enough was enough and the primary gear oil seal gave up (wet primary type gears are a total nuisance).
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by DougR »

If you need to pull the flywheel get one of these. They're not expensive. It's better than bashing it through the starter hole. Cheers, Doug
IMG_20250501_011356.jpg
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360gts
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by 360gts »

Thought I'd post this little mod that I have done on all of my engines. Cut slots in the two lower most awkward bolt holes....
It sure makes life so much easier when changing the clutch with the engine in situ.
You just undo the two bolts and leave them in place....no more skinned knuckles and 'blue' air
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by floormanager »

Some say leave the bolts out but my OCD will not let me. This looks like a great compromise!
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Peter Laidler
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by Peter Laidler »

Agree. Another great idea from Dermott's fertile mind.

I devised a simple idea like this (?) for Suffolk Punch lawn mower top and side covers. To remove them for maintenance and clearing crap away from the mechanism without having to remove the bolts. Sent it to them and they sent me £50!
360gts
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by 360gts »

Peter Laidler wrote: Fri May 02, 2025 10:57 am Agree. Another great idea from Dermott's fertile mind.
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swifty
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by swifty »

Great tip Dermott…. Shirley
1963 austin Cooper s mk1 1071
1966 Austin Cooper s mk1 1275
1968 Austin Cooper mk2 998
1962 Morris mini super 850
Porsche 997 turbo S
Ford transit van 280s.

I am from Essex
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by GraemeC »

I leave the 8 o’clock one out, but for the 6 and 5 o’clock I’ve drilled holes in the web of the subframe just large enough to get a 1/4” drive socket through (aligned for after the end of the engine has been jacked slightly to both take the weight and lift the mount clear).
Slightly more brutal (competition car) I also have a big hole in the inner wing aligned with the flywheel bolt.
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Re: Clutch installation

Post by Allen Brzeczek »

Very interesting, while I have no doubt that this could work but for me, I can only assume that I must over tighten the centre bolt on the fly wheel or have done something else wrong as once loosened, even with a proper extractor under full tension it has always been impossible to dislodge the flywheel without the aid of a good thump or several on the end of the centre bolt of the extractor with a lump hammer, with the engine still in the car there is no room to give this a good swing.

First time I ever stripped my "S" engine was probably the first time from new, by then the clutch had been in place some 13 years or so, it took myself and a mechanic 3 or 4 evenings to dislodge it before it finally broke free with a bang and jumped a good foot from the engine.

For me I would always remove the engine from the car and besides it gives the added opportunity to give the engine and surrounds a good clean and refresh.
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