1961 MK1 alternator converting

[ateichert]

Starting to put my woody back together after a long 6 year bare shell resto. I would like to convert to alternator. I will be replaceing the wiring harness. What is the best way to go about it. I have looked at Autosparks but not sure which one to get, the one for my year with alt. upgrade or? I am not worried about total origin look(retaining control box).
Any thoughts out there?
Thanks Mike
Near Folsom California

[whistler]

Stay with the Dynamo. Much simpler that way.

[MagicWandWoody]

Dynamator or similar? It looks (vaguely) like a real dynamo and comes in positive-earth options. But see here https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... try3771963 for why you should remove the 'tacho' take-off shaft from the back of it, if using a Tudor-branded one (or one from the same source as the ones that Tudor in the UK stick their badges on).

[Polarsilver]

when i rebuilt my 1961 Cooper.. spoke to Autosparks informing them i was to use a Alternator in the Lucas Dynamo Case from Powerlite.. Autosparks said no problem, asking did i want a Regulator Box with Dummy wireing, my answer was No .. Autosparks Harness & Powerlite unit all fitted as it should .. speak direct to Autosparks, also tell them IF you want any other optional wireing to be pre built into your new harness ..such as reversing light etc.. ok extras costs but make life a bit easier.

This as stated was some years ago the only problem with Autosparts Harness at that time was the Speedo Panel Light Bulb Holders did not fit .. hope they now have the correct bulb holders

['S'-type]

There is a tried and tested conversion that allows the standard loom to be used with some minor alterations to the the inside of the now redundant control box which then becomes a dummy box as mentioned by Polarsilver. It involves making soldered connections inside the box and swapping around some of the wires to the external spade terminals.
It maintains the original look, and is pretty neat. Even better if you happen to have a scrap control box lying around to avoid gutting a known good one.
If I was converting an existing loom this is how I would do it. If buying a new loom, as in your case, there may be an easier way to do things. As Polar suggests best speak to Autosparks go get the simplest and neatest solution from scratch.
The beauty of the conversion I mention is that it is ultra cheap, easy to do and looks the part. Win, win!
How to do it here

https://www.calverst.com/technical-info ... lternator/

and here (virtually the same)

https://www.minimania.com/HOW__TO_CONVE ... ALTERNATOR

[Peter Laidler]

Some good ideas here and Polar Silver and S type are two of the best in my humble opinion. So, selecting the best bits of each AND having done something similar, I'd suggest keeping the original dynamo loom and dummy regulator box and doing the invisible/unseen wiring alterations that will enable you to use an alternator,

And if you're using an alternator, go for a decent output Lucas 18ACR type. Readily available and easy repairable too. And catered for with the available off the shelf bracketry.

Want to know the best bit now.........? When you come to sell the car, the new owner can easily revert back to its 1960 or so spec.

[twc641]

Here in the States we have this generalt available.
I have fitted one in my 63 Austin Mini 2yrs ago
[attachment=0]Screenshot 2025-04-22 6.25.32 PM.png[

[floormanager]

Will the standard, 60 year old wire harness cope with twice the output from the alternator? I'm still on a dynamo but did fit an electronic module under the standard regulator box, as I could not get a mechanical regulator to work without pulsating the headlamps!

I see the minmainia article does run an additional load wire to the solenoid.

[gs.davies]

Will the standard, 60 year old wire harness cope with twice the output from the alternator? I'm still on a dynamo but did fit an electronic module under the standard regulator box, as I could not get a mechanical regulator to work without pulsating the headlamps!

I see the minmainia article does run an additional load wire to the solenoid.

I will probably do this conversion to my car at some point in the future. I’m using a standard dynamo autosparks loom and will add another load cable between the alternator and the solenoid (which may end up being moved to under the bonnet, leaving the floor starter as a low current switch for a pre-engaged starter on a verto clutch..).

[Exminiman]

Will the standard, 60 year old wire harness cope with twice the output from the alternator? I'm still on a dynamo but did fit an electronic module under the standard regulator box, as I could not get a mechanical regulator to work without pulsating the headlamps!

I see the minmainia article does run an additional load wire to the solenoid.

if Autosparks convert the loom at source for an Alternator, they apparently use "heavier wiring" .......so might be worth looking at this.

Having said that though, lots just convert their own looms and I have not heard of an issue with the existing wiring warming up a bit...?

[swifty]

I’ve converted to alternator . That’s the dummy box on the left . … Shirley

[gs.davies]

Will the standard, 60 year old wire harness cope with twice the output from the alternator? I'm still on a dynamo but did fit an electronic module under the standard regulator box, as I could not get a mechanical regulator to work without pulsating the headlamps!

I see the minmainia article does run an additional load wire to the solenoid.

if Autosparks convert the loom at source for an Alternator, they apparently use "heavier wiring" .......so might be worth looking at this.

Having said that though, lots just convert their own looms and I have not heard of an issue with the existing wiring warming up a bit...?

The standard alternator wiring has two cables doing the same thing, carrying current from the alternator to the battery cable. Would make sense to just double up and use both terminals on the alternator.