CV Gaiter

[rogerotto66s]

Need to replace my CV gaiter on my 1966 Austin Cooper S (July build date).

Here is what I have.
Not sure if it is correct for my “S”.

63DF569F-4264-435E-B8AD-9392364EED0A.png

Any British source?

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[mk1coopers]

The CV joint are bigger on the S, 850 ones won’t fit, Sommerfords are doing a high quality Japanese version

https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/valtain ... c-v-gaiter

Thread here

http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=5& ... ty#p296697

[rogerotto66s]

Trying to replace the gaiter.

Is possible to remove CV joint without removing the axle?
Space is any a premium as you know.

If not, what are options for removal of axle which has Hardy-Spicer joint?

IMG_4429.jpeg

[Spider]

You can do them on car, but you'll find it much easier off car. Cut the clip on the inboard boot for the HS Slip / Splined joint and slide the shaft with the CV out.

[rogerotto66s]

Thanks Spider

Just to be clear …

In the photos below you are referring to the band circled in RED … correct?

How would the new band go on since the subframe surrounds the axle at that point?

Is is possible to undo the end of the Spicer-Hardy joint (4 lock nuts) circled in YELLOW and remove the entire axle with Spicer-Hardy attached?
Would this all fit through the hole in the subframe?

Thanks for sharing your experience.

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[timmy201]

I used a set of vice grips to hold the driveshaft in place. You need it on the engine side of the subframe, there’s just enough room to hit the backside of the cv and hopefully pop it off

[imack]

Just undo the 4 nuts on the Hary Spicer joint, the flange will pass through the hole in the subframe with the flat sides of the flange in the right orientation.
I've got a pair of pre 66 S drive shafts that I have never been able to remove the cv joints from, and I've tried several times over the years.

[Peter Laidler]

What you need to do Imack is to bath the jammed CV and shaft in thin, warm penetrant oil and use a hydraulic PULLER to draw out the shaft from the CV. BUT, you've got to accept that you will - or might - damage one or the other.

The trouble is access to a hydraulic puller!

I damaged the CV as a rotating joint but used the outer splined part to make a jig for setting up hub bearings on the bench. Still got it in use today

[rogerotto66s]

Just undo the 4 nuts on the Hardy Spicer joint, the flange will pass through the hole in the subframe with the flat sides of the flange in the right orientation.

I will raise the Jack stands to provide more room under the car. I will also re-position one of the Jack stands to a different location on the subframe to also provide more room. Once removed I will use Peter’s suggestion re: “ warm penetrant oil” before trying to remove the outer CV joint.

I will report back my results.

Thanks everyone.

Roger
Collegeville, PA (USA)

[imack]

What you need to do Imack is to bath the jammed CV and shaft in thin, warm penetrant oil and use a hydraulic PULLER to draw out the shaft from the CV. BUT, you've got to accept that you will - or might - damage one or the other.

The trouble is access to a hydraulic puller!

I damaged the CV as a rotating joint but used the outer splined part to make a jig for setting up hub bearings on the bench. Still got it in use today

My cv's are not seized to the shaf - there is a small amount of in/out movement between the inner portion of the cv and the driveshaft splines. It's just that the circlip won't release the cv joint. I bought these second hand from Tim Harber in the mid 80s when was Metro & Mini Spares, I've never managed to separate the cv's from the shafts. I've cleaned them out as best I can and then repacked them, they've never given any issues in 40 years. I'll probably end up cutting them off if they ever need replacing. I've got two NOS leyland joints in storage if I need them.

[Spider]

Thanks Spider

Just to be clear …

In the photos below you are referring to the band circled in RED … correct?

Yes.

How would the new band go on since the subframe surrounds the axle at that point?

I usually start the clip off over the yoke of the Joint, then slide it down, tighten and snip.

Is is possible to undo the end of the Spicer-Hardy joint (4 lock nuts) circled in YELLOW and remove the entire axle with Spicer-Hardy attached?
Would this all fit through the hole in the subframe?

Yes, that works too, but for a straight forward job like replacing the CV Boot, I wouldn't bother. The nuts as a fiddle to undo and do back up. You'll still need to take the HS Joint off on the bench to get the new boot over.

[rogerotto66s]

So far so good!

I had already removed the hub.

Then I positioned the LH Jack stand to provide better access to the gearbox.

I inserted a screw driver through the Hardy-spice housing to prevent the shaft from rotating.
I then carefully was able to loosen and remove the 4 Philidas nuts and remove the driveshaft.

In the vice I was able to remove the damaged boot and then the outer CV joint (a few hard whacks).
Next I was able to slide the new boot onto the shaft and re-grease the CV and boot.

Then a few more whacks and the CV joint was back onto the shaft.
I am now in the process of applying the new straps on the boot.

I will add pictures soon.

Hardest part was removing the CV joint from the shaft.
Much easier to do with shaft removed.

Thanks again for all your help.

[rogerotto66s]

Below is a picture of the new gaiter installed along with new clamps.

I was also able to install the axel as well using new Philidas nuts.

Next up is installing the timken bearings.

IMG_4475.jpeg

[rogerotto66s]

Bearings in, hub installed.
Ready to go for a test drive.

Thanks for all your help.