Mk1 Floor - Repair or Replace?

[cobolman]

I've been trying to add some patch repairs to my Mk1 Mini floor, particularly the front footwells. It's not going well because the frilly floor is so very thin and weld just blows through (see my earlier post on frilly floor)

I'm now considering replacing the floor but, as far as I can see, there are no floor panels available that match the original. This image shows my car's footwell:

FloorStyle.jpg

The flutes are straight, whereas on the repair panels, the outer flute is bent in at an angle as it meets the footwell
Also, the original footwell in my car is considerably larger than the repair panels available

My options, as far as I can see, are:
- Replace the front footwells with non-matching repair panels
- Have a repair panel fashioned by someone skilled in metalwork
- Find some way to repair the frilly floor

But maybe you have an even more cunning plan? I'd love to hear about it if you do.

Thanks in advance

['S'-type]

I don't have a cunning plan I'm afraid, but this previous thread on a similar topic may help with the quirks of the early shells.
viewtopic.php?t=17497

You seem to have come up with the options yourself already. Personally, though the thought of retaining as much of the original metal is laudable, it is an uphill struggle when so much of the original metal is so weak, and ultimately it will always be a patchwork. In terms of time and money, compromises on originality are necessary if one is being realistic, as people rarely get the return spent on restoration, especially right now.

You want it to be right, but the cost of achieving perfection for the sake of originality will be much more than the value added, unless you could achieve that result yourself. I would opt for m-machine panels and not attempt to modify them.

[68Deluxe]

You'll have a hard time patching that again as areas will be thin and hard to weld.
I'd personally replace it.

[gs.davies]

Might be worth speaking to Bill Bell at the 1959 register. I think they produce the correct front floor sections.

[mab01uk]

Mid-October 1959 until October 1960 style floor depression.


October 1960> 3rd generation foot well depression is smaller again than the 59-60 style.

1959 Mini Register.
Variations – Shell (scroll down in link below)
https://1959miniregister.com/variations-shell/

[mab01uk]

Up to mid October 1959 first large floor pan depression. This style floor has the toe board on top of the floor pan and separate welded starter button housing.

Not much help to you as you need the second generation floor depression....but the first very large floor pan depression shown above also with straight flutes have been reproduced...my brother fitted these reproduction pressings below to an early 1959 Mini a couple of years ago.

[cobolman]

I don't have a cunning plan I'm afraid, but this previous thread on a similar topic may help with the quirks of the early shells.
viewtopic.php?t=17497

Thanks for the link. I went to take a look to see the same problem discussed and that was about 8 years ago!

What a brilliant resource this site is. I'm so glad that it's been saved for the future as it's much too useful to be lost.

[cobolman]

Might be worth speaking to Bill Bell at the 1959 register. I think they produce the correct front floor sections.

Thanks for the referral. I'll try and track that down.

And extra thanks for keeping this site alive. The information it contains and the community it serves are much too important to be lost.

[cobolman]

Mid-October 1959 until October 1960 style floor depression.

That's the exact floor footwell style that I have.

[minstix]

When I had my MK2 S shell restorered a few years ago pre Covid, I had it done by a chap called Les at the Real Mini Company. He had spent a large part of his working career building minis on the production line from way back.

I was given the option of either repair the existing floor or fit a complete new one. I went for repairing the original, which he did beautifully. When I saw it pre painting I was impressed and thanked him for doing it. He said he was very 'pleased with it'. You can barely see the repairs if at all. He also said, 'of course, it would have cost a lot less if I'd replaced it with a new one, it took over a week to do! A new one would have been fitted in a few hours.'

Now having read this post, I'm glad I had it repaired. Definitely go for the repair option if at all possible keeping it as close to the original as possible.

Steve