MK1 Replacement Floor and Sill Options

[politeperson]

Yes, quite right, I might use lead for all that, as I use it for the E-types and have done quite lot of it.

Modern fillers are pretty good.

It is all quite level though.

The radii didn't seem too bad, some of the flanges widths were a bit out but easily rectified.

[111Robin]

Nice work. This must be a bit simpler than working on the E-Types presumably ?.

[politeperson]

Thanks,
It is quicker and cheaper that's for sure.
A lot less stressful too.
The E type has some complicated sections, the panels are very expensive but at least I dont have to make them, as I have had to do for less common cars I have restored.

Welding in long curved sections without distortion is tricky on the E types as well.

Still, there are plenty of challenges on the Mini and all new to me. It is not what I would describe as easy.

I want to convert it to dry suspension, so will need a bit of advice please.

I have the good original front hydrolastic front subframe. I just took it all out on a pallet with the suspension attached and hid it for now.

I haven't a clue how it works, as I haven't researched it all yet, however I understand I can attack it in some way to convert it to a dry setup. So that is the plan. I have the new shock mounts from Doreen.

I had to do a double take when I looked at the original rusty brake discs. They looked like ones from a go-cart. Tiny. We are all used to looking at much larger ones these days. I definitely I want the biggest brakes that fit when it comes to it.

I have a new old stock brake servo, so I shall be plumbing that in.

I have an excellent dry subframe, so hopefully I can just use that.

I will need to make some decisions on who to buy all the bits from. I would like new suspension brakes wiring etc, so I am sure there is plenty to think about. I dont want to make too many "fashion mistakes" by purchasing the wrong stuff.

The interior of the original car and the glass were all good, so they can go back in.

The 1275 and gearbox have been rebuilt, the block just needed a light hone as their was no measurable wear. New bearings, seals gaskets valve springs etc. It has been run up on a bench stand and are waiting for me to pick up. Sounds very healthy.

I think Autosparks will do me a nice loom. I use them for the Jags, they are very good.

This is the look I am going for. Basically small wheels, original colour.

[Peter Laidler]

If you do yours back to that tweed grey/OEW colour scheme, I'd say that it is the nicest colour scheme that there ever was on a mini Cooper!

I have made a fairly detailed study of hydrolastic and come up with the conclusion that it is a frill, if not a direct fraud. That said, if it's working then keep it and don't fret about it. But if, like you, the whole car is stripped down to its last nut and bolt - and shell in your case - then dry is the way to go for longevity!

You will be able to sell the good parts, such as the units, of the hydro on to recoup some of your costs. But, alas, only if they hold/maintain pressure. It's easy to pressure test them under water at, say, 70 psi and check for air leaks. But unless you have a scrapped dry car to cannibalise for dry parts, a change to dry is a xxxxing expensive job!

I'm sure that photos like that will enhance its value later

[mab01uk]

I want to convert it to dry suspension, so will need a bit of advice please.

I have the good original front hydrolastic front subframe. I just took it all out on a pallet with the suspension attached and hid it for now.

I haven't a clue how it works, as I haven't researched it all yet, however I understand I can attack it in some way to convert it to a dry setup. So that is the plan. I have the new shock mounts from Doreen.

Link below should help for converting wet to dry suspension but bear in mind a 1966 Mini Cooper is much more desirable to most buyers on the classic car market if it still has it's original Hydrolastic suspension. Not to mention a smoother more refined ride especially with the popular upgrade of fitting front shock absorbers and mounts.

Suspension - Converting from wet to dry:-
https://www.calverst.com/technical-info ... et-to-dry/

If you did decide to retain wet suspension see also useful link below.
If you do swap to dry please don't chuck away or scrap the Hydrolastic Units as they are no longer manufactured and they will be useful to others who have retained wet suspension or need replacement parts which can be hard to find now.

Hydragas & Hydrolastic Service Ltd.
Provide a re-hosing service for Hydrolastic Displacers.
Hydrolastic suspension systems are generally reliable and long lived. The main problems are perished hoses on the Hydrolastic units.
Fitting service (including mobile) available:-
https://hahsltd.co.uk/

[politeperson]

Very useful, thanks very much.

I hear what you say about the hydrolastic setup. You are talking to a man who battles with keeping a Citroen DS, an SM and a Discovery 3 on the road at the same time! I do love all of them but I am not sure if I want anymore hydraulic/air ride issues at the moment.

Something I have found with old cars is that these systems were absolutely fine in the day but repro parts are not what they used to be very often. Anyway, the rear sub-frame was pinched from my car so I am starting from scratch.
So things moved on a bit in that department today.
I managed to pick up a nice rear dry sub-frame for a reasonable sum. I chucked it in the back of the old Disco. No real rust!.

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Looks like it still has its factory finish and it included the arms with shock mounts/comes and everything else.
I will check it out on the bench, but in essence it looks about ready to bolt in, even the brakes and brake pipes look ok. Might be OK, might just be seized, either way I can clean it/paint it/wax it/ fix it before I put it i I hope.

As far as the front sub-frame goes, I have had a look and what people are selling and I think I am best off altering mine as it is the correct 2 bolt type and it is in good condition. Apparently I have 3 internal lugs to remove on each side somewhere for the cones to seat. Should be OK at doing that with my equipment, I hope.

A Hi-lo kit with cones and knuckles is £140 and reconditioned arms with shock mounts £100 a pair.

I already have the upper shock mounts from Doreen, so with a set of new shocks all round, I am in with a chance I think.

[mab01uk]

Sounds like a good plan!

Extract from the Keith Calver link above on how to modify the wet front subframe for dry rubber cones:-
"Now, it’s entirely possible to modify the hydro front subframe to accept the rubber springs and other necessary bits and pieces. The displacer unit is seated in the tower in the same way as the cone, the difference being the locating ring's size/shape. The displacer sits inside it’s seating ring, the cone outside. The diameters of these differ too, the hydro being bigger, and has lugs pressed into it. To get the rubber spring to fit the hydro ‘frame, these lugs need to be bent outwards. The rubber spring then locates inside the ring. Sounds easy, eh? Achieving this is accompanied by all kinds of 'blue' air and skinned knuckles. More often than not, eventual submission and fitment of a dry ‘frame!! It’s all down to access - or lack of it (as in ‘severe’). There are ways round it, but we’re supposed to be doing this the easy way, remember? Then you need to drill holes in the tower outer ‘elbows’ to take bump stops. Use the later single stud fixing as this eases the whole drilling/fitting thing."

[magna0266]

Nice registration number, originally, I think, from the fair city of Kingston upon Hull.

[AndyPen]

Our Oct / Nov 64 was an early hydro but we converted it along the lines discussed many many years ago after one side of the hydro kept going down. It still has the hydro front subframe, which has never been removed to the best of my knowledge.

[politeperson]

The Mini I am fixing is one from an old film, Curse of the Crimson Alter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBkYszoBVOg&t=3730s
One hour 2 minutes 7 seconds if you are interested.
I have the logbook from when it was a new car, registered to the director, Vernon Sewell at a posh address in West London.

[roger mcnab]

hi
well my clubman was wet suspension and after o lot or thinking and remembering all the broken struts etc in my mk 1 years ago i have opted for coil overs and that is fine by my way of thinking
they will support the rover v8 well as the engine and gear box weigh about the same as the mini one
cheers roger mcnab

[politeperson]

A Rover V8 in the front of a mini?

[mab01uk]

A Rover V8 in the front of a mini?

There are a few....
Mini 3500 GT





Transverse Fwd Rover V8 Minis....
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?t=8957

And this is Rogers project in progress.
Rover V8 in Mini Clubman:-
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18661

[politeperson]

Wow, that is very creative.
I once put a 5l Rover engine in an MGB. It was absolutely lethal as it would spin around 180 degrees facing backwards on the lightest of throttle openings.

[politeperson]

I did some more welding. Gazillions of welds.
I wore out my 1/4 inch hex bit on the tek screws!

The main floor section is in, I had to re-contour the transmission tunnel to fit the bulkhead. Read -
heat until it was red hot using oxy/acetylene then tap into shape.

Inner sills and outer sill flanges complete, floor to toe board and floor in inner wing finished.
Boot floor and wheel tubs in, they all lined up OK.

4 boot corners and sub-frame bracing brackets in.

Inner main floor to seat base and rear bulkhead to boot floor and rear wheel tubs in.

Rear valence and valence supports supports in too.
Center seat support in.

That is loads of cleaning, clamping, tek screwing, welding and grinding.

Plenty more welds to knock down. I ran out of gas.

I need to do the companion boxes, inner sill support and closing panels next.
I screwed them in place, they seem to fit well.
Doors seem to fit OK.

Then I am going to seal and paint the underside with body tinted bed liner.

Then I really want it off the rotisserie and on a trolley so I can align and fit the front wings, scuttle and front panel with the spit out of the way.

So I am going to make up some supports to attach to the sub-frame mounts as it look like the underside is easy to damage otherwise.

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[Peter Laidler]

Wow....., you are certainly cracking on with that!

[politeperson]

Thanks Peter,
Its at the grind stage at the moment. I can only get on it weekends and I like to push through the pain barrier, otherwise I dont want to get back to it! The nasty bit is nearly over.

So today I decided to remover the rotisserie pillar frame from the car to give me more room inside now the floor is in and the door gaps are set.

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Then I was able to tek screw in the inner sill to outer sill filler panel at the bottom of the bin and also position the floor closing panel in front of the wheel. I welded these in.

Then I slipped in the bin and checked the fit of the ashtray which needed altering.

I was then able to weld the ashtray to the bin off the car from behind. Then I fitted the assembly into the car, welding the bin in along the pillar, floor, seat support and making sure the rear flange was on the rear heal board for welding from outside the car.

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Having done both sides, I could then flip the car upside down and weld the floor filler panel from underneath along with the sill filler panel extension and a pair of little Dairy lea flange filler panels that make up the bottom of the rear wheel arch and support the floor and subframe mount I would guess.

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That lot took all morning, the rest of the day was spent finishing off welds and knocking down welds. Hundreds of them.

I am now at the stage where a bit more butt welding and all the welding is done.

I am going to leave welding the wings until the car is off the rotisseries so I can use the bonnet for gaps.

The front panel is bolted firmly to a jig I made, I all looks lined up at the front but who knows. So I think I will screw the front panel to the inner wings only for now, the remover the front wings that are just screwed in place.

This will enable me to bed liner the inner wings and the front panel on the jig in one go.

Then I can get if off the rotisserie.

[trevorhp]

Nice work
Jawel paints will tint the Raptor bed liner to match your top coat colour.......well worth the very tiny extra cost.
Thinned it looks like paint but is so tough.
T

[AndyPen]

Impressive work

[politeperson]

Thanks,

I managed to get some more done today.

I use the Cobra Bed-liner. Tip the hardener in, add the base coat, shake it up and spray it.
I cleaned up the upper engine bulkhead for good measure with the scuttle panel off in preparation for bonnet fitting.

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I etch primed the underside and sealed it with modern sealer. I have not found one car from the 1960s that used sealer in its construction. Hence the reason they all dissolved.

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I decided to stop the bed-liner at the bottom of the engine bat, so I masked it off at that point. So now the underside is Tweed grey. It dries a satin finish.

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I also sealed, etched and lined the front inner wheels wells, masking off the radiator holes and other bits and pieces.

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Hopefully I can now get the car off the rotisserie and onto a little trolley so I can finish the upper body and get her of to the painter.