Why is alternator nut touching rad cowel ?

[Exminiman]

As title really, the. Alternator is spaced to right to get the pulleys in line but now it touches the rad cowel (S)

The cowling is on the RH side of the bottom bracket, so no more chance to move to right

What am I missing, before I grind a chunk out of the rad cowling….!!!

Wondering if it just badly made replacement parts…

IMG_0529.jpeg

[minibitz]

Question is why have you had to space the alternator out so far to get the belt aligned?

Has someone incorrectly fitted a spacer behind the pulley rather than between pulley and fan to alter fan spacing?

If the pulley was closer in toward the motor then alternator would not need spacing so I would be investigating pulley location.

[Exminiman]

Thanks, but no, the spacer for the water pump pulley is the other side of the pulley, so not pushing it away from the engine.

It is a large diameter pulley, but I think same off set as the original pulley, I will check again though..

TBH I thought I had had just misassembled the bottom cowling on the wrong side of the bracket…..but not then case

Appreciate any ideas

[Rolandino]

You have a 1/8" washer pushing it too fat to the right, but then the fan belt wouldnt be running straight.. I had the same problem. I took the top half of the cowling off and filed it down. Mark where the cowling fouls. You can barely notice the difference. It has only to clear by 1/16".

[timmy201]

Could you try a shorter belt?

I've noticed mine had a cutout in the shroud there already (I got the mini with an alternator fitted) so another option as mentioned above

[Polarsilver]

could it be your Alloy Radiator is just a bit wider than standard

[imack]

Can you not slacken the thermostat housing nuts and the lower rad mounting bracket where it bolts to the engine mount bracket and "twist" the front edge of the rad towards the inner wing?

[Exminiman]

You have a 1/8" washer pushing it too fat to the right, but then the fan belt wouldnt be running straight.. I had the same problem. I took the top half of the cowling off and filed it down. Mark where the cowling fouls. You can barely notice the difference. It has only to clear by 1/16".

Its a new cowling and bottom bracket, I am wondering if the new parts are to spec or not……I was going to grind the cowling, but thought would try and find out why first..

[Exminiman]

Could you try a shorter belt?

I've noticed mine had a cutout in the shroud there already (I got the mini with an alternator fitted) so another option as mentioned above

I cna only just get that belt on, because of the larger water pump pulley

The cut out in the shroud is a point though, wasn’t that a standard thing in the past, or am I just making that up ?

[Exminiman]

could it be your Alloy Radiator is just a bit wider than standard

I did wonder if it was some how caused by the rad, but its the cowling and bottom bracket that sets position of the cowling as far as I cans see.

[Exminiman]

g
Can you not slacken the thermostat housing nuts and the lower rad mounting bracket where it bolts to the engine mount bracket and "twist" the front edge of the rad towards the inner wing?

Good spot, thats not going to help is it, I think its that way round because it wouldn’t go the other way round without cutting, I will try it without the engine mount and see what happens.

AFE66D29-BBB5-49B5-95BD-0003B661FE17.jpeg

[Exminiman]

Think I pull it apart again and start checking and measuring till get to the issue, will report back

[Polarsilver]

With the Top Rad Hose "fitted" but with NO top Bracket bolted on do you get clearance then .. maybe the top bracket is the wrong type?

Last resort maybe reduce the length of the Alternator Shaft/ Nut to get the clearance

[1071 S]

My setup in this area is a bit non standard.... Mk II motor in a 65 Traveller with a Mspares 4 core rad. I had to make up a new top rad mount to allow the rad clearance between it and the inner wing shroud.

My non standard modern alternator came with a number of optional pulleys (with different offsets) to allow you to choose the one that lined up with the water pump pulley.

The alternator fits like the one in the photo but without the spacing washer fitted to the top bracket in your photo. This means the alt nut sits a (small) fingers width from the standard shroud (which doesn't have a cut out).

I would be visiting an electrical factor to see if different pulleys are available.

Cheers, Ian

(PS the simplest solution would seem to be some neat trimming of the shroud....)

[GraemeC]

The issue is with the pulley and the belt alignment needing you to space the alternator. The issue isn’t the rad cowl.
Fix the problem, not the symptom or it’ll bite you later.

[Peter Laidler]

Here's my take on this, as one who has a standard S but more to the point, has an alternator fitted as standard - albeit one changed from AC type to ACR type. Dimensionally unchanged though. My alt fan nut is some 3/8 to 1/2" AWAY from the rad shroud

Some things ain't changeable or disputable in my humble opinion. The alternator position is pretty-well fixed in that the fan pulley must align with the crank and water pump pulley. Just like you already have (?) - and just as mine are.
(agreed, there is a bit of leeway with the alt pulley and the pump pulley but not a lot!!!! I notice that your alt unit is spaced approx1/16" from the bracket with a washer)

Where we differ is the rad shroud. Contrary to what others have said, I respectfully suggest that comparing yours with mine, it's clear to see that it is the rad shroud that is too far to the LEFT (as shown in the photo or too far over to the right when viewed from the rear of the car). This is the cause of the obstruction.

I'd say that you need to delve into that area. Rad out and start again. Are you sure that the bottom shroud is the correct S type?

Let us all know when it's fixed

[Oneball]

As per Peter’s comment. Your radiator looks way closer to the cylinder head than is normal.

[Exminiman]

Here we go, think I have got to the bottom of it, poor quality new brackets………

I removed the new top bracket and shouldered bolts and fitted an old bracket with the old style bolts (separate spacer) and it pulled it round at the back, which moves the front out. Giving me about 8mmm clearance.

I suspect the bottom bracket, which is also new, is also out of spec, as I it is slightly under tension when I pull the back in towards the engine.

Anyone got an old bottom bracket they want to part with ?

This is old top bracket on top of new top bracket……to show the error
.

IMG_0537.jpeg

And the gap…….

IMG_0534.jpeg

[Peter Laidler]

It depends on what bottom bracket you want miniman. Is it the lower rad bracket (12A293) or the special 'S' bracket that's on/part of the special S lower rad shroud? If it's the latter, 1071Bob of this parish has them.

Good luck

[Exminiman]

Yes, it’s the S bottom bracket……