Rear Subframe

[Chalkie]

Hey guys right I got a Rear subframe it was made in 1972 and was on the car a grand total of a week or 2 and since then its sat made up in someone garage it just has surface rust what you'd expect

I started to strip it and this happened

is it fix able or is it a bill for a new rear subframe what I can no afford at all



Dose the black bit come off? if so could i make a sleeve up to go over it?

Thanks Stephen

[sclemow]

While I guess anything is replaceable the rear mounting bolt is part of the subframe and not easily replaced.

[Chalkie]

Ah great be 3rd rear subby if i buy another one

dose the bit whats still black come off? cause i could machine something up same side as the black bit and make it longer with a thread on it then die the broken bit and screw the bit ive made on to it and tack a few welds at the end?

the subframes just to good to bin

[sclemow]

No, I think it's one piece with the thread tapped in.

[Chalkie]

DAMN!!!


Rear axel beam it may become then

[mk1]

Those stubs (the black bit) are welded in before the frame is assembled.

As Sclomow says, everything is fixable, its just a case of how much cutting and welding you are prepared to do.

I'd call it goosed I'm afraid.

[Chalkie]

AH damn! I can't use my oringal one off the car that is too rotten but its hangers are fine

Rear axle beam it may become.

[mk1]

A possible fix, that I am not actually recommending is;

File the end flat & drill & tap the black rod bit to accept a bolt or preferably stud of the correct size.

Would probably work OK.

M.

[Chalkie]

A possible fix, that I am not actually recommending is;

File the end flat & drill & tap the black rod bit to accept a bolt or preferably stud of the correct size.

Would probably work OK.

M.

This is what I was thinking of doing I really can't afford to fork out another rear subframe i need to save for my floor pans

[YMJ]

I've actually fixed this problem as this happened to me in 1980!

drill and tap a 3mm? (4mm?) hole 10-12mm deep
take a length of 3/8" steel rod and carefully machine 10-12mm of it down so you can cut a matching thread and screw it into the remains of the stud.
Get a welder to skillfully weld all around the repair.
Cut new 3/8" thread onto repaired stud
judusciously use carefully selected washers to make up any loss of thread

It must be mentioned that when tapping or dieing tiny threads like these on softish steel bar get an expert to do it for you with the correct speeds and lubricants available on his lathe.

total cost at the time £2.50. Remember a pint of Star Light was 38p then

My dad said it'd never work but it has.......for 32 years! If it was going to break, it would've done it by now

[Simon776]

Can't see why the above wouldn't work as the mounting bracket would still be bolted firmly to the floor - the thread only holds the nut on which holds the washer on to stop the rubber from coming out. The three other mountings should stop the subframe moving very much.

[Chalkie]

That is very true

Thanks guys

I got so worrid!!