Shell painting - costs

[Pete]

Prep work is to do, including stripping : Roof, Rear quarters, bonnet, boot.
Upol Raptor Anti Stone Chip underneath

The prep will be the killer, endless hours can get sunk into that on its own so maybe why the quote is so high. I wouldn’t bother with stone chip nowadays on anything other than a rally car personally or just do under the wheel arches at a push. That sounds like a huge amount of money to me though.

[Old English White]

If they really reckon it is 240 hours work, then the price you've been quoted - which DOES seem high - is actually only about £40.00 per hour once you deduct the materials......

Gosh, we used to respray Minis at work (in the 1970s) for £50.00!

[mab01uk]

You can save quite a bit on cost by doing the stone chip of the underside yourself. (eg. see videos below).
Also do any required labour intensive paint stripping (some good tips on the Mk1 forum for this if you search, especially using clingfilm to stop the stripper drying out too quickly). On the '59 Mini I'm currently restoring with my brother the floors are mostly the original steel which we paint stripped (rather than new MM panels) so our paint guy suggested we brush paint the floors after our prep work with a suitable red oxide primer which again saves his 'skilled labour' cost/time and has resulted in a good base finish before the shell goes off to his paint shop for the final paint job.

Project 63 Episode 9 - Raptor painting the Mini!:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44vcVEFkGHA

Classic Mini Restoration Stone Chipping Part 56 ( Upol Gravitex )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arYFt3AuYvI

[Mrgoose]

My MK1 is currently being prepped for paint. I have been quoted 2.6k - 3k. I have said no rush, so it get fitted is round other jobs, and reduced the cost. The company is just outside Peterborough.

[Andrew1967]

Anyone quoting 12-15k in my opinion, does not want the job .. but if someone pays it then ‘OK we’ll do it’

[minibitz]

I can't compare costs as I'm on the other side of the planet but can offer a few observations on work I have have had done over the years.

Price is no indication of quality. I've have had reasonably priced paint done well and expensive paint done poorly. It pays to ask around as to who has a good reputation in your area and better still see if you can see some samples of their work. Also check that the painter has experience doing classic minis. They are not easy cars to prep as every panels is curved and there are all the seams to deal with. Also an experienced painter will know how and where to apply seam sealer and use a suitable product that's designed to flex, preventing unsightly cracking down the line.

Before you go nuts applying various primers, fillers etc yourself check with the painter that what you are doing is compatible with their paint system. If it isn't you will just be making more work as they will need to strip the car back to start again. Most of the better paint shops I have used insist on stripping the car back to ensure work is to their standard. They may not offer any guarantee if you have done the prep.

Don't be fobbed off if the finish is not up top snuff when you collect. All this "we'll sort out the runs and orange peel" nonsense once the car is built up is BS and simply sign of poor workmanship from a company that are only interested in the money, not doing a quality job. Any faults should be rectified before you pay and collect vehicle.

Two very important points. Never tell a painter, or any other tradesman, that there is no rush. That's a sure fire way for your car to get pushed in a corner and forgotten. Give some time frame even if it's slightly extended, of when you expect the car done and you will be more likely to see it back in months rather than years......yes, really!! Lastly, don't pay up front. If you do and the job isn't up to snuff you've got nowhere to go.

[Old English White]

All good advice there

[Exminiman]

Thanks for the replies folks, much appreciated.

You have confirmed my initial thoughts, I just cant see where 240 hours could be spent....that is six full weeks worth of work !

After the initial sharp intake of breath, I thought it could be that I was just out of touch with current costs, and I didn`t want compromise the finish....if it was just me being out of touch...

These guys were recommended by a couple of people, to be fair, they are not Mini specialists, maybe thats the difference ?

Anyway the search goes on....

[Peter Laidler]

I wonder if Jono and others might have considered doing 3/4 of the job themselves. What I mean, is this. In all honesty, the underside of the car, inside the boot and bonnet, inside of doors, boot and bonnet...... you know the sort of things..... were never prize winning works of the paint sprayers art. So why bother now. The same goes, to a lesser extent, the inside of the car. (except for the cant rail and, say, the tunnel crossmember.

That said, maybe Jono and the others could turn the car on its side, over a pile of tyres and blankets and use the underside to do-it-yourself. Just practice with primer at first, taking advice from the really helpful forumers on this site AND the paint suppliers who are also eager to help - and practice - and practice - on the undersides and the wheel wells. No doubt it'll be pretty awful and crap for the first few attempts, until there is a decent covering of paint and things will improve. But, the saving grace is that by now, you'll have more paint on these parts than your average home-decorators dust sheet.

Cheap one-way-trip compressor and paint guns etc from machine mart (or second hand and sell them on afterwards)

Bit more to go yet chaps, so wake up at the back of the class...........

Once on its feet, inside the boot and bonnet, doors etc etc etc and so on. Then, when you're feeling pretty competent, the inside of the car. By which time, the outside will have a covering of paint by default.........

Underside fitted up, rear sub frame and wheels on*, you can easily wheelbarrow the car around

Now's the time to ask the real experts. All you need them to do is to get a real expert on board to paint the whole of the outside of the car in one hit, including the doors, bonnet and boot lid. All he's got to do is correct some of your overspray cock-ups and the like and that's it. Better still, as with mine (done similarly I hasten to add) is to cover the rear wheels* and there's no masking-up either

I'm sure that the real amateurs on this site who have made superb pro jobs during their restorations using basic kit started their body painting activities. If I might pick out a few names as examples, look at Andy with HOY, Sufari with his van and DAZ with his superb, work of art 998 Cooper a couple of years ago. None of them are body painters

You'll have done most of the work too. And think about it. After your weeks of practice spraying the large unseen areas, you MIGHT like to try a body side and then....... Good luck
*I made a set of 3/4" thick shutter ply rear wheels for this job. No masking and made rolling it around easy too

[nick@dunsdale]

As a body shop owner for the last 23 years
And bodyshop guy for over 30 years

I would say 12k sounds quite high, but is what a lot of shops are now charging
As i hear on online chatter
charging 6 weeks seems a little high assuming the vehicle is reasonably square

I would have thought 4 weeks might be more like it that's giving you a couple of weeks prep
a week in primer and sealer detailing
and a week for painting and polishing

But this all depends on the customer expectation as well are they looking for a

A high standard with no imperfections to be seen
Or as above plus as good underneath as on top ( basically better than it ever was when new )

I would say taking it to another level inside outside and underneath could easily morph into 6 weeks

I would aslo say going in to 2-3 k repaints will be a real lottery where a bodyshop owner will go one of two ways

They will either go above and beyond and burn hours on to make the customer happy and keep their good name

Or they will be balls deep in it and realise they havent quoted enough and either ask for more money
or they will shortcut the job to come in on budget

I would advise to look for a 5-7k shop and then get one that has lots of positive reviews

But as mentioned above there will be shops that will do a good job lower at the lower end
it is just finding one that you can trust to not be disappointed in your 3k spend

[mab01uk]

I wonder if Jono and others might have considered doing 3/4 of the job themselves. What I mean, is this. In all honesty, the underside of the car, inside the boot and bonnet, inside of doors, boot and bonnet...... you know the sort of things..... were never prize winning works of the paint sprayers art. So why bother now. The same goes, to a lesser extent, the inside of the car. (except for the cant rail and, say, the tunnel crossmember.

That said, maybe Jono and the others could turn the car on its side, over a pile of tyres and blankets and use the underside to do-it-yourself.................

That exact process you describe Peter has worked for me too to keep painting costs within reason...but rather than a pile of tyres and blankets a rollover jig/body spit makes the work a lot easier, you can buy ready made off ebay (or some make their own) and it can be sold on after your restoration project is finished. However don't sell it on unless you are sure it really is your last Mini restoration project...been there done that!

[Exminiman]

I wonder if Jono and others might have considered doing 3/4 of the job themselves. What I mean, is this. In all honesty, the underside of the car, inside the boot and bonnet, inside of doors, boot and bonnet...... you know the sort of things..... were never prize winning works of the paint sprayers art. So why bother now. The same goes, to a lesser extent, the inside of the car. (except for the cant rail and, say, the tunnel crossmember.

That said, maybe Jono and the others could turn the car on its side, over a pile of tyres and blankets and use the underside to do-it-yourself. Just practice with primer at first, taking advice from the really helpful forumers on this site AND the paint suppliers who are also eager to help - and practice - and practice - on the undersides and the wheel wells. No doubt it'll be pretty awful and crap for the first few attempts, until there is a decent covering of paint and things will improve. But, the saving grace is that by now, you'll have more paint on these parts than your average home-decorators dust sheet.

Cheap one-way-trip compressor and paint guns etc from machine mart (or second hand and sell them on afterwards)

Bit more to go yet chaps, so wake up at the back of the class...........

Once on its feet, inside the boot and bonnet, doors etc etc etc and so on. Then, when you're feeling pretty competent, the inside of the car. By which time, the outside will have a covering of paint by default.........

Underside fitted up, rear sub frame and wheels on*, you can easily wheelbarrow the car around

Now's the time to ask the real experts. All you need them to do is to get a real expert on board to paint the whole of the outside of the car in one hit, including the doors, bonnet and boot lid. All he's got to do is correct some of your overspray cock-ups and the like and that's it. Better still, as with mine (done similarly I hasten to add) is to cover the rear wheels* and there's no masking-up either

I'm sure that the real amateurs on this site who have made superb pro jobs during their restorations using basic kit started their body painting activities. If I might pick out a few names as examples, look at Andy with HOY, Sufari with his van and DAZ with his superb, work of art 998 Cooper a couple of years ago. None of them are body painters

You'll have done most of the work too. And think about it. After your weeks of practice spraying the large unseen areas, you MIGHT like to try a body side and then....... Good luck
*I made a set of 3/4" thick shutter ply rear wheels for this job. No masking and made rolling it around easy too

Thanks for the advice, but to be honest it’s precisely because I have done it in the the past I dont want to do it now. If its their prep then it’s their finish…..

[Polarsilver]

As a reference on paint costs today on C&C ..Bodyshop is selling a Toyota GT4 the advert says car just has a £5k paintjob .

[Peter Laidler]

See where you're coming from ExMiniman, but doing it this way, you're only asking them to prepare and paint the OUTSIDE of the shell to a pro standard. You will have prepared and painted the remainder, where the finish is really academic in any case. As a bonus, you'll have put a LOT more paint on the underside and inside the bonnet and boot.

No doubt, the pro paint shop will prefer a totally bare, rolling (or semi rolling/wheelbarrow) shell with absolutely no masking up. Doors, boot lid and bonnet hanging free (together with the hinges) with just the outers to prep and paint. An easy prep and paint job I say

[swifty]

So a few forum members know my background. I’ve been painting cars my whole working life , over 40 years . To say that there is no masking painting a shell is far from reality , it doesn’t work like that at all . WHY ? . Just putting the colour on once it’s in last stage of prep and primer all flatted requires a number of hits of painting if you’re painting for a concours result and giving the customer his 12grands worth . First hit , turn it upside down on a spit and paint the underside masking the whole rest of the car .
Second hit mask the underside and outside panels then paint inside cabin , boot area , under bonnet , inside of doors , bonnet, boot .
Third hit , mask insde of shell and panels and paint outside of shell and panels , less the roof ( different colour)
Forth hit , mask shell and paint roof
Fifth hit . All the bits to hang up , IE ; door and boot hinges , bonnet stay and clip , boot brackets if riveted after . Bonnet hinges and catch , radius arm shrouds.
Painting the inside of the shell and outside at the same time and you will have a fur coat . So as you can see already without drying times this can go into ten days work . As for the prep and primer it typical that the metal man will leave final gapping of panels to the painter because he hasn’t thought of the build up of paint on the edges resulting in a disappearing door gap . That’s if he has even bothered to fit the doors shutting on door rubbers . I could go on and on . So I can understand peoples concern about paying 12 K and getting a 3k tosh over . If the painter says he’s doing a concours job in 4 weeks I would look elsewhere. I can honestly take 6 to 10 weeks depending on condition of the shell . So imagine if your employee is on a grand a week ( down south wages ) plus materials , it all ads up …. Shirley

[TECH396]

So a few forum members know my background. I’ve been painting cars my whole working life , over 40 years . To say that there is no masking painting a shell is far from reality , it doesn’t work like that at all . WHY ? . Just putting the colour on once it’s in last stage of prep and primer all flatted requires a number of hits of painting if you’re painting for a concours result and giving the customer his 12grands worth . First hit , turn it upside down on a spit and paint the underside masking the whole rest of the car .
Second hit mask the underside and outside panels then paint inside cabin , boot area , under bonnet , inside of doors , bonnet, boot .
Third hit , mask insde of shell and panels and paint outside of shell and panels , less the roof ( different colour)
Forth hit , mask shell and paint roof
Fifth hit . All the bits to hang up , IE ; door and boot hinges , bonnet stay and clip , boot brackets if riveted after . Bonnet hinges and catch , radius arm shrouds.
Painting the inside of the shell and outside at the same time and you will have a fur coat . So as you can see already without drying times this can go into ten days work . As for the prep and primer it typical that the metal man will leave final gapping of panels to the painter because he hasn’t thought of the build up of paint on the edges resulting in a disappearing door gap . That’s if he has even bothered to fit the doors shutting on door rubbers . I could go on and on . So I can understand peoples concern about paying 12 K and getting a 3k tosh over . If the painter says he’s doing a concours job in 4 weeks I would look elsewhere. I can honestly take 6 to 10 weeks depending on condition of the shell . So imagine if your employee is on a grand a week ( down south wages ) plus materials , it all ads up …. Shirley

Here, Here ! I couldn't agree more. The final prep and and paint from the stage described here for a bare shell can easily take up 240hrs if you are wanting specific and perfect results. Here in Canada I recently bought the paint materials for my car (at wholesale pricing). When I say "paint materials", I mean Primer, Primer activator, tinted paint, reducers, wax and grease removers, Tack cloths, masking tape, masking paper, plastic protection covering, 400,600,800 grit sanding materials, polish, etc etc. cost over 4kcdn or 2500quid it all ads up fast. I was fortunate to be able to get my car to the painters at the 400grit stage and it still took 100hrs to get it completed to a high standard, Shop rates here for final prep and paint are as high as 80-90gbp per hr if you need to pay someone for their shop space, electrical costs to run a Booth, compressors etc. It's not a cheap proposition anymore. I don't think 12k is unrealistic for a high quality job.

[Tupers]

Masking is an ungodly time sapper. I did this one last year for a friend and I was sick of the sight of tape by the end of it. Nothing but respect for people who do it every day.

Exterior masked around the sill/arch flange plus every hole in the floor and inner wings masked from the inside for Raptor.

A39F20B6-A592-424E-8AE3-763F7175334D.jpeg

8DD784F1-500F-40B6-97BA-DB53B3D7D2FA.jpeg

Underside masked and every hole masked from the outside of the floor and bulkhead to paint the interior.

B0114847-BCB5-4D21-8BC0-F1D825E81E3F.jpeg

Door and window apertures masked and every front and rear bulkhead hole masked to paint the boot and engine bay.

C06E4319-5DA5-4AF4-8035-0DD594DDAE14.jpeg

C904A6B7-B0E4-45C8-A94B-F9089F2CFCA4.jpeg