Uprated clutch arms.

[tweedy998]

Hi all, in the interests of reliability and usability, I'm thinking about replacing the original clutch arm, plunger, release bearing etc on our '65 Cooper to one of the more substantial items from either Swiftune, MED or Mini Spares. They all seem quite similar, so does anyone have any experience or opinion on which is the best option?
Cheers! Ed.

[Fanfaniracing]

My old Master used to make such Heavy duty Cluch arms for his 24h Racer some 20 years ago because the upgraded Arms tend to break under the heavy Clutch disphragm.

He lasered his own out of excavator shovel steel. I think the 1. he made is still in use...

I personally have one of the Minispares ones fitted and since i put it in, it works...

[Tim]

I used an uprated one on my Moke. Mine came from Mini Spares but I think they're the same from all of the mainstream suppliers. It lasted about 2 1/2 years of low mileage driving before the ball broke off. I built up the worn-out ball on the original one with weld, filed it round, and now I'm good for another 40 years.

Tim

[imack]

I've been using the MED release arm and plunger for about 7 years now with an orange diaphragm - faultless so far.

[Rusty old S]

I use them , no problem the contact point is wider , it’s a slot and pad as the original BMC fitment is hole and ball thus having a small contact area and wears away.

[Peter Laidler]

I've never had a problem with the original arm, plunger or bearing and a believer in the '.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it....' camp.

That said, I do like the idea of the wider linear radiussed pad for greater surface area. But just how much greater the two areas are is a matter of conjecture - and not easily ascertained - I'd say.

At that, I'd just say to keep an eye on what you have. Easy to remove (the arm and axis pins...) and feel for unwanted ridges. Grease up and carry on. Don;t forget...... If it slides, like the ball in the plunger, pack it with graphite grease. (I use graphite on the two axis points too).

As a local classic car pal of mine told me recently, '.....classic car owners have been subject to more mickey-mouse metallurgy and materials than anyone else on earth.......' True!

[agricola]

Im a moment of weekness I tried a grey competition diaphram it bent the arm so I would recomend changing the arm for that sort of use.

[Richspec]

ive used the minispares one on all my builds, usually with the orange diaphragm. No issues raised themselves yet.

[tweedy998]

Thanks all for the replies, very much appreciate all the insights, I think weighing up the pricing and availability I'm probably going to go for MED or Minispares. I just feel that the redesigned cam-type ended arm and plunger seem more substantial. I know it's not 'original' but it's one of those dilemmas of keep it original and have to treat it extra gently or fit more robust parts which can stand up to more enthusiastic driving. I've never had a look at the clutch in Tweed, but given how it performs and feels on the pedal, it wouldn't surprise me to find an orange diaphragm in there.

What has also actually prompted this, is a new noise when the clutch pedal is pressed down when idling, it sounds to me like the release bearing is on it's way out (a light grinding noise), I'd expect this to last more than the couple of thousand miles it's probably done, so do feel this area needs some uprating.

[Exminiman]

I've never had a problem with the original arm, plunger or bearing and a believer in the '.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it....' camp.
As a local classic car pal of mine told me recently, '.....classic car owners have been subject to more mickey-mouse metallurgy and materials than anyone else on earth.......' True!

I also have not had many issues with standard set up, with standard clutch, equally don't do loads of miles these days …

For a “Competition” clutch arm to fail in normal (not competition) use, does not sound great.

I also wonder whether the metal “ bearing” surfaces are hard enough for the application, maybe thats why the ball are of a bigger radius, to try and compensate for the material softness ?

The makers of competition arms, may also argue that the arms are just designed to get to the end of a race or a season what ever…