Rod change shifter- can't get into reverse.

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

I haven't torn into it yet... just mulling the problem over in my mind.

I've researched what i could here on the site.
Searching found a couple referances.

But-
The problem i have is that i can't get into reverse.
Meaning i cant find it easily in the shifting pattern.

It's almost as if I'd have to remove the drivers seat, the shift lever goes that far right when trying to locate it, right into the seat.

I got it once- while taking a test drive recently.
I know reverse gear works, it will engage.

Just not able to shift into it.

So what are some things to look for when i get the time to tear into it and attempt to figure it out?

[Workinprogress]

Silly question, but you know you must lift to gearshift to get to reverse.
Bruce

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

Not a silly question at all.
Appreciate the response!

First cooper.

Driven american made manuals for years- and I've always pushed down.

Hmm... will check this out again.
My gearshift knob is also very loose, and bends froms side to side... making lifting difficult.

Will look into both.

[robanzac]

Silly question, but you know you must lift to gearshift to get to reverse.
Bruce

I am pleased you mentioned this Bruce.
I nearly did but chickened out for fear of being patronising.
Anyway just for the record:
- remote changes, hard right to overcome a detent past the 3-4 gate and then back (no ups or downs)
- rod changes, right and lift gets you past the 3-4 gate and then back

['S'-type]

As above by robaanzac.
You should have the remote type in a 64 car. The one with the long alloy casing which was used until about 72 or 73.
I would be very surprised if you had the rod change set up, although with a bit of butchery to the tunnel they can be made to fit!
I think it's a question of semantics. You are calling the remote change a rod change.
If that is the case, no lifting of the stick is involved.

Potential issues are the detent on 3-4 gate inhibiting selection of reverse or maybe a loose pinch bolt making for sloppy linkage.

Some ideas here
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... o-reverse/

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

Oh, it's definately a rod change setup.

Later 1275A+ engine in car, which i recently had the pleasure of removing.

Getting that... (insert multiple charming words here) small retaining pin out of the rod coupling end at the gearbox was a huge pain!

[Peter Laidler]

Rod change....... that makes life easier. If it were me, I would disconnect the rod change completely from the gearbox. Then I'd attempt to change gear from BELOW the car, using the rod attachment points. Sit someone inside to keep the clutch depressed if it makes life easier! If you can change into all 4 and reverse gears - especially reverse, then you KNOW that it is a rod-end problem. Which I suspect it is. Maybe one of the roll pins that's partially sheared

If not....... It's a gear box problem!

[Spider]

Oh, it's definately a rod change setup.

Later 1275A+ engine in car, which i recently had the pleasure of removing.

Getting that... (insert multiple charming words here) small retaining pin out of the rod coupling end at the gearbox was a huge pain!

There is (or was) someone offering a screw press tool for getting these out, they cleverly hook around the back of the Coupling, then they have a Screw that you wind in with a spanner to press the Pin Out.



Many of us have bashed away and cursed at worn and burred over pins, eventually getting them out. Later after filling them with out, we have then cursed at the stupid set up that leaks oil. Bashing away at the Pin often distorts the casing where it's been machined for the Spool (that in turn holds the Shift Input Shaft), resulting in the Spool being very loose in the Case, to the point that it's beyond the take up range of the seal,,,,, then they leak,,,,, The Anti-leak kits can help here, but if it's distorted bad enough, not even these will work.

[robanzac]

Handy looking tool there spider - I might make one
I fitted a quick release coupling to my rod change a few years ago - seems to work fine
MiniSpares MSG13
(Sorry, I realise this isn't adding any intel to your "can't get into reverse problem")

msg13.PNG

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

Handy looking tool there spider - I might make one
I fitted a quick release coupling to my rod change a few years ago - seems to work fine
MiniSpares MSG13
(Sorry, I realise this isn't adding any intel to your "can't get into reverse problem")
msg13.PNG

Contrary sir.... I'm learning!
Every car has it's own... eccentricities.
The more information i glean along the way- the more I'll get to enjoy my car.

An old aircooled VW guy previously- I learned this quickly.

I find the cooper falls squarely, and perfectly in that catagory!

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

First try the 2 bobbins that hold the shifter box onto the body, if these are knackered it can cause the whole assembly to turn clockwise meaning reverse can be impossible as the lever will hit the seat First, next there are 2 replaceable bushes in the shift housing which causes a lot of slop on the rods, while you have the selector box out check the yoke and ball on the end of the gear lever.

MS

Great info to think about- i noticed those "bobbins" in several parts kits and replacement parts diagrams.

To know what effect they can have, leads me where i need to really pay attention.

Thank you sir, all!!

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

Spider- i spent several hours contemplating throwing everything in my reach in the garage that day! Lol...

What i wound up using was some automatic transmission fluid, mixed with acetone as a penetrating oil.

Soaked it overnight, and next day- a smaller drift punch to tap it and break it free.

Once loose, it moved well.
Just getting it there was a fight.

[Rubber Sprung]

Worst case scenario ,didn't the bush move inside the reverse gear on A+ boxes ?

[Spider]

Worst case scenario ,didn't the bush move inside the reverse gear on A+ boxes ?

Yes, with the 2 piece bushes, that would happen, however, it doesn't stop Reverse being selected, instead, it doesn't allow you to get properly out of Reverse. At first, the shift becomes quite stiff across the Neutral Gate, then as the bush comes out further, Reverse and almost Neutral is all you can select.

[Peter Laidler]

Is it a daft question and I've got a late Rover Cooper Sport - but to reassemble the linkage to the gearbox couldn't you use high tensile steel bolts instead of roll pins?

[TECH396]

Just a thought as It's been a while since I've done any of these, but as I recall, you need to select reverse to get the roll pin all the way out.
So, If the roll pin were to partially work its way out, would it foul the case and not allow reverse to be selected.?

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

A wealth of information and thoughts.

Thank you again gentlemen.
My mind rolls on towards this weekend at which time i shall tackle it!

[Joel Welsh 4769VU]

Well, figured out the gearshift knob issue.

Someone was fond of jamming rubber hoses into places they ought not be on this car... I've found several so far. The oil pressure guage line was clamped with doubled bits of hose- round a hose to make up space for improper sized clamps.

The same was used for my shift knob.
A rubber hose jammed in the knob, and "threaded" on the shifter shaft.

No wonder it wobbled and tilted wierd.