Front wheel bearings Mk1 Austin 850

[twc641]

A little play on my right side Ft wheel bearings
Replaced with new bearings from Mini Sport now more play
Front brakes refitted with cooper 7.5 rotors
Pictures attached
Torqued axle nut to spec's 150 ftlbs
A bit late in the day ,my thought is to check the spacer that came with the new bearings that goes between the two bearing is to to thick not allowing to compress enough
Can use more input
Thanx
John

[timmy201]

Edit: Sorry reread and noticed you said 7.5” discs

Either the bearing spacer is too wide, or the hub is worn where the bearings shells locate

[twc641]

Hello Timmy
There was no spacer
I just removed the old bearing and replaced with new
that spacer is for front drum brakes

[twc641]

I posted this late my time had a feeling you would respond ,Tim!!!!!!

[twc641]

I did add shims to take up the space between the bearing and the splines on the drive shaft and did not make a difference

[Spider]

Some after market bearings have 1/2 the spacer built in to each inner bearing, but there is a spacer used.

The Bearing assemblies for these are a matched set so that all the components end up set in the right place to suit the Register in the Hub. There is no adjustment or shims used what so ever.

It's typical of non-genuine bearings to be too tight, or some being loose, like your new set as they are not a match set and no fit for purpose from my experience.

This is not a how to but will show some things to check for and why it's important to use properly match bearings, which Timken are the only suppliers for;-

https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... -bearings/

I have very recently received advice from Timken that while the assemblies are still matched, they are no longer engraved as they once were.

Also, these being for disc brakes, the correct tightness of the nut is either 150 or 200 ft/lb depending upon which CV you have.

[twc641]

thank you Tim and Spider
I will check the thicknes of the both spacers
I looked at your post Spider and will check further

[Peter Laidler]

Here is a rule of thumb. If your hub or wheel is too loose, the spacer is too wide. Too tight and the spacer is too narrow. It really is as simple as that. NEVER, BUT NEVER EVER trust the thickness of the bearing that comes with the kit are right for your car.

Always check with the bearings are DRY and without hub seals as these add rotary friction. Adjust a wide bearing by taking metal off it a sliver at a time. Or adding a shim a bit at a time if it is too tight. When all correct with just the right amount of free play, then grease-up, fit seals etc and lock-up.

Timken told me many years ago that a golf-ball sized blob of grease is all that is required per front and rear hub

That's only my humble opinion as an engineer over 60 years or so. And as I always say, I could be wrong and stand to be corrected

[Spider]

Here is a rule of thumb. If your hub or wheel is too loose, the spacer is too wide. Too tight and the spacer is too narrow. It really is as simple as that. NEVER, BUT NEVER EVER trust the thickness of the bearing that comes with the kit are right for your car.

Always check with the bearings are DRY and without hub seals as these add rotary friction. Adjust a wide bearing by taking metal off it a sliver at a time. Or adding a shim a bit at a time if it is too tight. When all correct with just the right amount of free play, then grease-up, fit seals etc and lock-up.

Timken told me many years ago that a golf-ball sized blob of grease is all that is required per front and rear hub

That's only my humble opinion as an engineer over 60 years or so. And as I always say, I could be wrong and stand to be corrected

Pete, the Tapered Roller Bearings are set such that with the register in the hub at 0.406 thick, they should have 0.004" Preload

[twc641]

Thank you ,Peter and Spider
I will be taking the new bearing and spacer out today and comparing ( the spacer was my 1st thought)
Also considering new drive flanges and outer taper collars as well,heaven knows how old they are!
In Spiders post on the miniforum my issue may just be the outer collar worn
will update later ...........

[twc641]

Here is a pic of the ft drive flange with the collar when i first removed it
the inner pic is with my original post

[Peter Laidler]

I didn't get that bit Chris where he mentioned taper rollers. A mini 850 fronts are ball races - yes?

Mind you, fitting taper rollers is a good idea. Greater load area and bearers.

But I have learned never to trust bearing sets with collars to be a direct replacement fit.

As for new or better drive flanges..... They're not renowned for wearing out as such.

[Andrew1967]

The question is, is it the bearing loose in the hub or the drive flange loose on the bearing ?

[Spider]

I didn't get that bit Chris where he mentioned taper rollers. A mini 850 fronts are ball races - yes?

True but dimensionally as units the bearing assemblies and insides of the hubs are the same, though, as he's now running discs, and hubs to suit, I must admit, I made an assumption on the bearing type fitted.

[Peter Laidler]

Yep, you are dead right.

[twc641]

ok here is what i have............
And should have looked at the components a whole lot better, boy am i slipping!!!!
burn marks at the outer part of the bearing races
burrs and grooving at the hub where the races seat and at the inner of the drive flange that meets the outer bearing
going to replace drive flange, outer taper collar, right side hub ,and Timken bearing kit

[twc641]

here are my measurements

[Peter Laidler]

It is very much a practical thing and not theoretical I say....... Don't be too critical of your hubs. Give the bearing surfaces a good scrub. If the new taper roller outers (we call them the 'cups') are a stonking good press fit, then that is all you can ask.

I have done quite a few and use a slave CV joint, welded to a piece on the other end, held in a vice. Then set the hub and bearings up on that. Simplicity itself.

A bit more technical now........ In reverse.......! Don't forget, that with the CV held fast in a vice,
the NUT loads the large diameter WASHER;
which loads the OUTER CONE;
which loads up the by now, accurately set SPACER;
which loads up the INNER cone;
against the shoulder on the CV joint.

When the spacer is the CORRECT thickness for your particular hub and taper roller bearing set, the HUB will rotate cleanly with very little end=float. This is perfection. That's why I,personally, NEVER, ever, not never trust the packaged bearing set spacer thickness. Because they are generic. Your hubs and shafts aint....., they're worn
I appreciate that this is arse about face because the CV is rigid and the hub is free to rotate. But that is the way to do it on a bench holding the CV in the vice.

I know it goes against the grain and there are plenty who will shout out aloud and jump up and down here but don't forget that a bearing that is a finger push fit into a hub (we used to say, UP TO .004" then loctite bearing lock is acceptable. After all, the bearing cups ain't goin;' nowhere.......

That was a rule of thumb in our big bearing inspection bay where some Centurion track bogie and idler bearings cost £1,000. They don''t go fast but they carry a LOT of weight!

[twc641]

Thank you Peter
Very useful information
I do like your technique using the slave CV
I will advise when my install is complete