I know green sender units are for the non stabilised gauges but why are there two different senders for stabilised ones (namely red or black).
Is there any difference and if so, are the gauges themselves different and need to be matched to the sender ?
Difference in temperature sender units
- Andrew1967
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- Spider
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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
There's 2 here because in the late 70's BL went from an 82 to 88 degree thermostat.
The difference between them keeps the needle on the N in the gauge at normal running temp.
I can't recall off hand which is which.
The difference between them keeps the needle on the N in the gauge at normal running temp.
I can't recall off hand which is which.
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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
Thanks for the reply Chris.
Just trying to get to bottom of HOY appearing to run a little warm according to the gauge.
It shows just past N (needle is past N not covering it) when driving along and then 2/3rds between N and H when sat in traffic. Soon goes back again. When stopped for a few mins and start up it’s almost on H. Doesn’t overheat or chuck any water out or anything to indicate it’s too hot .
That said it’s only done about 60 miles or so since a rebuild and it’s still tight . Maybe I’m over thinking things ??
I’m running a genuine Smiths red sender with what I think is the correct gauge (stabilised type).
Any thoughts anyone ?
Just trying to get to bottom of HOY appearing to run a little warm according to the gauge.
It shows just past N (needle is past N not covering it) when driving along and then 2/3rds between N and H when sat in traffic. Soon goes back again. When stopped for a few mins and start up it’s almost on H. Doesn’t overheat or chuck any water out or anything to indicate it’s too hot .
That said it’s only done about 60 miles or so since a rebuild and it’s still tight . Maybe I’m over thinking things ??
I’m running a genuine Smiths red sender with what I think is the correct gauge (stabilised type).
Any thoughts anyone ?
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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
I was just about to answer something along the lines of Spider Chris above but by adding that so far as I recall, the gauge also changed at the same time the gauge was changed to C - N - H.
Am I correct in my thoughts about the gauge screen (the dial or face) markings?
Am I correct in my thoughts about the gauge screen (the dial or face) markings?
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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
Sorry Andrew no helpful thoughts to the issue...Andrew1967 wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2023 9:32 am Thanks for the reply Chris.
Just trying to get to bottom of HOY appearing to run a little warm according to the gauge.
It shows just past N (needle is past N not covering it) when driving along and then 2/3rds between N and H when sat in traffic. Soon goes back again. When stopped for a few mins and start up it’s almost on H. Doesn’t overheat or chuck any water out or anything to indicate it’s too hot .
That said it’s only done about 60 miles or so since a rebuild and it’s still tight . Maybe I’m over thinking things ??
I’m running a genuine Smiths red sender with what I think is the correct gauge (stabilised type).
Any thoughts anyone ?
however, just wondering what your 60 miles (so far) of driving experience in Hoy have been like? has it been relaxing? fun? a little bit concerning with other road users around?
- Spider
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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
Hey Andrew glad to read you have HOY on the road, been at it for a while and nice to hear that's paying off now.
If I can suggest, first thing I'd do here is test the gauge / sender and see what N actually is according to that.
The other thing I have found in recent-ish years is that all the current temp senders that I've tried from many suppliers all make the gauges show hot when in fact all is well.
I now use the 'generic' Smiths Sender TT-6811-01 with an adaptor that I turn up, though they are likely commercially available.
Pete - yes mate, I recall the change on the faces. Not sure when that was in the UK, but I think it was 68 or 69 here.
If I can suggest, first thing I'd do here is test the gauge / sender and see what N actually is according to that.
The other thing I have found in recent-ish years is that all the current temp senders that I've tried from many suppliers all make the gauges show hot when in fact all is well.
I now use the 'generic' Smiths Sender TT-6811-01 with an adaptor that I turn up, though they are likely commercially available.
Pete - yes mate, I recall the change on the faces. Not sure when that was in the UK, but I think it was 68 or 69 here.
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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
Or you could try something like this > https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/automati ... ve-labels/Andrew1967 wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2023 9:32 am Thanks for the reply Chris.
Just trying to get to bottom of HOY appearing to run a little warm according to the gauge.
It shows just past N (needle is past N not covering it) when driving along and then 2/3rds between N and H when sat in traffic. Soon goes back again. When stopped for a few mins and start up it’s almost on H. Doesn’t overheat or chuck any water out or anything to indicate it’s too hot .
That said it’s only done about 60 miles or so since a rebuild and it’s still tight . Maybe I’m over thinking things ??
I’m running a genuine Smiths red sender with what I think is the correct gauge (stabilised type).
Any thoughts anyone ?

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Re: Difference in temperature sender units
If you are happy with the running and temperature Andy, have you ever thought about recalibrating the gauge slightly?
Easily (?) done by using the cam through the rear againstbthe moving plate to set the zero or known datum
Easily (?) done by using the cam through the rear againstbthe moving plate to set the zero or known datum