chromium plating

[richardACS]

With a Mk 1 - I would be interested in whether it is better to rechrome original parts or purchase new items - for example; ash tray holders, rear number plate glass 'cover', boot handle, *door handle and escutcheon, **rear window hinge bar, rear window open/lock assembly.

[TECH396]

In my opinion it's always best to use the original bits but It's EXPENSIVE nowadays, at least here in Canada, because the quality of the plated items available today is (for the most part) junk. If you choose to re-plate, make sure you get a good plater that wont polish all the detail out of the original metal. Some platers are capable of making things very shiny, but lose some of the finer details when they prep the parts. In example Those sharp edges on the boot lid and door handles, or the corner edges on the ashtrays are easily lost if in the wrong hands. Here's a cost example.. I had 2 x 5 stud bumpers professionally re-plated. I did 95% of the prep/metalwork prior to sending them them away for plating and they cost me $1000, equal to about 650GBP today. I've heard stories of the replacement bumpers lasting as little as 1 year before showing signs of fatigue.

[richardACS]

In my opinion it's always best to use the original bits but It's EXPENSIVE nowadays, at lease here in Canada, because the quality of the plated items available today is (for the most part) junk. If you choose to re-plate, make sure you get a good plater that wont polish all the detail out of the original metal. Some platers are capable of making things very shiny, but lose some of the finer details when they prep the parts. In example Those sharp edges on the boot lid and door handles, or the corner edges on the ashtrays are easily lost if in the wrong hands. Here's a cost example.. I had 2 x 5 stud bumpers professionally re-plated. I did 95% of the prep/metalwork prior to sending them them away for plating and they cost me $1000, equal to about 650GBP today. I've heard stories of the replacement bumpers lasting as little as 1 year before showing signs of fatigue.

Thank you Paul - when you say you did 95% of the prep work - what is that you did? I would happily prepare items...

When plating for example the rear quarter windows (Mk 1) it's in my mind that the whole thing has to be taken completely apart down to the frame joining sections i.e. the 6/32 threaded plate and also the other end of the threaded plate where it is held to the frame with copper rivets, each part I assume should be totally individual. And I guess the head of the new copper rivets will also need to be chromium plated separately...

The door handles - I need to remove the lock barrel on the drivers side but have yet to understand how to remove the barrel, also the escutcheon - have you been down this road?

[TECH396]

As far as the lock barrel removal goes, you will need your key installed to actuate the wafers inside, and you'll also need a 1/16" (or similar) pin punch to remove the pin that retains the lock assy. along with a holding vice. There are plenty of DIY videos out there specific to the mk1 cars, both for the Boot lid and the Door handles. The boot lock requires removal of the peens used to assemble the lock. They might be here in the technical area. Let me know if you want me to find some decent ones for you and I will send a few links, or if I get a minute, I'll add them here. As far as the Prep work on the bumpers goes, I did all the dent removal and hand filing the metal smooth. The process to remove the chrome is a reverse electrical process to the chroming process, so it's done by the plating shop. As far as the rear window frames are concerned, it depends on the level of perfection you are attempting to achieve. You are correct in re-chroming all parts individually but that can become a painstaking process that you may not want to be bothered with but if you do, be sure to protect any threads from the chroming. Those tiny 1/4 window screws don't like threads with chrome on them,,

These may help... I'll add more as I come across any.

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19924

[richardACS]

As far as the lock barrel removal goes, you will need your key installed to actuate the wafers inside, and you'll also need a 1/16" (or similar) pin punch to remove the pin that retains the lock assy. along with a holding vice. There are plenty of DIY videos out there specific to the mk1 cars, both for the Boot lid and the Door handles. The boot lock requires removal of the peens used to assemble the lock. They might be here in the technical area. Let me know if you want me to find some decent ones for you and I will send a few links, or if I get a minute, I'll add them here. As far as the Prep work on the bumpers goes, I did all the dent removal and hand filing the metal smooth. The process to remove the chrome is a reverse electrical process to the chroming process, so it's done by the plating shop. As far as the rear window frames are concerned, it depends on the level of perfection you are attempting to achieve. You are correct in re-chroming all parts individually but that can become a painstaking process that you may not want to be bothered with but if you do, be sure to protect any threads from the chroming. Those tiny 1/4 window screws don't like threads with chrome on them,,

These may help... I'll add more as I come across any.

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19924

Thanks for such a comprehensive reply - unfortunately keys are missing. I'll also check out the DIY videos. I suppose they could be drilled out...

Thanks also re protecting the threads - I believe the threads are a 6/32 (happened to find one in my old tool box)...

[TECH396]

[/quote]

Thanks for such a comprehensive reply - unfortunately keys are missing. I'll also check out the DIY videos. I suppose they could be drilled out...

The shafts are stamped with the key code, so you should be able to find a key, or have one replicated at a locksmith, provided no one has messed with the tumblers in the past.

Thanks also re protecting the threads - I believe the threads are a 6/32 (happened to find one in my old tool box)...
[/quote]
Many of the threads used were a BA thread. Very similar to a /32 so be careful. I can't recall what those are.

[mk1]

It all depends on how bad things have corroded. Monkey metal items like door locks & handles are better sourced as NOS / good second hand, & are relatively easy to find. It is also very difficult to re-chrome successfully.

Things like the No. Plate light & ash tray usually re-chrome well as long as the guy knows what he is doing & there isn't too much corrosion. These can also usually be found quite easily second hand.

I rarely re-chrome much apart from bumpers nowadays as it is usually easier to find good second hand than pay the extortionate prices for re-chroming.

If you do get stuff re-chromed, go to someone who cares & can show you good examples of their work, there are still a lot of "fly by night" Chromers who will give your item a quick polish & a flash over with Chrome if they can get away with it.

I only use http://derbyplating.co.uk/ now. Their work is superb, but you don't have pay for the privilege!

[richardACS]

It all depends on how bad things have corroded. Monkey metal items like door locks & handles are better sourced as NOS / good second hand, & are relatively easy to find. It is also very difficult to re-chrome successfully.

Things like the No. Plate light & ash tray usually re-chrome well as long as the guy knows what he is doing & there isn't too much corrosion. These can also usually be found quite easily second hand.

I rarely re-chrome much apart from bumpers nowadays as it is usually easier to find good second hand than pay the extortionate prices for re-chroming.

If you do get stuff re-chromed, go to someone who cares & can show you good examples of their work, there are still a lot of "fly by night" Chromers who will give your item a quick polish & a flash over with Chrome if they can get away with it.

I only use http://derbyplating.co.uk/ now. Their work is superb, but you don't have pay for the privilege!

Its the flippin 1965 passenger door handle which seems only to be available with a lock tumbler..

I have used Derby plating in the past and no complaints - also heard that ACF Howell were good and are a little nearer - not keen to post...

[mk1]

The no lock door handles come up pretty regularly.

I put a wanted add up last summer & had lots of offers.

M