Rubber sealing ring (2A7327) replacement Hydrolastic

[Rubbersoul]

Hello. I am new to the forum having just taken ownership of a 1968 Mini Cooper and it looks like there are some really helpful people on here.
When I looked at my top front suspension arm over the weekend the front rubber sealing rings that stops the road salt and crud from attacking the bearings have both failed.
The car was rebuilt a few years ago and I think the ones that have failed are the 'new' type rubber that fails in no time.(the back ones are perfect and look like original 'proper' rubber)
I want to replace these rubber sealing rings (2A7327) with the least amount of work possible
As the car is Hydrolastic is there a way of doing this without deflating the whole suspension as unfortunately I don't have access to a pump.
It looks like I would have to support the front displacer while I manoeuvred the suspension pin out to slip the replacement on???
It may not be possible but it would make life easier if it is
Thank you. Jack

[Peter Laidler]

Welcome aboard Jack. First, congrats on acquiring one of those great, tough-as-old-boots reliable and impossible to over-rev and reliable little 998 Coopers. I love 'em to bits. My all-time favourites.

Alas, sadly, to replace those two-per-side little black dust and crap collars you have to lower the hydro suspension. That's the BAD news.......

The GOOD news is that you only have to deflate the system as opposed to evacuate the system. That means you only have to let it down to its neutral position which is simplicity itself with a little easy-to-make little hose thinggy*. That done, you can do the job and just pump the system up again. All without the aid of 'The Dalek'
* read back articles about the suspension and pics of the little adapted hydro-deflator hose thinggy.

MORE good news is that you don't need to buy the crap replacement rubber rings. Just get yourself a short length of reinforced neoprene hose of that diameter and do what I do. Just slice a few off. I did mine on a lathe. In fact I did a load if you want a set for the cost of the postage!

The displacer unit SHOULD hold itself in place when you do the job but it's no hassle to keep it in place while you're down there doing the job. I just shoved a bit of wood under the hose in the engine bay that kept the displacer in place.

Just deflating or lowering the suspension to neutral and inflating it again is simple. I have a simple 'grease;gun' type liquid inflator that I've had for 40 years and it's still going strong and my suspension has been up and down more times that a whores draws.

Can I just say as an afterthought, DO NOT LET HYDROLASTIC FRIGHTEN YOU

[Rubbersoul]

Thank you Peter. When you say neutral position can you elaborate please?
Very good suggestion on the neoprene for the future. I have some old top arms in my shed which still have good original sealing washers on so I will fit them.

[Peter Laidler]

By Neutral, I mean the pressure released and car lowered to its unpresurised height. Simply lower to its lowest point by releasing fluid.

While you have the top arms out, it goes without saying that it's a good idea to replace the knuckle joints, cups and seals and inspect the shafts, grease nipples (important, so don't forget them) and replace the bearings if necessary.

Please add your location too

[Rubbersoul]

Thanks you.