Engine Steady block repair

[mini_surfari]

Morning all,

Looking for some advice, an engine for our latest project has suffered with some heavy handedness. (see poor pictures below).









From what he said, he snapped the bolt off in there, then tried to arc weld a nut on top to remove what was left. But it also looks like he has drilled out on top of this (not convinced the whole bolts out, will have to measure the depth actually). The hole is slightly oblong, and measures 9mm. I was originally going to file off the weld and helicoil back to 5/16. However the drill bit is 8mm so no good, and ideally I don't want it massively oversized.

I'd also like to avoid the minispares repair bracket if I can repair it properly!

So if anyone has any advice as to how they'd tackle it, I'd appreciate it.

Cheers, Oli

[Fanfaniracing]

I would try out a Time Sert UNF insert

But for more successful work i would make this on a Milling machine and not free hand drill thing...

[mk1]

A range of options are available from Minispares.

http://www.minispares.com/search/classi ... epair.aspx

[Peter Laidler]

I'd say that was eminently drill-outable Oli. But I'd say, like Fan-Fan, that it was a milling machine or pillar drill with clamp down facility. Accurately mark out, centre drill to width and drill out with a left handed drill and that will (?) bring the broken stud out.

All the best with it.

[251 ENG]

I have had these holes out to 3/4 unf to remove all the damage.

Them made a custom steel insert to repair back to 5/16 unf

But that is when I have a stripped block on the milling machine

[1071bob]

I've done a couple of these repairs to the stabilizer bolts which had been broken off and drilled thro' into the water jacket, also had a similar problem with the extra head bolt. With some decent jigs and drill bushes I managed to do them in a pillar drill.
That looks like a later block so not sure if the hole centres are the same.

[Fanfaniracing]

I would go exactly the way that Bob suggest!

All the rest is lost time, money and material...

[mk1]

What a lovely repair.

[Peter Laidler]

This query/question arose last year or so, from a Hong Kong forumer - was it Ted Wong? Similar problem AND broke into the water jacket. Ted was in a bit of a fix until....... I know, because I sent him a pack of UNC grub screws and bolts.

So don't give up or despair Oli.

[mini_surfari]

Thanks all,

These sound like good solutions!

[970s]

Hi, it was me who seek assistance form Forum last time, and thanks for Peter who sending me the grub plugs promptly to solve my repair, my engine is in the car now and runs beautifully, no leak or whatever problems!
But my situation is different, it was the forward front hole broke into the water jacket, the thread is fine, so the repair is successful without issue, if it is the rear hole, which support a lot more force from the engine rocking, you really need a sound repair, tap the hole to next size or Helicoil it with engine in car is not advisable, better take motor out from car and do it in machine shop!
That is just my little experience, the more economical way is to fit the engine repair stabilizer kit from Minispare, that kit look solid and is safe to use.

Cheers,
Alfred

[Peter Laidler]

GOOD to hear from you again 970S. Hope that you are well.

[970s]

My rebuilt 1330 S engine runs fine, looks all original with lots of torque from the factory nos 510 cam, twin H4 and Slark Fast road head.
I will enjoy driving it, before I slot in my project 998 Cooper motor with an RE OT13 Cam, built to the hot spec with all old period parts!

Cheers,
Al

[970s]

S motor zip 1330.jpg