2-piece radiator shrouds - Tried and tested modifications?

[Benny]

I've read a lot of hate and discontent on the internet when it comes to the early, 2-piece radiator shrouds, with regards to ease of removal and routine maintenance in that area. I've also seen a laundry list of modifications that people do to make them "easier to remove"...some seem reasonable, and some sound like out-and-out bodges.

Are there tried and tested changes that people tend to make to their shrouds to make them easier to remove at a later date, or is it simply one of those cases where most people don't know the proper approach to removing the shroud in standard form?

[Spider]

Out here (Australia) we only ever had the 2 piece ones, so I can't compare between the two. I have heard all kinds of stories of woe from people who spent days and even weeks getting them in and out. It usually only takes me about 10 - 15 minutes to get one out and about 20 minutes to re-fit.

I think the trick is, to undo the LH Engine mount and jack the engine up first.

It probably goes without saying to make sure (when restoring or repairing a car) to make sure that the cowl is not split or bent / twisted. I also replace all the J or Speed Nuts in the radiator itself as well as fit new screws.

I don't advocate modifying the stock cowling to make them easy (?) to get out as many I have seen done various ways only weaken what is already marginal. I have made a few, from scratch, as a 2 piece affair, but mainly to increase their strength



I jokingly refer to them as Rolls Royce Radiator cowls as like a Roller, they are hand made

[Benny]

Thanks Spider,

What's the story with that lower radiator mount? It looks like you are mid-way through fabbing one from scratch in that pic...any pics of the finished article? Because I bought my car as a rolling shell, I'm missing many of the 'little' bits that are so critical for putting the car together.

I'm currently missing the lower radiator bracket, and just found out that the lower half of my shroud is actually a small-bore unit, so I was planning to fab a custom lower bracket to give me the correct spacing between the bottom of the radiator, and the engine.

[Spider]

Benny,

I have some pics on another PC which I'll post up. Yeah, they are specials that I have made not to make them any easier or harder to remove, only stronger for the serious off-road stuff that we tend to do. That one ^ was one pic I had handy of the last one I did while it was being made.

[mk1]

Separating the cowl is NOT an easy job, but with practice & PATIENCE it is not terrible. I have never used a special technique or adaption on any of my cars & have not had any serious problems apart from the odd grazed finger.

M

[KA2S4]

Separating the cowl is NOT an easy job, but with practice & PATIENCE it is not terrible. I have never used a special technique or adaption on any of my cars & have not had any serious problems apart from the odd grazed finger.

M

Same here.

[Benny]

Thanks guys. So what IS the proper procedure for removing the radiator with a 2-piece cowl?

Remove upper cowl, remove radiator, and leave lower cowl in place for most jobs?

[zippypinhead]

Separating the cowl is NOT an easy job, but with practice & PATIENCE it is not terrible. I have never used a special technique or adaption on any of my cars & have not had any serious problems apart from the odd grazed finger.

M

I would be overjoyed with a grazed finger. Me? I leave blood behind... And, lots of it.

For a while with my '59 FrankeinMini, I swear that every time I would turn to the Haynes Book of Lies, it would state; "First disconnect the battery,refer to chapter three and remove the radiator..."

[Tim]

Its easiest to do it as Spider says. Undo the LHS engine mount and jack the engine up several inches on the LHS. I find it easiest to take out the two short vertical bolts that hold the support bracket to the engine mount but some people take out the long ones that pass through from the front. Once the bolts are undone you can move the lower part of the radiator into the cowling on the inner wing to get it clear of the fan, then up and out of the car - all with the shroud in place.

Tim

[cheleker]

Leave the lower shroud and lower hose in place on the radiator.

[LDR209H]

I'm currently missing the lower radiator bracket, and just found out that the lower half of my shroud is actually a small-bore unit, so I was planning to fab a custom lower bracket to give me the correct spacing between the bottom of the radiator, and the engine.

1071Bob (Bob Davis) will sell you a bracket to convert your small-bore lower shroud to one that will accommodate the larger pulley/damper.
Or if you send him your old one he'll convert it for you (probably not viable if you're in the 'States).

http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread. ... tor+shroud

[Spider]

I did say in one of my earlier posts that the stock cowlings I have found are good and they are quite adequate for most normal road use.

But, when used in some more extreme conditions, this is one of type of breakage that we see (and the broken engine mount didn't have anything to do with this)



and these are a few pics of another Rolls Royce (that is hand made) Cowling that I did, this time for my own car







and fitted up

[Benny]

1071Bob (Bob Davis) will sell you a bracket to convert your small-bore lower shroud to one that will accommodate the larger pulley/damper.
Or if you send him your old one he'll convert it for you (probably not viable if you're in the 'States).

http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread. ... tor+shroud

LDR,

Thanks for the link. Over the weekend, I simply sliced the vertical flange off my lower shroud, and welded it back on in the 'big bore' position. Then I fabricated a lower bracket from a pice of flat plate.....the bracket's actually nowhere near as wavy as it appears in the pic.

If I were to do it again, I'd probably make the lower bracket slightly thicker, bu getting the shape right in 3-D was pretty tricky. If this one gives any trouble, I can fab another one from thicker material now that I've got the pattern.

In all honesty, if I were to do it over again, I'd have made the lower bracket a welded, 2-piece part, as that would have taken a fraction of the time to get the hole spacing right.

[LDR209H]

New Products for December

Somerford Mini




Early Radiator cowlings

Another long awaited part has just been re-made! These new cowlings will replace the old battered and rusty items that we see on many minis in our workshop.

They were fitted to all models from ’59 to ’74 and came in two different types: standard models and Cooper/s. they are powder coated and ready to fit.



Buy Now All models except Cooper & ‘S’ RADCOWL001 £71.77 inc vat

Buy Now Cooper and Cooper ‘S’ RADCOWL002 £71.77 inc vat

[pad4]

I just think its all down to that bit of brakepipe under the rad - if its bent correctky you can easily get spanners in there - if its not the the fun begins

pad

[rogerotto66s]

I just think its all down to that bit of brakepipe under the rad - if its bent correctky you can easily get spanners in there - if its not the the fun begins

Can anyone post the proper bend on the brake pipe which facilitates undoing the rear bolt.
When I replaced my brake line I had no idea there was a “proper” bend.
Here is what mine looks like.

6DEC372E-C29E-4044-AD41-1F32CD70101F.jpeg

[gs.davies]

Mine looks like this.